I have never had to replace a timing belt or w/p before so I am about to under go my first one cheers to it! I just rolled over to 94k in my 2000 runner and figure its time to do it. Ha I get 10% above cost on all oem parts so here's what I had picked up.
Timing belt
Water pump
Thermostat
All drive belts
Front main seal
Fipg
Factory red coolant
And a/f-o/f
Some of those didn't cost me a thing but I spent about 220 on everything. But here's my question. Should I have picked up a crank bolt? I asked a Toyota master tech and he said they always reuse the bolts and he has never had to replace one. I see on here that some people suggest that you do?? Also why would this be something that you NEED to replace? Also any tips/shortcuts would be much appreciated!!

 

The bolt gets torqued pretty high. It's a good sized bolt so it could probably be reused but for $6 every 100K miles, replace it.

 

Just make sure you torque it properly (217 ft. lbs.)

 

The crank bolt is listed as a non re-usable part in the FSM. Some do re-use it...clean the threads and use at least blue lock-tite on threads when installing.

Be sure to inspect closely both idler pulleys and the hydraulic tensioner. Place the jiggle valve in the 6 o'clock position when installing the thermostat.

Use the FSM and a good guide such as this:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/n...review-247545/

 

Ya I was figuring to replace it too but we happened to run out of stock today and it was too late to put an order in. Seeing as how I got everything after I had clocked out. I got some decent advice from the techs at work and one let me borrow the snap on tensioner tool so I don't have to remove that. I'm just thinking about the crank pulley. Any good ideas on quick tools to make? I've seen a few in some threads, I just don't have a welder. And my neighbor that has one is out of town for the holidays. Thanks guys the more knowledge the better.

 

I made one of these up:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...l-tool-186081/

Some make a holder up using a 2x4 and a couple of bolts.

 

You can probably rent a chain wrench from your local auto parts store. Wrap the pulley with your old drive belt cut to fit to protect it from the chain. I've never replaced a crank bolt, never used loctite, I use wd40 on the threads and washer. Never had one break or fall out. I've probably done 500 or more timing belts on the 3.4. Not sure why someone suggested placing the tstat bleeder at 6 o'clock. Should be 12 o'clock. You shouldn't need FIPG for this job. I've been a toyota tech for 13 years

 

The Toyota FSM says jiggle valve down. Please see link:

http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1996/SIL/.../ther/inst.pdf

 

Learn something new everyday I suppose. Must not be too critical though, because apparently I've been doing those wrong for a while. I stand corrected, Thanks

 

Continual learning is a great thing.

Here's an interesting thread on the jiggle valve at up versus down 6 o'clock on the 5vz-fe using the stock 180F thermostat with noticeable operating temperature differences:

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/5...easure-249481/

 

Not saying I disagree but I find that tough to believe. I plan to test my brothers truck before and after I redo his tstat! Funny thing is, I don't recall ever noticing the valve being at 6:00 on the old tstats. My engine has 55k and the original water pump and tstat. I want to pull it apart now and see where the valve is!

 

I would suggest to the OP to be sure to check when he does his and report back.

 

Well I'm at crank shaft pulley right now decided its a good time for a beer, but I was in a rush this morning and figured I'd just make a tool from an old 2x4 so I went nd looked around the yard and they all happen to be rotted out and just my luck I hop in my other ride and now that won't start Haha so I'm going for a bike ride I guess. But I will check back in when I pull thermostat out and let you guys no where jiggle valve is set at.

 

Here's a paste of a post LinkyI made in a recent thread; you may find it useful:

 

Looks identical to what I made and it worked fine. Now I just can't get pulley off

 

Can't help you there. Mine just slid off at 120k. I will advise they break easily and cost a lot.

 

Ya I'm about to go borrow a pulley puller and see if that will get the job done.

 

Give the crank end a good dose of PB Blaster...there may be a bit of rust between the crank and the pulley.

 

For those of you that were asking the jiggle valve was set at 12 o'clock. I didn't get to finish today unfortunately, the crank pulley took me 2 people 2 pry bars and a sledge hammer to remove man that was an ordeal!! It took longer getting the pulley off then doing pretty much everything else. I got to all the way to installing crank pulling when I snapped my 3/8ths drill bit and decide to call it a night. It was getting dark, I needed beer, and I was pissed at that point!

 

I snapped my 3/8" adapter putting on the new crank bolt, I needed a 1/2" drive set anyhow.

http://home.centurytel.net/stevenjac...lt/timing.html