TRDrunner

hey, ive got a small hole in my passenger side outer CV boot.

there is a small amount of grease on the boot and it has been this way for a while.

i just did the SS #1 lift with the diff drop.

angles are pretty good, but when i turn right i hear a kind of rubbing or grinding noise.

and whenever it does i can feel something in the floorboard.

would it have to do with the diff bolts not tigntened all the way?

thanks for the help.

Gerdo

I would replace the CV boot ASAP before too much road grime and water get in. Some of the split boots work well and you don't have to dissassemble anything. I would give this a try first. Now if you are feeling a clunking while turrning hard either direction then the CV is bad. (In a parking lot turn hard one direction and give it gas, turn the other direction and give it gas. Do this in 2wd and 4wd)

Jdizzydub

Boot replacement kit from toyota $40..haven't done it yet, got clamps holding mine together. I read that it was easy, but super messy. the kit comes with the proper grease too. good luck

TRDrunner

where can i buy the boot replacement kit at?

Fink

I'm not sure I'd call it easy...you have to pull the entire unit apart.

Fink

TRDrunner

so id need to replace the WHOLE cv?

Fink

No but in order to get the boot on you have to pull the half-shaft out.

Fink

TRDrunner

okay.

is the grinding noise the lack of grease inside or what.

Fink

That I don't know.

Is it only at full lock?

Fink

rngrchad

It's threads like these that make me greateful to have lockouts. 3 out of 4 of my cv boots are completely ripped. I've been running my ripped cv's for a solid year now and have no issues because of the ability to unlock my hubs. I feel real sorry for you all who have add. Thats really too bad

YotaJunky

I think changing out the whole CV axle would be a less painfful solution rather than just changing the boot. Perhaps you could call around and ask how much it costs for a whole half shaft. I paid $75 + core for a Tercel half shaft and the boot itself cost $25.

Troy

Gerdo

Like I said, a split boot isn't great but sometimes they can last a few years. You just have to be careful when installing them as to not get grease in the seams of the boot. You don't have to disassemble anything, removing the wheel usualy helps. All you do is cut off the bad boot, squeeze new grease into the CV, install the split boot, install the clamps. Some boots glue together and some have small bolts. I installed a glue type, from Checker Auto, on a Trooper a couple of months ago and no sign of leaks.

Jdizzydub

that is true to what I was saying..the thread I read on changing the whole half shaft seemed extensive, but nothing too series the problem for me is I hadn't found a replacement cv for less than $400.

Yes you have to take out the cv to replace the boot so it does become messy packing grease, and does take time.

My bad on saying it was easy, it is quite the job for a six pack...I'd just rather pack grease than shell out the 4 hundo. But I just ended up using two hose clamps to hold mine back in place.

I don't know about holes though...duct tape??

and trdparts4u might be a cheap place to pick one up, boot replacement kits are available at any stealership near you.

YotaJunky

I tried duct tape myself and it didn't last long. How about patching it up with something like windoweld? It's essentially rubber in a tube and is typically used to seal windows. I also used it to fix a bad motor mount for my Celica.

Troy

Jdizzydub

Sounds like a plan..my only concern and I'm not sure but what if the stuff got into the boot??

YotaJunky

That would be a concern if it mashed up the gears. I don't know how pieces of rubber would impact the gears. Another option is using a slit boot and wrapping it around the existing torn boot and then use windoweld as a bonding agent to glue the two boots together. If the boots were offset, that may prevent any urethane from getting into the gears. It may be worth a try as it is a cheaper solution and wouldn't require removal of the half shaft.

Also, if you go this route, make sure the rubber surfaces are cleaned thoroughly, otherwise the windoweld may not stick.

Troy

YotaJunky

Hey guys. Check this out.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114749

Troy

toy_tek

In my experience, a split boot is a crappy solution. For the amount of work you're doing, and the "chance" that you might get it right, I think you're better off fixing it the right way.

Yeah its messy, but removing the shaft and replacing the boots with OEM is probably the best thing to do. This way you can inspect the bearings and shaft condition when you have it out. Replace both boots while you're at it and you're good for another 150k miles (or so).

From what I have seen, rebuilt/aftermarket shafts tend to be cheap and use cheap rubber for the boots.

TRDrunner

today i was driving and its only squeaks really at like 5-15 mph even when im going straight sometimes.

and it feels like something is hitting my floorboard and clunking when i drive over bumps offroad.

i havnt gotten an alignment yet after the lift.

would that cause anyproblems?

toy_tek

In your first post are you talking about the diff drop bolts? Make sure they are tightened to spec (80 ftlbs?) i can't recall but its pretty tight.

Are you sure the noise you're hearing isnt the tires hitting the frame when turning? I have 285 A/T's and they rub.

Also, the steering rack (as mentioned) will make some noise if the bushings haven't been replaced.

You could jack up the front, turn the steering wheel to one direction, and turn tires. Then get underneath and inspect the CV joints while spinning each tire to see if you're getting any noise. Then turn the steering wheel the opposite direction and repeat for both tires. If they're shot, you'll get some noise, or it will feel rough.