Hi all,

I'm ready for my next project. After reviewing the maintenance schedule in my FSM for my 88 pickup, it indicated that I need to replace the "front wheel bearing and thrust bush grease".

Two questions:

1. Do both the inner and outer front bearings require cleaning and repacking new grease? Or is the FSM referring to just the outer front bearing?

2. What's the thrust bush?

TIA for any help

Troy

 

bump....

 

Anybody?

 

Yes they both need grease, I used a high temp synthetic grease. This should help: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/

 

Here another write-up: http://www.off-road.com/toyota/wheel_bearing.html

 

Thanks mt_goat. I've got to get a 54mm or 2 1/8 inch socket before starting.

 

They are cheap some places. Here is the kind I have: http://www.handsontools.com/store/sh...roduct_id=2260

 

Thanks again mt_goat - on another note, I was trying to get one of the two bolts on the shackle holding down the driver's side sway bar bushing and I broke the bugger off!!! It sheared right off with no stud sticking out.

What turned out to be a quick job has now turned into more time trying to get the bleeping bolt out.

 

Don't you just hate it when that happens

 

Aurrrrrrrrrrrggghhh.... The other bolt on the same shackle also broke off about half way through. There appeared to be very little rust penetration into the bolt. I'm guessing that the bolt strength was substandard for that application. Once I get those buggers off, I've got 10.9 metric bolts to take their place. I'll smear on some anti-seize for good measure also, just in case they need to be removed again.

#fgj**##&!!!da#@!!!!!!!!!!

 

This is too funny... I started out wanting to do a front wheel bearing job and now I'm stuck trying to get out broken bolts for what was supposed to be a quick fix for my sway bar bushings!!

What's even funnier is that after I pulled the bushing out for inspection, it looked practically new. What I thought was a tear in the bushing was just the part that opens up so that the rubber bushing can wrap around the sway bar. For crying out loudddddddd!!!!!! I shouda left it alone... shouda.. wouda... couda... I probably would have tried to remove it anyway... :cry:

Can I drive it around with one missing shackle?

 

You can drive without the sway bar connected just slow down a bit. Go ahead and disconnect the swaybar from the lower control arms and just wire the bar up out of the way until you can get a broken bolt extractor or something. Better try some heat or something on the other ones. Yeah, I put anti-seize or blue loc-tight on most everything now.

 

Just removed the other shackle with no problem. Before replacing them, I smothered them with anti-seize. Thanks for the suggestion about removing the swaybar links from the lower arm. I can just imagine the increased stress the "hanging link" would have to pick up without the shackle bracing it to the frame. I'll disconnect them tomorrow morning before it leaves the garage. Thanks again for all your help. This forum has been a blessing for me.

Have a great night mt_goat!

 

Yeah the forum is great, it sure helps me too.

 

The saga continues... I got one of the bolts off with a torch and an extractor. The other one was a bear. After going through half a dozen bits, the extractor got lodged into the bolt and wouldn't come out. I finally punched the whole thing through using a hammer and center punch. It took about an hour. Now I'm left with a big hole and no threads!! :cry:

There doesn't seem to be any way to access the hole from the inside to get a nut in there.

This is turning into one nightmare. Now I'm not sure what to do.

 

So is there anything left to put a heli-coil into? Do you know how to weld? Maybe you could weld an insert in there?

 

Not a chance for heli-coil due to limited thickness, and I don't know how to weld. Yes, I think an insert would work as long as its welded in place. I wonder how much that would cost?

 

Well, I'm going to try another approach with a nut that has a flange and try to fish it through on of the holes in the chassis with a coat hanger. Hope this works.