95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Got new tires and wheels. Now I have front end shake

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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 11:55 AM
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ThomasJ's Avatar
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From: Lafayette IN
Got new tires and wheels. Now I have front end shake

I just got my 32x11.50 Yokohama AT+2s installed. I also have new american racing 15x8 3.75 backspacing wheels. Before the swap the truck drove smooth. Now it has a bad wobble in the front end.

I also installed manual hubs and set the ride height to 15 inches fender to rim lip. What could be causing this. The idler arm is new and all the other parts very tight.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 12:03 PM
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mytruck's Avatar
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From: Auburn, WA
Smile Tires Out-Of- Balance

...is my guess. Try another shop that knows how to balance a tire right!

Jim
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 12:15 PM
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yup, sounds like a bad balance.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 12:50 PM
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yup, bad balance... try making the shop do it again for free...
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 04:20 PM
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Did you get an alignment? I know its usually not related to shaking but you'll need it anyway.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 04:31 PM
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From: Upsate SC
Like others have said the tire may be out of balance, but I have seen on some occasions where the tire is not true itself and can also cause problems. Did you get used wheels or brand new wheels? That can also cause a shake if the wheel is bent, but can sometimes be remedied with a balance.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 05:37 PM
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If the tire is in balance, try the alignment. I got the same tires (265/75/16) and had some issues after an alignment. Most of the issues were related to vibration/steering wheel shake driving faster than 70 mph. It ended up being a bad alignment and all items (toe, casper, camber) were out of spec but the truck still drove straight.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 06:27 PM
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From: Minnesota
Most shops either make you get an alignment or STRONGLY SUGGEST it after new shoes. With the technology in the shops even John Doe who only made it to 6th grade can balance a tire. Alignment should fix it.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 06:40 PM
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From: Lafayette IN
Im getting the steering recall done thursday morning. The truck was sitting at 13.5 inches ride hight before this so I probably really screwed up the alignment by raising it. Also.

The wheels were used but they do not have any bends that I know of.

I did notice that there is some slop in the bushing in the end of the steering stabilizer. I can move it about a 16th of an inch on the passenger side.
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Old Oct 17, 2005 | 07:58 PM
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From: Minnesota
With all those variables brought in at once bring it to a pro with the right equipment and they'll set you straight. A bent rim would have been spotted when mounting the tires (or it sure should have)
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Old Nov 3, 2005 | 05:10 PM
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From: Lafayette IN
I ordered a skyjacker steering stabilizer kit and it fixed it . I do not have any wobble now. The stock stabilizer was very weak. I could compress it with very little effort. The truck just feels like I have more control over it. It stays strait when I hit bumps in the road. It used to about yank the steering wheel out of your hand. The truck no longer "feels" like it has 140,000 miles on it. 100% improvment.
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Old Nov 9, 2005 | 11:31 AM
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From: maine
Originally Posted by ThomasJ
I ordered a skyjacker steering stabilizer kit and it fixed it . I do not have any wobble now ... 100% improvment.
i don't know what model you have, but i probably have the same SS. however, i'm going to switch it out for the direct-fit OME SS when i get the steering relay rod recall done soon; just want a cleaner setup (no brackets).
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 10:40 AM
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From: Lafayette IN
I got the full size one. The part number is 7186. It cost $52.00 and uses the U-bolts and bracket to mount it to the steering rod and a thick bracket on the other side that bolts on with the idler arm bolts.

They do offer a "slim body" one that does not require the mounting brackets. The part number on it is 7900 and cost $36.00
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Old Nov 10, 2005 | 11:06 AM
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From: maine
Originally Posted by ThomasJ
I got the full size one.... it uses the U-bolts and bracket to mount it to the steering rod and a thick bracket on the other side that bolts on with the idler arm bolts.
yup, same one! it does work well, doesn't it? i recognize that it's frivolous to ditch it for a direct-fit unit, but i've sunk so much $$ into this thing lately that i figure i might as well have it setup exactly as i ultimately want it.
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