Westcoastlivin

Hey guys, Toyota newbie here. After 6 months of looking I am finally in a position to buy a 4Runner. I have a choice between two at the moment. One is a 2000 4Runner 295,xxx KILOMETRES 4x4 5speed manual. It has just recently had a new clutch, throw out bearing and pilot bearing done. He has a Aisin timing belt/water pump/ tensioner kit that he could install before sale(not sure how I feel about that) or just be included. The other option is a 1996 Toyota 4Runner 4x4 Automatic with 350,xxx KILOMETRES on it with a factory rear E-locker. Less then 5,000 Kilometres on a new timing belt, water pump and fuel pump. Both are rust free aside from a bit on the front and rear bumpers on the 1996.

PLEASE HELP...I am am in serious need of some advice on which to buy or what to look out for on either one!

75w90mantraN

I'd go for the stick shift with 30k less miles on it, unless the price tag is ridiculous low. Could be riddled with drive problems that may or may not be disclosed. Doesn't hurt to bargain if the price is higher than blue book value. If you have a code reader, ask if you can hook it up to see any pending or stored codes. Test drive both.

If you're a serious off-roader, the one with the e-locker might be the one for you.

Either one, excellent choice. The final decision is yours.

Jomoka

Personal preference, but I'd go for the stick shift. If you want to add a locker to it later on it's far easier than getting a stick shift swapped in.

I just like manual transmissions though.

You could keep looking for a 5 spd with an e-locker, but that's a pretty rare combo. I had to keep scouring a vast area for about 4 months or so before I found mine 2 states away.

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

So what is your budget to fix stuff after you get it?

Westcoastlivin

Westcoastlivin

Thanks for the reply. I am definitely a fan of the manual transmission as well.

Westcoastlivin

Malcolm99

Don't buy a 4Runner with 300,000Km, wait for 1 with 200,000Km and spend the extra now instead of working on it later, they do still exist, I got mine with 140,000Km for $8000 after taxes and plates. The main thing to consider is what drivetrain you prefer Auto or manual, I loved manuals but Auto in a 4x4 truck is really nice on those back roads, city driving, long drives, rocky hills and mud holes, I suppose the mountains is where manual would shine but I didn't mind driving my Auto to Tofino and back to Onterrible. There are basically a few options throughout the years 96-98, 99-00, 01-02, personally I stay away from 01-02 because of the addition of traction control, new brake master set up, no manual trans or e-locker option. 96-98 are well done with manual linkage shift, but don't have the 4WD unlocked (AWD) multimode option and you shouldn't drive around with your centre diff locked all the time like the 96-97 are, 99-00 have multimode 2WD, 4WD centre diff unlocked, 4x4Hi locked, 4x4Lo locked and most in Canada came with e-locker on the limited trims. 99-00 did come with some issues or limitations though. climate control, fuel gauge issue, Immobilizer which can be great or difficult if you lose all keys or need a replacement ECU with keys and FOB. 99's also got updated injectors, and tallest coil springs. Issues I've seen are radiator/auto trans failures, rust holes in frame at lowest 4 points, rusted out diff housing, axle seals leaking due to plugged diff vent, diff fluid not changed, stripped pinion gear, rear window parts rusting causing issues, tailgate and bumpers rusting, incorrect spark plugs, O2 sensor failures, lower ball joint failures, AC issues. If I see rust on the bumpers or tailgate I walk away as that is a good sign of what the frame and rockers looks like on the inside. A compression test isn't that hard either and wise to do.

I'm surprised you can't get the Hilux Surf Diesel at the port there.

habanero

You've had a good look at the undersides, then? Seems like you see a lot of super-rusty 4Runners out of BC. Not enough questions answered to choose which vehicle, though personally I'd be leaning towards the stick and lower miles. I'd personally prefer a 3.4l 4x m/t (you don't say which engine). I've got no problem throwing a timing kit in, though, and I like that the seller went with an oem kit. It's nice that both trucks' timing components are being/have been addressed. I'd be crawling underneath and looking at the frame, like the rear lower control arm mount and the upper rear shock mount....everywhere else too. I'd want to know what maintenance intervals were, would look at the fluids currently in there. When were the lower ball joints done and was oe used? At that mileage they might not have been and that's okay, but you'll want to put it on your sooner to-do list if not (search lower ball joint failure). Is there evidence of leaking rear seals (oily pattern on the inner rear tires). How do the cv boots look? How does the tires/spare/spare mount look/is it frozen? Is there rust at the sills? On the auto transmission I'd ask if the trans cooler in the radiator has been bypassed with a separate oil cooler or if the radiator has been replaced. If either of those things has it strawberry milkshaked (search).

In no way am I trying to scare you, just that's some of the stuff I'd be asking if I were to suddenly lose my mind and sell my 96. Which I'm not. I've kept it pretty well maintained and it's never let me down at 478,000 km. So far.
PS. If the 96 makes moo sounds after it's shut off no worries, it's a super-easy fix or can be left as is.