engine dies after WOT
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engine dies after WOT
I pulled out into traffic this morning and had to stand on it. when I slowed down and pressed the clutch the engine died. when I released the clutch (still in gear) the engine started again, but didn't want to idle without some skinny pedal help.
2 min later, all seems well, it idles again, runs and drives fine.
after running some errands, I figured I'd give it another go just to make sure it wasn't some weird fluke. so I verified my roadway was clear, and went WOT again, spun it up to about 5k rpm then pressed in the clutch. again, the motor died, and wouldn't idle without some help, when I pulled up to the stoplight, it stopped running all together, and only started with the accelerator pedal mashed. after that restart, no problems running or idling.
I haven't had any issues with this truck until just now.
the truck in question is a 2000 4runner(CALI emissions), 5speed, 4X4, about 165k miles, 3.4litre, TRD gen II supercharger, TRD 7th injector, 5"deckplate, and ISR mod.
this same problem(somewhat, no WOT, just died when stopped at a light) showed itself last week immediately after the replacement of the aged A/F sensor, and cleaning of the MAF, with computer reset. it always has run a little weird for a couple miles after a battery pull/computer reset, so I didn't think anything of it.
has my weak sauce toyota fueling system finally showed its face? or is this just something that the computer needs more time to learn?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
2 min later, all seems well, it idles again, runs and drives fine.
after running some errands, I figured I'd give it another go just to make sure it wasn't some weird fluke. so I verified my roadway was clear, and went WOT again, spun it up to about 5k rpm then pressed in the clutch. again, the motor died, and wouldn't idle without some help, when I pulled up to the stoplight, it stopped running all together, and only started with the accelerator pedal mashed. after that restart, no problems running or idling.
I haven't had any issues with this truck until just now.
the truck in question is a 2000 4runner(CALI emissions), 5speed, 4X4, about 165k miles, 3.4litre, TRD gen II supercharger, TRD 7th injector, 5"deckplate, and ISR mod.
this same problem(somewhat, no WOT, just died when stopped at a light) showed itself last week immediately after the replacement of the aged A/F sensor, and cleaning of the MAF, with computer reset. it always has run a little weird for a couple miles after a battery pull/computer reset, so I didn't think anything of it.
has my weak sauce toyota fueling system finally showed its face? or is this just something that the computer needs more time to learn?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
#2
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the same thing happend to me in my dads taco but its an automatic and i was free reving (with no exhaust ) and it just died but ran fine when i started it back up. it sounds like you may be running to rich but i could be wrong.
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I have a similar issue. It been bugging me for several years now, but never really found the time to look into it. My engine would die after going up a hill, where I would open up the throttle for a longer period of time. When it stalled it would start right up as if nothing really happened.
I have tried cleaning the IAC, It seemed to reduce the frequency of the problem quite a bit. The problem use to plaque me in town, but now I only really see it when I drive for a while on the highway and come to stop.
I've been wanting to try cleaning the IAC again and maybe even try testing/replacing the TPS.
I have tried cleaning the IAC, It seemed to reduce the frequency of the problem quite a bit. The problem use to plaque me in town, but now I only really see it when I drive for a while on the highway and come to stop.
I've been wanting to try cleaning the IAC again and maybe even try testing/replacing the TPS.
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occasionally it has kicked the TPS check engine light. course when I replaced it with a NAPA unit, the light kicked immediately, and the truck refused to run on its own at all.
maybe its time to swap that too. I assume toyota is best for that? or does someone have the part numbers for it that will actually work?
maybe its time to swap that too. I assume toyota is best for that? or does someone have the part numbers for it that will actually work?
#6
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I would just do your basic tune up and see if it improves at all. Best to start simple and a tune up is always a good idea anyways.
Do you get a CEL while the problem is going on?
Do you get a CEL while the problem is going on?
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no CEL when its happening, other than every light on the dash coming on due to the stalled motor, no code set.
and by basic tune what do you mean?
I figure I'll need plugs soon, MAF just cleaned, air filter cleaned, wires......anything else I'm missing?
oh, and whats the super sweet set up for plugs as of late? I know I'm supposed to go colder for the supercharger, but I cant find any "colder" version of the 2 electrode plugs we're supposed to use, and any spark plug searches usually net 20+ page discussions with no real answers.
and by basic tune what do you mean?
I figure I'll need plugs soon, MAF just cleaned, air filter cleaned, wires......anything else I'm missing?
oh, and whats the super sweet set up for plugs as of late? I know I'm supposed to go colder for the supercharger, but I cant find any "colder" version of the 2 electrode plugs we're supposed to use, and any spark plug searches usually net 20+ page discussions with no real answers.
Last edited by fullmann; 07-10-2011 at 05:28 PM.
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#8
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By tune up i usually do the whole nine yards.
Fuel filter, Air filter, seafoam treatment, oil change, sparkplugs, sparkplug wires, clean MAF and i am surr there are a few things i am forgetting.
I think the IK22 plugs are dual electrodes and the plugs i was running with my supercharger.
Fuel filter, Air filter, seafoam treatment, oil change, sparkplugs, sparkplug wires, clean MAF and i am surr there are a few things i am forgetting.
I think the IK22 plugs are dual electrodes and the plugs i was running with my supercharger.
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By tune up i usually do the whole nine yards.
Fuel filter, Air filter, seafoam treatment, oil change, sparkplugs, sparkplug wires, clean MAF and i am surr there are a few things i am forgetting.
I think the IK22 plugs are dual electrodes and the plugs i was running with my supercharger.
Fuel filter, Air filter, seafoam treatment, oil change, sparkplugs, sparkplug wires, clean MAF and i am surr there are a few things i am forgetting.
I think the IK22 plugs are dual electrodes and the plugs i was running with my supercharger.
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I don't know about the cutting out issue after WOT , but you do not have a 2000 4runner with Cali emissions. The last year for a stick shift 4runner in California was 1999, the 5 speed lived one more year as a Federal Emission until being dropped all together. Toyota (and all other car manufactures for that matter) had issues getting manual transmission cars/ SUV to pass emission standards because of the fluctuation in RPM's something less prevalent in the Auto's.
I
the truck in question is a 2000 4runner(CALI emissions), 5speed, 4X4, about 165k miles, 3.4litre, TRD gen II supercharger, TRD 7th injector, 5"deckplate, and ISR mod.
has my weak sauce toyota fueling system finally showed its face? or is this just something that the computer needs more time to learn?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
the truck in question is a 2000 4runner(CALI emissions), 5speed, 4X4, about 165k miles, 3.4litre, TRD gen II supercharger, TRD 7th injector, 5"deckplate, and ISR mod.
has my weak sauce toyota fueling system finally showed its face? or is this just something that the computer needs more time to learn?
any help would be greatly appreciated.
#11
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I don't know about the cutting out issue after WOT , but you do not have a 2000 4runner with Cali emissions. The last year for a stick shift 4runner in California was 1999, the 5 speed lived one more year as a Federal Emission until being dropped all together. Toyota (and all other car manufactures for that matter) had issues getting manual transmission cars/ SUV to pass emission standards because of the fluctuation in RPM's something less prevalent in the Auto's.
think its time to change the plugs anyway, may as well do wires, and probably the TPS.
thanks all for the suggestions.
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anywhere in particular to get a good TPS? or any particular manufacturer to go with?
the napa one I tried a couple months ago was a no go right from the first key turn.
the napa one I tried a couple months ago was a no go right from the first key turn.
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