Main pulley retention bolt
#21
Originally Posted by Duffdog
maita toyota
roseville toyota
reno toyota
magnussens auburn toyota
etc...
including the shop foreman at maita--just like they use corn oil on fuel injectors, not because it says it in the manual, but because it saves time and works ( if you do it right )
T
roseville toyota
reno toyota
magnussens auburn toyota
etc...
including the shop foreman at maita--just like they use corn oil on fuel injectors, not because it says it in the manual, but because it saves time and works ( if you do it right )
T
So do they torque it with a torque wrench after getting back together?
What is their protocol there?
Bamayote, I can't believe that gun didn't move that bolt....maybe not enough air pressure and CFM from your tank? I used to use the 2131 and never had a bolt refuse except a lugnut on a dumptruck (needed a 1" with 1200 ft-lb to move that sucker!). I have done it with hand strength using a 24" chain wrench around the pulley and a ratchet with a 4' pipe extension. Rest the pipe against your chest and pull the chain wrench towards you. It does take alot of arm strength so be forewarned. Anyway, if all else fails sounds like breaker bar and the starter is the preferred option.
#22
OK!!! GOT IT OFF!!! man that was a fight!
i ended up using a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a longer cheater bar. i'd thought about giving up but took one last .... and i mean LAST.... shot at it. for some reason or another it broke and the rest was a breeze.
you've got a great point about the compressor and impact wrench it's an older compressor. in fact, i'm pretty sure my father painted some cars with it when he was in his early 20's. lol. i'm proud to have the IR anyway, i know it'll outlast me!
thanx ya'll.............stay tuned for my next .....screw up, i mean adventure.
cya
brad
i ended up using a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a longer cheater bar. i'd thought about giving up but took one last .... and i mean LAST.... shot at it. for some reason or another it broke and the rest was a breeze.
you've got a great point about the compressor and impact wrench it's an older compressor. in fact, i'm pretty sure my father painted some cars with it when he was in his early 20's. lol. i'm proud to have the IR anyway, i know it'll outlast me!
thanx ya'll.............stay tuned for my next .....screw up, i mean adventure.
cya
brad
#23
[QUOTE=MTL_4runner]Hey, that's cool with me....I've just never heard of dealers doing this.
So do they torque it with a torque wrench after getting back together?
What is their protocol there?
yes they absolutely use a torque wrench-- and some special toyota service tool to hold the pulley. sort of like the bar described, but it fits right on the pulley. They actually sell that tool at the dealer if you have tons of problems removing it.
T
So do they torque it with a torque wrench after getting back together?
What is their protocol there?
yes they absolutely use a torque wrench-- and some special toyota service tool to hold the pulley. sort of like the bar described, but it fits right on the pulley. They actually sell that tool at the dealer if you have tons of problems removing it.
T
#24
If I use the starter to break the nut loose, the engine will obviously not be at TDC. I'm removing my timing belt and need to be sure it's at TDC when I put it back on. What's the best way to get it there when reassembling? Use the camshaft to do it before I remove the belt? Is there a better way?
#25
Use the starter to do the breaking loose.
Don't remove the bolt, use it to turn the engine over to TDC (have the plugs out = no compression resistance). Since the bolt is not TIGHT, it should back off easily now tobe removed
Don't remove the bolt, use it to turn the engine over to TDC (have the plugs out = no compression resistance). Since the bolt is not TIGHT, it should back off easily now tobe removed
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