Found a Scooped Hood on CL, what next?
#41
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From: Arlington, Virginia
So what rattle can paint should I use? I was going to start with a coat of self etching primer to make sure the paint has something to stick to...Also, what kind of clearcoat should I use? because I don't want the sun and other normal driving conditions to ruin the paintjob...
#42
I have always just done a couple coats of primer, like 3 coats of color. And a couple coats of clear.
But on your nice 4runner you might want to google a more "proper" way of doing it. I have just done it on beater civics and stuff. It always looks good though
But on your nice 4runner you might want to google a more "proper" way of doing it. I have just done it on beater civics and stuff. It always looks good though
#43
sounds like its gonna be sweet man. What area of austin do you live in? I'm up in Pflugerville, and I don't know of many Yota drivers up here. There are a lot of them, just not ones I know on the forums. good luck on the hood.
#44
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From: Arlington, Virginia
Thanks! I am in South-Central Austin close to St. Edward's University, I just started grad school there.
#46
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From: Arlington, Virginia
At this point I still haven't decided what I want to do so I am open to any other ideas, tips, advice, etc. Let me know what you guys think
#47
i got some touch-up paint from the dealership, and it wasn't that bad. perfect match (just give 'em the vin) and about the same price as autozone/advance. i would assume the same for larger quantities (quart sized, maybe?)
#48
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From: Arlington, Virginia
That sounds like the way to go as long as it doesn't cost me an arm and a leg...Does anyone know if it can be rolled on? I would only get it if I can roll it on because I don't want to have to pay someone to spray it on for me...
#49
I don't see why it can't be rolled on. You can probably pick up a quart (which is way more than you need) for under $50
#50

#51
#52
I don't see why it can't be rolled on. You can probably pick up a quart (which is way more than you need) for under $50
#53
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Does anyone have a step-by-step procedure/writeup that I can follow? I have never rolled on paint before so I just want to make sure it comes out right.
And for those paint experts out there...
1) Do I need primer?
2) Do I need to cut/thin the paint with anything?
3) Does 3 coats sound about right?
4) Should I sand between coats? If so, what grit?
5) What clearcoat should I use?
6) Any other tips, info or advice?
#55
I would just go with spraying some self etching primer, then some building primer, block it up to 400-600 grit, then rattle can it with some flat black. I've never heard of a dealer that will sell anything bigger than a tube of touch up. Matching paint is not perfect either, that's why body shops will blend the color into adjacent panels to trick your eye into not seeing the slight mismatch, especially with metallics. From your avatar it looks like you have a white vehicle with no metallic, but any color is difficult to match. The computers they use for paint mixes usually have multiple variations of the same color, add in fading paint and sometimes yellowing clear coats from years of sun exposure and you realize it's not as simple as getting your paint code and you're done. If you can't spray it yourself, I would go to an automotive paint store in your area (Sherwin Williams people are usually very knowledgeable) and ask them about your idea of rolling it on and see what product they suggest. Rolling on a product that is meant to be sprayed can and will probably cause a lot of issues since the spray on products are meant to go on in thin coats with a flash time for the solvents to evaporate thoroughly before the next coat is applied. Rolling it on thick will probably cause adhesion issues, won't cure forever, and you might run into the same globby mess you just sanded off.
Like I said, the cheapest and easiest thing to do would be to go with a flat black spray bomb and call it good. I had my sport hood professionally painted by the best body shop in town but requested they NOT blend into the fenders, and even though it's a VERY good match, it's not perfect and the clear coat they used is yellowing at a different rate than the OEM finish. I should have gone flat black and put the money into something worthwhile.
Finally, if you're going to do your rockers with Herculiner, I think a black hood would look sweet and give it a cool Stormtrooper look. Just my opinion.
Like I said, the cheapest and easiest thing to do would be to go with a flat black spray bomb and call it good. I had my sport hood professionally painted by the best body shop in town but requested they NOT blend into the fenders, and even though it's a VERY good match, it's not perfect and the clear coat they used is yellowing at a different rate than the OEM finish. I should have gone flat black and put the money into something worthwhile.
Finally, if you're going to do your rockers with Herculiner, I think a black hood would look sweet and give it a cool Stormtrooper look. Just my opinion.
#56
I would just go with spraying some self etching primer, then some building primer, block it up to 400-600 grit, then rattle can it with some flat black. I've never heard of a dealer that will sell anything bigger than a tube of touch up. Matching paint is not perfect either, that's why body shops will blend the color into adjacent panels to trick your eye into not seeing the slight mismatch, especially with metallics. From your avatar it looks like you have a white vehicle with no metallic, but any color is difficult to match. The computers they use for paint mixes usually have multiple variations of the same color, add in fading paint and sometimes yellowing clear coats from years of sun exposure and you realize it's not as simple as getting your paint code and you're done. If you can't spray it yourself, I would go to an automotive paint store in your area (Sherwin Williams people are usually very knowledgeable) and ask them about your idea of rolling it on and see what product they suggest. Rolling on a product that is meant to be sprayed can and will probably cause a lot of issues since the spray on products are meant to go on in thin coats with a flash time for the solvents to evaporate thoroughly before the next coat is applied. Rolling it on thick will probably cause adhesion issues, won't cure forever, and you might run into the same globby mess you just sanded off.
