SORRY GUYS... very long but i need confirmation/advice

Well.... I got the head off, and it tested good, the machine shop Bay Area Cylinder Head out in East Oakland came recommended through mechanic friends as being reputable and cheap. So I want to run the game plan by everyone. Please add things if I leave parts out.

from a couple sources, people say use new head bolts, FSM doesnt specify, and ARP studs are out of the question, i am poor -- have also heard that the old ones are fine as long as i clean out there holes and torque them properly

what about threadlocker? im anal, and use threadlocker a lot, red loctite... however should i leave the tube in hte box for this project?

Things to get before I dive in:

*Cylinder Hone/Wire Brush
*Flex Torque wrench, with the needle type for those 14 ft/lb applications ~ have a larger scale torque wrench click-type for the head bolts, etc (big stuff)
*"Liquid Sealant" - Reffered to in Toyota FSM ~ Not sure on what kind of sealant? RTV? or?
*box of carb cleaner for cleanup purposes
*razor blades, gasket remover/scraper
*new coolant
*new oil and filter
*long brush to clean out long skinny tubes of some sort that are gunked up with oily crud and attached to manifolds (probably part of the emissions system)
*timing light
*new spark plugs with antiseize and dielectric boot grease


also, my coolant system has rust chunks in hte radiator... so what should i do about those? after its running im planing on taking it somewhere to get cleaned out, but not sure what to ask for (rodded out?) or cleaner flush? or.... and what can i do to minimize the rust? distilled water not tap water.... etc? i dont wnat my truck to ever come close to overheating again... so im just super anal retentive now and paranoid

i will drive it less hard and try to keep the engine happy and not live in the upper rpm band....

got the head refurbished/rebuilt... new seals, valve job, etc..... and full gasket kit from toyota

will need to set timing after being done, and redo valve clearances befroe i fire it up... will also need to do valve clearances in a week and retorque head at that time pending everything else goes well......

SOUND GOOD TO EVERY ONE?

 

I used this on my 3.0 and have had 0 leak problems. It was also recomended by the local engine builder as a good product. I used it everywhere that the FSM called for "Seal packing" or "Form in place gasket" (FIPG). I bought it in a small caulking gun but like any sealant its hard to get the container usable again after you let it sit overnight.

http://www.permatex.com/auto/autouh....&item_no=25223




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hmmm... not sure if that is what im looking for, there actually is a gasket there.... but the fsm says to place a small dab of liquid sealer in certain spots.... and not the whole gasket size... just a couple of choice areas and only spots....

 

go to 4craweler.com roger browns site he has all you questions answered already. there a link for the ad section on this site

 

huh? dont understand this part

 

Seeing your list included a cyl. hone,i'm assumeing your doing your rings,right ?

 

"huh? dont understand this part"
there is a link in the ad section on this site. venders on the web page. my typo long day for me

 

i am not doing the reings... i was talking to a mechanic last night on aim and he told me that it wasnt needed becuase ou can do it with old rings, but there special angles sand stuff you need and told me unless thought i could get the angles that i should just clean everything up with cleaner and wipe down... so i will not be honing the walls...

 

There is nothing you need loctite for on a head install on the 22r/re. Red loctite will sieze those bolts in there good and you'll hate yourself if you ever need to get them out. I have reused my head bolts numerous times with no problems. Clean, clean, clean everything. I've used some spray on gasket remover for stubborn spots. Make sure you torque everything to spec. and it will all be fine. The only places you need FIPG is under the head gasket where the timing chain cover meets the block, and one of the oil pump housing bolts. A little dab'l do ya'. I've used black RTV with complete success on 4 different occasions. I assume you have the timing cover off, if not, disregard the oil pump bolt. I think one of the EGR bolts goes through and needs a dab as well. Don't listen to anyone that says you need any type of extra sealant on ANY gaskets, including the head gasket. Toyota designed the gaskets to seal on a dry, clean surface. I have used a tiny bit of silicone here and there to hold the intake mainfold and timing cover gaskets in place for assembly, very little smears away from ports and oil passages.