I hereby declare the Addco sway bar to be...
#21
Originally Posted by RoySharif
How about the electrically actuating disconnects with solenoids? Is there somebody out there making them for the 3rd gens? The JDM Isuzu Bighorn (Trooper) and JDM Nissan Patrol are equipped with this one. Just by the push of a button, the stabilizer bars are diconnected.
#22
If you understand the Currie Anti-Rock bar, you will understand where I'm heading. Why did I get a notice when I un-subscribed?
Straight axle trucks should disconnect sway bars as the Dodge Power Wagon. Same as the JDM stuff. With IFS you head in a different direction.
Use the phone. Signed off.
Straight axle trucks should disconnect sway bars as the Dodge Power Wagon. Same as the JDM stuff. With IFS you head in a different direction.
Use the phone. Signed off.
#23
Originally Posted by sschaefer3
If you understand the Currie Anti-Rock bar, you will understand where I'm heading. Why did I get a notice when I un-subscribed?
Straight axle trucks should disconnect sway bars as the Dodge Power Wagon. Same as the JDM stuff. With IFS you head in a different direction.
Use the phone. Signed off.
Straight axle trucks should disconnect sway bars as the Dodge Power Wagon. Same as the JDM stuff. With IFS you head in a different direction.
Use the phone. Signed off.
#24
steve and i have discussed this issue quite a bit. i've wheeled both. when disco'd, the front feels softer on off camber stuff, and it is. however, that's not always a good thing, and like i've learned, just because it will droop doesn't mean that it does you any good as far as traction is concerned. all the weight is on the stuffed tire, and that's where the traction is. a tire that's drooped an extra two inches and is just barely touching the ground isn't doing anything for you anyway. it makes for some good pics of extreme IFS travel, but that's about it.
steve and i have discussed sway bars pretty heavily in the last week or so and we've both had a couple of epiphanys that have "opened our eyes" to some of the design problems that we've seen.
i think he's on a good track to having a replacement bar that you don't have to disconnect when going offroad. however, my disco's also work just fine for now - but i leave them connected. there are a couple things that i have discovered that i think would make them work a little better when connected and used offroad, but overall, i think they're a good upgrade over stock. not everybody will want to drop the bucks for the replacement sway bar - it's not going to be cheap - just like not everyone want's to drop the bucks on a front locker or good offroad tires even though they make a tremendous difference offroad.
steve and i have discussed sway bars pretty heavily in the last week or so and we've both had a couple of epiphanys that have "opened our eyes" to some of the design problems that we've seen.
i think he's on a good track to having a replacement bar that you don't have to disconnect when going offroad. however, my disco's also work just fine for now - but i leave them connected. there are a couple things that i have discovered that i think would make them work a little better when connected and used offroad, but overall, i think they're a good upgrade over stock. not everybody will want to drop the bucks for the replacement sway bar - it's not going to be cheap - just like not everyone want's to drop the bucks on a front locker or good offroad tires even though they make a tremendous difference offroad.
Last edited by bamachem; May 23, 2006 at 03:27 AM.
#25
Originally Posted by sschaefer3
If you understand the Currie Anti-Rock bar, you will understand where I'm heading. Why did I get a notice when I un-subscribed?
Straight axle trucks should disconnect sway bars as the Dodge Power Wagon. Same as the JDM stuff. With IFS you head in a different direction.
Use the phone. Signed off.
Straight axle trucks should disconnect sway bars as the Dodge Power Wagon. Same as the JDM stuff. With IFS you head in a different direction.
Use the phone. Signed off.
Last edited by MTL_4runner; May 23, 2006 at 04:43 AM.
#26
I think we have two totally different lines of thought going on in this thread here. One group is talking about hard core offroad and why using discos are bad and the other side is more looking to improve onroad performance. If you are looking to improve on-road performance, the Currie Anti-Rock bar will still not help you because you will have more body roll than stock (unless the torsion bar is as stiff as the stock bar and in that case, why would you even bother changing it out!?) For on-road handling performance, the Addco bar is still the best bang for the buck. If you are into offroad enough to sacrifice some on-road performance then wait for Steve's rock bar.
#28
no. what it does is links the two coil springs together. when you put all your weight on one tire, it will compress the spring on that side. since the lower arms are connected to a bar that can be twisted (torqued), the sway bar then imparts some of it's torque resistance to the spring on the opposite side to try to push it up. a sway bar is good for maybe 100 to 150#/in of resistive force (applied as torque when the front wheels want to go in the opposite direction up-down). the front springs (tundra trd) are about 350#/in in the "weak" zone and then go to around 500#/in in the "stiff zone" the sway bar doesn't impact their travel all that much when compressed to the "stiff zone". however, when in the "weak zone" it can and will limit travel as the force exerted by the sway bar begins to "catch up" with the amount of force (in the opposite direction) imparted on the lower arm by the coil spring.
where you get into trouble offroad w/ a front locker on IFS and OME shocks isn't when you have one tire stuffed and one drooped (and the sway bar is connected) cause you are partially limiting down travel on the drooped side. however, w/ OME coils that are a single rate, you can overextend them easier, but it's still difficult. w/ the sway bar detached, you're going to overextend them pretty quickly. in my situation, i had the sway bar attached, but i was climbing a ledge with both fronts extended outward over the top of the ledge. the sway bar does nothing in that situation since both are drooped to full max travel. that's what killed my CV's on slickrock.
i agree that this thread was initially about on-road performance. then it drifted to sway bar end links, then to a custom offroad bar. somewhere in the middle was an almost-pissing-contest over the effectiveness of the current design of custom endlinks.
where you get into trouble offroad w/ a front locker on IFS and OME shocks isn't when you have one tire stuffed and one drooped (and the sway bar is connected) cause you are partially limiting down travel on the drooped side. however, w/ OME coils that are a single rate, you can overextend them easier, but it's still difficult. w/ the sway bar detached, you're going to overextend them pretty quickly. in my situation, i had the sway bar attached, but i was climbing a ledge with both fronts extended outward over the top of the ledge. the sway bar does nothing in that situation since both are drooped to full max travel. that's what killed my CV's on slickrock.
i agree that this thread was initially about on-road performance. then it drifted to sway bar end links, then to a custom offroad bar. somewhere in the middle was an almost-pissing-contest over the effectiveness of the current design of custom endlinks.