Like I said, the cheapest and easiest thing to do would be to go with a flat black spray bomb and call it good. I had my sport hood professionally painted by the best body shop in town but requested they NOT blend into the fenders, and even though it's a VERY good match, it's not perfect and the clear coat they used is yellowing at a different rate than the OEM finish. I should have gone flat black and put the money into something worthwhile.
Finally, if you're going to do your rockers with Herculiner, I think a black hood would look sweet and give it a cool Stormtrooper look. Just my opinion.
Like I said, the cheapest and easiest thing to do would be to go with a flat black spray bomb and call it good. I had my sport hood professionally painted by the best body shop in town but requested they NOT blend into the fenders, and even though it's a VERY good match, it's not perfect and the clear coat they used is yellowing at a different rate than the OEM finish. I should have gone flat black and put the money into something worthwhile.
Finally, if you're going to do your rockers with Herculiner, I think a black hood would look sweet and give it a cool Stormtrooper look. Just my opinion.
Don't do flat black, get it painted to match the truck. Do it right. Check with your Toyota dealership and see if the have the paint. When i had my Hyundai Tiburon i needed a quart of paint to paint my hood. They had it and sold it to me for $44. And it matched perfectly. Can't hurt to ask eh?
#58
well i read this a few times but havent gotten a chance to read through the whole thread until now... glad u got the hood scoop, ya im like mauzer, live in San Antonio and was wondering when someone was gonna pick this up. Well looks like ur on the right track and good luck with the roll on. i have nvr done paint on something like this and wouldnt trust myself!
#59
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From: Arlington, Virginia
well i read this a few times but havent gotten a chance to read through the whole thread until now... glad u got the hood scoop, ya im like mauzer, live in San Antonio and was wondering when someone was gonna pick this up. Well looks like ur on the right track and good luck with the roll on. i have nvr done paint on something like this and wouldnt trust myself!
I would just go with spraying some self etching primer, then some building primer, block it up to 400-600 grit, then rattle can it with some flat black. I've never heard of a dealer that will sell anything bigger than a tube of touch up. Matching paint is not perfect either, that's why body shops will blend the color into adjacent panels to trick your eye into not seeing the slight mismatch, especially with metallics. From your avatar it looks like you have a white vehicle with no metallic, but any color is difficult to match. The computers they use for paint mixes usually have multiple variations of the same color, add in fading paint and sometimes yellowing clear coats from years of sun exposure and you realize it's not as simple as getting your paint code and you're done. If you can't spray it yourself, I would go to an automotive paint store in your area (Sherwin Williams people are usually very knowledgeable) and ask them about your idea of rolling it on and see what product they suggest. Rolling on a product that is meant to be sprayed can and will probably cause a lot of issues since the spray on products are meant to go on in thin coats with a flash time for the solvents to evaporate thoroughly before the next coat is applied. Rolling it on thick will probably cause adhesion issues, won't cure forever, and you might run into the same globby mess you just sanded off.
Like I said, the cheapest and easiest thing to do would be to go with a flat black spray bomb and call it good. I had my sport hood professionally painted by the best body shop in town but requested they NOT blend into the fenders, and even though it's a VERY good match, it's not perfect and the clear coat they used is yellowing at a different rate than the OEM finish. I should have gone flat black and put the money into something worthwhile.
Finally, if you're going to do your rockers with Herculiner, I think a black hood would look sweet and give it a cool Stormtrooper look. Just my opinion.
Like I said, the cheapest and easiest thing to do would be to go with a flat black spray bomb and call it good. I had my sport hood professionally painted by the best body shop in town but requested they NOT blend into the fenders, and even though it's a VERY good match, it's not perfect and the clear coat they used is yellowing at a different rate than the OEM finish. I should have gone flat black and put the money into something worthwhile.
Finally, if you're going to do your rockers with Herculiner, I think a black hood would look sweet and give it a cool Stormtrooper look. Just my opinion.
1) Protect the rocker panels - I just moved up to 33X12.5R15's and they are wide! The stock mudflaps don't do much at all to prevent the tires from throwing stuff onto the truck. For example, it rained about a week ago and I can see how high the new wider tires throw dirt and other debris on the truck. I would like to add some protection the the rocker panels because they will take the worst beating.
2) Protect the hood - I don't know about you guys but my hood seems to be a magnet for rocks and other stuff that gets kicked up by cars in front of me. The front of my hood has countless dings and scratches where it was hit by debris. The protective liner should prevent these types of dings and scratches.
3) Looks - I think it will look pretty cool having the hood and rocker panels coated with the same liner. I think it would look out of place if just the hood was coated, but I think having the rocker panels coated as well would tie it together. Not to mention the black accents should really stand out against a white truck!
What do you think?
#60
Flat Black will kill the glare you get from the sun and most of all the reflection you get from it on a nice bright day that said I would do it flat or satin black if it were mine but it's yours so good luck with whatever you do I like to see the finished product




