I just broke another and my cam sprocket tool. DAMMIT! :wtf:

 

Oh geesh.. I have been there!! First, yes, they have to come off, that plate timimg cover behind them must come off, and the only way to do that is to pull the sprockets. There is a spot to place a wrench on the cam (scarey as hell, but it is there..) JUST DO NOT USE THE SIDE OF THE HEAD TO STOP THE WRENCH!! If you do, you will most likey snap a chunk of the head off. The SST is nice if you can get it, but I could not get the dealer to get me one for 3-6 weeks! If you try a chain wrench on the pully, use the old t-belt as a "protector sleve" over the pully and make sure you file any burs. To be honest, I had a friend holding the cam with a wrench, a 1000ftlb 1/2 torque wrench fed by a real shop compressor... and it would not budge!! We ended up having to use a set of torches to heat it up!! (I was relived that these were not the heads being reused, but it should not hurt it if you are careful and only head the center point of the head of the bolt to keep heat at a min. A brazing tip is best used.

I have been into mine 3 times in the last 2 years and gearing up for a 4th soon... Damn heads. Never grind the valves!! Replace them!! They get too thin, ask how I know this.. :pat:

 

well, How do you know this? About the valves that is.
Well, I was able to remove the cam with the sprocket still on it. I'll figure out how to get it off later. Have you had many head gasket problems? I will be investing in the $250 wonder studs from DOA. I NEVER want to do this again.
Ohh, I'll be reusing the heads, but I will probably be getting the works done to them.

 

Well, I have personaly never had a gasket blow.. But 2 years ago at 120k I have a exhause valve burn.. So (short version) I had a set of heads built, they lost compression after 3k (I had a spare motor) so spare heads got sent to a shop (diffrent) with instructions of "I don't care how much or how long.. I want perfection. I never want to do this again!" 3k later, they leak.. I give the truck to the shop and tell them.. Now you fix it!! So he was good and even though I put the heads on, he tor it apart and re-shimed the valves for free.. and three more times all about 3k later.. Now I am working on head #3.. It is being built right now (in fact, I have to call that slacker) What he have found it that the exhaust valve it pretty large and thin. Thus being prone to "tulip" over time allowing the valve to be slightly open cold, giving it low compression and a rough idle on that valve. The last 3 times, it has only been one head, and one valve.. But it is enough.. I am having him install new exhaust valves in this head..

As far as removing the cam with the sprocket still on it, can you put it back in like that?? If so, just take the cam cover off, put the cam back on and do any head work and re-install it the same way.. The cam must be off to remove the heads anyway..

Do you have the pattern & torque specs for the head bolts & cam caps?? I can give you the ones out of either a 92 or 93 FSM.. ( they will all be the same anyway..

 

http://community.webshots.com/user/darkronin619

I just got the heads off. Off to the shop. or DOA? Whahahahahahahhaha. I have lots of carbon? build up on the pistons. You can see where the gaskets moved/squished on the cyclinders. I can't really see where the gaskets were leaking though. I know they were.

 

Mike, have you had problems getting both heads to line up and drop down on the block with the x-over pipe attached? I'm doing one right now and can only get one or the other to fit and line up

 

Yes, you will need a pry bar and some brute force to make the heads "snap" onto the deck. It takes some encouragement. I typically use a 3 foot long pry bar and stick it down in the valley of the block. Then, I pry accordingly until the heads drop down onto the deck.