95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

How to Lift Body when Sliders already present

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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 06:05 AM
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How to Lift Body when Sliders already present

I'm trying to do this body lift, and in the instructions it says to use a Hi lift jack in conjunction with a block of wood. Well my sliders are already on, I don't think I can get the Hi-lift that close to the body to lift it off properly.

Should I get one of the hydraulic jacks, and stack some wood on there, and try it that way?

Any other suggestions would be appreciated
thanks

Last edited by sdastg1; Mar 21, 2004 at 06:06 AM.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 06:52 AM
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From: Mooresville (Lake Norman) NC
Originally Posted by sdastg1
Should I get one of the hydraulic jacks, and stack some wood on there, and try it that way?
that would work just fine
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 07:05 AM
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I was able to place a bottle jack with a peice of wood on top on the tire to lift the body enough to get the pucks in.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 07:06 AM
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Originally Posted by sdastg1
Should I get one of the hydraulic jacks, and stack some wood on there, and try it that way?
That's what I plan on doing, except I have to drill holes in the frame for the aux. body mounts as well.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 07:08 AM
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I used the stock bottle jack and a black of wood. Just make sure what ever you put the bottle jack on is strong enough to hold your truck. We tryed some boards on top of a spare tire. The weight broke right thur the boards.

hope it helps.

pretty easy.

I think I hi lift would not work very good with or with out sliders. Unless you dont care about denting you body.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 07:08 AM
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Thanks guys. Sears opens in an hour so I'll go get it then, and get started.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 07:24 AM
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correct me if i'm wrong guys, but wont a BL w/ an already welded on slider not look that great b/c now the body will be higher than the sliders? i imagine if looks are not a big concern, then no problem.

bob
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 07:28 AM
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It might. But the only reason I'm doing the body lift now is so that I can order the correct size rear bumper from steve now. As soon as these tires wear down, I want to run 35" tires. Hence the need for the BL.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 07:33 AM
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You can also use a floor jack and wooden blocking:

http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...l#Installation

The sliders can be cut off and re-welded up higher once the lift is installed.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 07:38 AM
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From: Ann Arbor, MI
Originally Posted by Bob_98SR5
correct me if i'm wrong guys, but wont a BL w/ an already welded on slider not look that great b/c now the body will be higher than the sliders? i imagine if looks are not a big concern, then no problem.

bob
Except for my case the reason for putting on the BL is because the sliders are too high
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 07:43 AM
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we put some 4x4s in between the sliders and used a floor jack.

IMO, sliders look better when theres some room between the body and the sliders. my buddy runs a 2" body and he got his sliders built so that there was about 2" between the sliders and the body and they look great!
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 07:48 AM
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correct me if I'm wrong here. The sliders are welded to the frame. I need to loosen the bolts between the frame and the body, and then lift the body off of the frame. How would I be able to lift the frame by placing boards under the sliders and lifting from there?
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 07:53 AM
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Originally Posted by sdastg1
correct me if I'm wrong here. The sliders are welded to the frame. I need to loosen the bolts between the frame and the body, and then lift the body off of the frame. How would I be able to lift the frame by placing boards under the sliders and lifting from there?
Put the boards above the sliders (I just slid them in) and use a hydralic jack (or your stock spare jack). I used some blocks to get the jack up high enough. It's pretty simple once you get going. I just did the 1" BL last week.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by sdastg1
correct me if I'm wrong here. The sliders are welded to the frame. I need to loosen the bolts between the frame and the body, and then lift the body off of the frame. How would I be able to lift the frame by placing boards under the sliders and lifting from there?
put the boards below the frame, not the sliders.

see Jim's post...
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 08:15 AM
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Originally Posted by 4runner4me
I used the stock bottle jack and a black of wood. Just make sure what ever you put the bottle jack on is strong enough to hold your truck. We tryed some boards on top of a spare tire. The weight broke right thur the boards.

hope it helps.

pretty easy.

I think I hi lift would not work very good with or with out sliders. Unless you dont care about denting you body.

i used a hi-lift when putting on my lift, thought it'd be just fine. we used towels to protect the body, but still the process left a very slight dent in the driver's door from the hi-lift touching the body. not a big deal tho, it's out now. so if you're going to use a hi-lift anyone, just be very careful about it.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 08:39 AM
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ok just picked up a 3 ton hydraulic jack from sears for $50, and a 122 pc tool set for $80.

Let me eat something and I'll get started and post here as I go along
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 09:40 AM
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k where is this steering shaft clamp or rag joint that I'm supposed to loosen and then later on insert the extension into?

I looked at the pic in the 4crawler site, but I can't figure out where under the truck I am.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 09:49 AM
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The rag joint should be at the steering rack end of the shaft. There may be a plastiv boot covering that area, if so slide it up and out of the way. The clamp is at the top end of the shaft, where it passes through the firewall.
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 10:02 AM
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Is this it right here?

click here
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Old Mar 21, 2004 | 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by sdastg1
Is this it right here?

click here
Yep, that's the rubber rag joint and the clamp, looks like your clamp is on the same end as the rag joint, some are on the opposite end. Remove the two short bolts (not the pressed in studs) and slip the spacer in over the stud ends and install the new longer bolts. Adjust the length with the splined clamp and tighten it all down.
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