idler arm and ball joints
#1
idler arm and ball joints
I went to get the old alignment done today and they called me back saying that I needed a new idler arm and ball joints and it would only cost $600 :pat: . Well I figure I can get the parts for a couple hundred bucks and try to do the work myself. So my real question is how easy/hard will this be and does anybody know of a writeup that may help. Thanks in advance.
------Steve
------Steve
#2
How many miles do you have? I've never had balljoints go bad and I've owned my toys for many years(all over 200,00mi). I replaced my friends '89 idler at 213,000 miles. Did they show you all the play in them? Idler easy to replace, thou. Couldn't answer how easy BJ are since I never done them.
#6
Originally Posted by 95red4runner
how did you rebuild your idler arm?
the other option is to go out and spend about $120 on an idler that comes with a lifetime warranty. if it breaks, bring it in and get a new one - no questions asked.
Last edited by Brendan; May 4, 2004 at 08:22 PM.
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#8
Having replaced the balljoints and idler arm on both Toyotas I've owned, I've thought of the front end as being a weak area. Replacing the idler arm bushings is easy, you don't actually have to remove the idler arm stud from the steering link. However, the joint at that end can also wear out and then there's no choice except replace the whole unit with another overpriced chunk of steel.
Replacing ball joints is fairly straightforward technically but can be a pain depending on how much persuasion the taper stud needs to come loose. You'll need a C-puller, or pickle fork, or BFH. But really, other than that it's quite simple. You don't, contrary to the fact. manual, _have to_ remove the entire steering hub (though would give you more room). Searching should get you a list of instructions.
Personally, I'd do both - you might as well. I did this a few months back, this time I used aftermarket parts; came in half the price of toyota ones.
ed
Replacing ball joints is fairly straightforward technically but can be a pain depending on how much persuasion the taper stud needs to come loose. You'll need a C-puller, or pickle fork, or BFH. But really, other than that it's quite simple. You don't, contrary to the fact. manual, _have to_ remove the entire steering hub (though would give you more room). Searching should get you a list of instructions.
Personally, I'd do both - you might as well. I did this a few months back, this time I used aftermarket parts; came in half the price of toyota ones.
ed
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