This thread saved me from the squeak! Thanks! It took me about an hour to do and I ended up taking off the front panel to make things easier. Like several other folks, I used a rag and a big flat head screwdriver and worked the torsional clutch spring out from one side. After that it was easy. I ended up using one of those HELP! packages of universal springs from Autozone and used the 1/4in x 6in and it worked just fine. No more squeaking!!!

 

Okay, so I finished this last night and I was SO glad to get rid of that spring. I did learn a trick that I think might be helpful: Use a pair of channel lock pliers to compress the springs along the axis of rotation.

1. Adjust the channel locks to the point where you can just get the jaws across the span of the spring from the center loop to the end.
2. Squeeze the pliers until the little tail end of the spring comes out of the hole in the bracket. (the spring will be compressed like a helical spring on your shocks would)
3. Slowly release the tension
4. Remove from bracket
5. Profit

I'd tried to pry it out with a screwdriver and a tire iron, but was having issues. This way took almost no time, and the spring didn't fly out. Having the jaws of the pliers across half of the turns of the spring and compressing that way gives you more control of how the energy is released.

Thanks again for this thread!

 

Does this fix the busted clutch spring for 89-94.5 trucks as well, or specifically for 3rd gen?

 

Thanks for this tip!

My pedal was getting stuck down, after replacing the clutch master cylinder it still happened (didn't bleed the line yet though, figured I would try changing the spring first).

After removing this spring and putting in a linear tension spring it solved the problem, bled the line and clutch was good again. Couldn't find exactly a #70 or 5 x 7/16 (.047) but found one similar and it works. It's hitting the old spring groove when fully pressed in which makes an annoying click currently but the spring I'm using is a bit different, at least my clutch pedal works again. Will look into it a bit more later.

Definitely feels different, but I actually like it, with spring and freshly bled line + new master cylinder it feels a lot smoother all the way.

 

Much thanks to Unhappy99, and to everyone in this thread who has added to the knowledge base for this ingenious fix. I saw a few posts asking about using this mod on earlier Tacomas. Any idea how this might work with a 1986 Pickup?

 

I recently did this mod on my 99 tacoma but after taking the old spring out and putting the new linear spring in the truck wont shift out of nuetral when the truck is running. I can however put it into any gear without pressing the clutch down when the truck is off. Also the truck starts when pressing the clutch in. I did shove some rags in the areas around the clutch pedal and spring but didn't alter anything else besides putting in the new spring.


Any help or suggestions would be appreciated

****EDIT: Figured it out!!, No more help needed

 

I did this, this morning before work. I wasted 10 minutes with a big-ass screwdriver, then I went back and got my Craftsman mini-pry bar: (This set is USA-made, by Wilde Tool, dirt cheap right now for 19.99, http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-3...ID=00943278000)

It took about 20 seconds to get it off with that. Lesson learned: never try to pry with a screw driver if you have a pry bar handy. Tiny squeak remains, hardly noticeable when driving. I hit everything with silicone lube but it still didn't go away. I'll maybe try more later. I'm still on the fence about getting the 2nd Gen 4Runner clutch spring (90507-14030‏). I figure i'll give it a try, for some reason that first floppy inch bugs me.

Thanks for all the helpful posts, my contribution: use the pry bar first, it's 10 times easier!

PS, I can tell the clutch seemed to get heavier at the end of its stroke with this mod. That lighter-thru-the-stroke feeling had seemed odd at first, though I got used to it. But now the clutch feels more like my other two cars ('02 WRX, '06 EVO9), so YotaTech FTW!

 

1/2 inch threaded rod with a couple of big washers. Tighten the nut to compress the spring and remove it easily and safely.

 

Dragging up an old thread, but still great information. I did the quick and dirty pry the old spring off with a small pry-bar while the clutch assembly was still on my 2000 4runner. The torsion spring and the attachment point on the pedal had large groves in them. It was beyond putting new plastic bushings in. I had ordered the bushings and a clutch spring from a second gen. I went with the second gen clutch spring and it was an easy fix. The 4runner shifts great and the clutch feels like it should. A little more resistance than with the torsion spring, but it now feels like a clutch should and no more horrible metal on metal squeaking!

Toyota Part # 90507-14030 $3.22