I probably don't have to worry about this for a while, but really how hard is it to change a clutch at home. I have basic tools (excepting open ended wrenches, which I assume I shall need too), I have a floor jack and jackstands. So what all is there to it....can I realistically do this in my driveway?

 

You have to pull the tranny. You would need a tranny jackstand or a buddy undernieth whos not afraid to get a tranny dropped on him.. After the tranny is out. Its pretty straight forward. Pull the clutch and pressure plate. Install the new ones. You would need a clutch alignment tool. The tool aligns the splines on the clutch with the splines on the tranny. I think its a pretty easy job but can be time consuming and the tranny and transfer case are bloody heavy.It can be tricky getting the tranny to slide back up to the motor properly. It can be done in a day. I think if your wrenching abilities are pretty good you can do it.
I pulled the tranny on my 84 xtra cab diesel 4x4 in my driveway by myself with no jackstand. I slid a 2x4 through each door window and hoisted the tranny with a rope. It worked pretty good. I wouldnt recommend doing this if you have a nice truck.

 

hmmm, a day? With no air tools? It's pretty tough, You also need a long extension to get to some bolts, and you need to take several frame brackets off to get the tranny out. It took me 3 hours with 3 guys, a hydrolic lift, and pnuematic tools...

 

im almost the exact same as gabe. It took me three days with 3 guys and neumatic tools. Also the clutch allignment tool comes with most clutch kits nowadays. Some bolts were hard to get to and some are really tight(broke some sockets) and we didnt have to use a tranny jack we just got a car jack and some boards.

 

Yea. An 84 diesel may be quite a bit simpler than a new rig. I did it in a day with no air tools. One cross brace.

 

I've done it in less than 8 hours in a garage with minimal tools. Took two days only because the owner had to take the flywheel in for resurfacing and no-one was open at 11pm on Sunday night. Go figure. It definately takes longer to install than remove. Clutches are certainly a "practice-makes-perfect" item though. I've done dozens over the years to get my time down.

 

Actually, it should only take a day to do... When I added my Dual case it took me 6 hours to do all the mods and install. While the transfer case was off, I was debating on pulling the trans to check my clutch. If I were to pull the trans in the future I'd most likely pull the transfer cases off first, that way the trans will be lighter and much easier to manage. I usually lay down on my dolly and pull the trans and lower it on my body then I just roll out from underneath with it on top of me. When I reinstall the clutch I never use those alignment tools, I start the bolts into the pressure plate and then look down the center of the splines, eyeing in the plate by hand, then slowly tighten the bolts down.

Even though I have plenty of air tools, I still like taking my time and wrenching by hand. If i'm in a rush I'll break out my air ratchet or 3/8 butterfly.

 

OK, I can't say as I would do either of these things.

1) If you don't have a lift, be careful the trans does not fall on you using this method.
I suggest to rent a tranny jack, especially if you are working alone.

2) I always use a clutch tool.....just not smart to eyeball it.
The tool is cheap and will save you a ton of headache when lining things up for the install.

 

You can do it in a day, but give yourself a weekend so you're not rushed. If you wish to have the flywheel turned, factor that time in as well.

The transmission alone can easily be dropped and lifted from your chest. However, the transfer case makes this very difficult due to the increased weight, and the way it sits off to the side. I've not done a 4x4, but I tend to agree with those that suggest removing the transfer case and then removing the gearbox is a good way to do it, especially if you're doing it yourself.

Toyota uses a sealed bearing as the pilot bearing in the crankshaft. This means the transmission input shaft tends to rust in place, requiring some enthusiastic yanking to get it to break free and slide out. This is where you end up dropping the transmission, as it suddenly comes flying backwards. Have something for it to fall on, as dropping it a foot down onto a concrete driveway can break the case.

Big mistake people habitually make is leaving the tranny hanging from the input shaft. That tends to damage the seal and may damage the bearings. You don't want to make the gearbox leak or worse fail completely. So don't hang it from the input shaft.