Last edited by bamachem; May 23, 2006 at 05:16 AM.
#29
Originally Posted by bamachem
no. what it does is links the two coil springs together. when you put all your weight on one tire, it will compress the spring on that side. since the lower arms are connected to a bar that can be twisted (torqued), the sway bar then imparts some of it's torque resistance to the spring on the opposite side to try to push it up. a sway bar is good for maybe 100 to 150#/in of resistive force (applied as torque when the front wheels want to go in the opposite direction up-down). the front springs (tundra trd) are about 350#/in in the "weak" zone and then go to around 500#/in in the "stiff zone" the sway bar doesn't impact their travel all that much when compressed to the "stiff zone". however, when in the "weak zone" it can and will limit travel as the force exerted by the sway bar begins to "catch up" with the amount of force (in the opposite direction) imparted on the lower arm by the coil spring.
where you get into trouble offroad w/ a front locker on IFS and OME shocks isn't when you have one tire stuffed and one drooped (and the sway bar is connected) cause you are partially limiting down travel on the drooped side. however, w/ OME coils that are a single rate, you can overextend them easier, but it's still difficult. w/ the sway bar detached, you're going to overextend them pretty quickly. in my situation, i had the sway bar attached, but i was climbing a ledge with both fronts extended outward over the top of the ledge. the sway bar does nothing in that situation since both are drooped to full max travel. that's what killed my CV's on slickrock.
i agree that this thread was initially about on-road performance. then it drifted to sway bar end links, then to a custom offroad bar. somewhere in the middle was an almost-pissing-contest over the effectiveness of the current design of custom endlinks.
where you get into trouble offroad w/ a front locker on IFS and OME shocks isn't when you have one tire stuffed and one drooped (and the sway bar is connected) cause you are partially limiting down travel on the drooped side. however, w/ OME coils that are a single rate, you can overextend them easier, but it's still difficult. w/ the sway bar detached, you're going to overextend them pretty quickly. in my situation, i had the sway bar attached, but i was climbing a ledge with both fronts extended outward over the top of the ledge. the sway bar does nothing in that situation since both are drooped to full max travel. that's what killed my CV's on slickrock.
i agree that this thread was initially about on-road performance. then it drifted to sway bar end links, then to a custom offroad bar. somewhere in the middle was an almost-pissing-contest over the effectiveness of the current design of custom endlinks.
Thanks for all the info. I did say the current Addco end links are cheesy but that was it.
For most folks, we want the lift to accomodate bigger tires but the road manners of the truck suffer drastically with that. And, many of the folks here really, to be fair (and I am one of them), would like a truck with enhanced off road capability, should we need it but are not wheeling very weekend.
So, we end up with the big compromise.
The current GX-470 has an option with very trick adjustable rate sway bars that would be something that would really help folks in my situation. I think Steve's product is clealry aimed at making the sway bar potientially help off road performance as opposed to hindering. Both are great for what they are designed for but are looking at different objectives.
Personally, I like my Addco, I still have some NUKE's and as I think they are stonger than the chessy Addco piece, I will use them for now. I actually made some extended stock style for my 99 with a 2" lift and an Addco andf they lasted about a month ...
Thanks again for all of your input.
David
#31
Originally Posted by DoubleZero4x4
Interesting thread this is turning out to be. Anyone out there (without a lift) reccommend this mod for my rig (not lifted)?
#34
Originally Posted by RTdawgs
What modifications to Nuke or WabFab discos need to be made to use an Addco bar?
Its just I went through one set of modifed stock links, one set of NUKE's and I was on my second as the forces created must be much higher as the Addco is that much more torsionally stiff.
I alos broke my first bracket that you use that comes with the stock Addco end link.
I may try and make some bullet proof but longer than non disconnecting stock links using nice chrome moly rod ends and some stainless bar stock.
The issue is that a longer link and a stiffer bar equals much higher forces so its not unreasonable things would break.
David
David
#35
I might be alone on this one, but why would you go through all the expense and trouble of sway bar disconnects when a 14 mil wrench and 10 minutes is all it took to disconnect mine this weekend, and the same to hook it back up. I have found that disconnecting the swaybar and removing the lower portion of the cone shaped bumpstops in the center of the rear coils has improved the handling of the truck in a huge way on rough logging roads at speed and improves articulation front and rear for the slow stuff. I am running stock height coils though, so my experience may be different from those with lifts. It wasn't the lack of traction or articulation that slowed me down this weekend it was dragging the gas tank. Poorly placed, but now I'm really off topic.
#37
Sorry nrgetic99 for stealing your thread, but while we are on the topic I have a question. How come if steve says discos are a good idea for a straight axle trucks does Wab or Steve not make discos for the rear of a 4Runner? Does the stock sway bar not offer enough force to affect flex?
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