I am getting a whole e-locker axle out of another 3rd gen that has over 190k miles on it. I think I am just going to put some good gear oil in it and swap the whole axle into my 98 SR5. They both have the 4.10 ratio so I won't have to be concerned about the front diff. As far as I know it should be a pretty straight forward swap because I am getting the factory switch for it also. Do you guys think I should spend the time and money replacing bearings on it or just put it in and drive it? I will likely put my brakes on it if they are in better shape but the rest should be a straight bolt on operation...

Anyone have any input on the deal? I will try to get some pictures of the swap and post up my comments. The yard I am buying it from has a 90 day guarantee on the parts so I think I will just put it in and change the fluid...

 

How much are they charging you for it? If you don't mind me asking.

 

how many miles does your truck have on it?

I wouldnt really worry about bearings, its easy enough to pull the shafts and have it replaced.

if you have lower mileage you could just pull your shafts and swap them to the new housing. its like 8 bolts total to swap axle shafts.

 

Mine has 165k on it and the whole drive train is very smooth. I am getting the whole thing drum to drum and wiring switch for $450

 

Are you sure the rear is 4.10? I had heard that all e-lockers were 4.3.

 

mines not 4:30 or that's cause its a 5spd

 

Five speed's may be different...hmmmm

 

The axle codes match on the trucks according to the door jam sticker and the chart the guy at the yard has. I was under the impression they came in 4.10, 4.30 and 4.56

 

I paid 380$ for the diff and computer. SR5 is pre-wired for the E-locker thank god. I gutted a LTD 4Runner and converted mine. I had to switch out both diff's when I did mine, as the 99' I gutted had 4:30 gears and my SR5 had 4:10. i wouldn't go by what the door sticker says.

 

I know this is covered in other threads, but if the door sticker isn't right, what's the easiest way to tell how you're geared?

 

count the rotations, use tape. I need to do that some day.

 

Does anyone have any info on wiring the locker in a 98 SR5? The old write up in the tech archives is on a web site that is no longer existent. I found this write up below after some searching.

http://www.sonoransteel.com/phong/re...ic_locker.html

I am still kind of confused as to where the factory wiring is on the SR5 models and what I need to make it work. I found the plug behind the dash location for the switch and underneath the drivers side passenger seat I found the ABS harness.

So do I need all the wiring from the dash to the axle? I have the harness that attaches to the motor on the axle. I also have the RR DIFF LOCK button that goes in the dash (but its out of a manual so the connector on it doesn't fit the plug behind my dash).

Here is a list of what I have
-Drum to Drum axle
-wiring harness that connects to the e-locker motor

IS this what I NEED?
-Toyota E-locker ECU
-Toyota E-locker switch from an automatic
-Wiring from the E-locker to the dash

 

I would go ahead and change out the axle seals while you have it apart

 

I know the wiring of an elocker intimately, but I just know how to wire it independently of the ecu.

 

Crolison, do share your secrets. I see the comment in your sig...

 

If your rear brakes are in good/better shape then this will transfer your complete rear brakes at the same time.