Clutch alignment tools merely center the clutch disc so the hole lines up with the hole in the crankshaft. You don't need to use this tool, but it's convenient. Invariably, the splines on the input shaft will not slip through the clutch disc, requiring some rotating of the gearbox or crankshaft to make them slide through.

Because of that pilot bearing design, it's often a tight fit getting the transmission input shaft through the pilot bearing. You will probably have to use the bolts to pull it down. That's fine, but do so uniformly around the bell housing, and don't go buck wild in the process. You can break a bell housing, and that's not fun.

It's not a complex job, just a heavy job with big pieces. You will get things in your eyes and ears. There will be some blood involved.

 

Quote...There will be some blood involved...

LOL.....When isnt there. If theres no blood, you didnt do anything.

 

It's a one day job if you start early. Trust me leave the transfer case attached and buy off a friend to help you out. It's better if you do it in one day just so you remember where everything goes back(all the nuts and bolts). You will need two jacks so you can hold the tranny in the middle until you drop the crossmember then put one jack on the tranny mount and you can support the front with your hands(very light). The hard part is putting it back in, it takes twice as long to put it back in as pulling it out. Also the other big pain is putting the starter back in, be surre to take off passenger front tire and support the vehicle at the front right next to the tow hook! You need the room to move around.

 

I have done two clutches. One on a 95 Civic SI and one on a Mazda truck. As long as I can afford to have the dealer do it, I will not do it again. I hate working on my back with heavy objects. I do recommend doing it for the experience though. Oh, and be sure to have the FSM handy, especially for your first time.

 

I guess if your not strong enough to handle about 50 to 75lb trans, then you'd better not try and use your body as a jack. I've just always found it easier to remove and especially installing the trans this way. If you've done as many clutch replacements as I have, you'll find that the alignment tool is not needed and is just as fast without.

 

With practice a clutch tool is not required. I've done few without one with no problems. I've also done a few where they were a PITA because it would not line up. Given the choice, if a kit comes with a tool, I'll use it. If not, I eyeball it and cross my fingers.

As far as benchpressing the tranny, not unless I have to. A single t-case is no problem, do that all the time. I don't think I'll be doing it now with duals though. A cast aluminum tranny probably isn't much different. OTOH, my tranny is a chunk of cast iron and weighs in at 150 lbs. (not including bellhousing). Not gonna happen.

 

Bear in mind my truck is only a 1981 2WD SR5. So does this mean the tranny should be light enough for me to handle? I will have to probably do the job alone, and I do not have access to air tools. Can it be done with basic set of sockets and a torque wrench?

 

Yes! Just get under there and do it.

 

A 2wd is a breeze. The tranny wont be very heavy.Go for it. No air tools required. I would get a set of box end/open end wrenches.(metric) Sockets probably wont get the job done.

 

Well fortunately it doesn't need to be done right away, because #1 I am poor, and #2 I need to buy a wrench set. I am actually not sure when it needs to be done, I was just going by the fact some other guy in some other post said that because my tranny sometimes grinds when I try to shift that the clutch is going. I have since found that this is mostly only when I try to shift into first when I am going too fast, whicjh I am also told is a no no. Good to know that I could do it if the need does arise.

 

If it is your first clutch figure 2 days. I did mine in a day. 6 hrs on a Fri - drop the flywheel off for resurface- and put it back together Sat morning. I didn't use air tools but I had a big breaker bar on the end of the socket to get those super tight bolts loose (especially the driveshaft bolts). Get familiar with the undercarriage of your truck long before you get under it to start. I put a regular floor jack under the transfer case and then used a chain and rope to secure it. Then I only had to guide the front down. You will probably have to rotate the whole tranny towards the driver side to get the bellhousing to clear the obstructions that jump up when you are trying to pull the tranny back - exhaust usually.

 

He's right, don't try and downshift into first that often. I usually only downshift into first, when I'm at a complete stop, while driving on the streets. Second gear is all you'll usually need, first gear seems to want to "grind" when attempting this. It just sound like your not use to driving a stick yet, your clutch is probably just fine.