Are you sure it's a crack? I've seen pieces that were cast and due to poor molding \ cleanup looks to have a crack in it.

Something as important as an alternator I sure wouldn't want to mount in my 4Runner with it defective. Who did you get it from? If a company then I would demand another one sent to you. If off of CL or eBay then you just might be hosed...

 

Subscribed !!!

 

Subscribed - Thanks

Anyone know if this 'work's on the 2.7L 4-cyl?

 

I got it off a car audio forum. I don't know if it was sold to me damaged or if it was dropped during shipping. The alternator looked OK from the pictures when I purchased it last October, but I never really looked at it until a couple of weeks ago when I finally decided to put it in.

Unfortunately, it is definitely a crack......

 

anybody got a link to some 2nd gen Alt. upgrades? i've searched but can't seem to find any??? lol

 

Give this a shot..

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=207958

 

LOL i'm a member of pirate...and it never crossed my mind to search there..oopps lol..thanks bud!

 

Haha. No prob! I saw something similar to this a while back on another site, but I cant remember where.

 

i'd rather install the CS-144 though lol, the CS-130 is only 105amps..the CS-144 is LOTS more lol

 

The CS-130 is also notorious for running VERY hot and having a short life span. The CS-144 on the other hand was built with cooling in mind, because of this many of them are in marine, RV, and tow truck service.

Stay away from the CS-130S


FOG

 

Just happened to run across this posting for a 91 truck 3.0 with a cs144....
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f131...-3-0-a-118482/

 

Hey, has anyone found an adaptor to go from our harness to the GM plug? I though I read somewhere there was one, but I can't find it now....

 

I haven't been able to find any who makes an adapter. That being said building a adapter is pretty easy. You can just piggy back a GM style wire plug onto your OEM harness in case you want to switch back later.

FOG

 

Yep, that's the game plan. Just wanted to double check before I went that route.
Thanks

 

go have it tested and then you will know if it still works...

 

Does anyone have a typical part number for the alternator and jumper from PepBoys/Kragen/Autozone?

 

Fogrunner, did you do this alternator upgrade on your 2001 4runner SR5? If so, is the engine in that 4runner the 3.4 v6?

I'm asking because I'm trying to figure out if this would work on a 2003 tacoma 3.4.

 

Why do people make GM alternator brackets when it's this easy to modify the GM alternators with a couple washers?? Or am I missing something here...

Also, the diagram above for the wiring works for the 22re as well correct? I don't think you ever mentioned what engine you're doing this for..

 

SO! Fog I figured since you created this thread and you seem to have the most knowledge about this topic I'll direct this to you and leave it on this thread for everyones knowledge. I followed your thread almost to the T! I purchased a new CS-144. Its been working great, but today after I picked up my sweet Perkins Performance front bumper i drove out the gate and saw my battery light.. so I stopped in a well lit area and noticed that the power wire was off... hmm unusual so ill just slide it over the stud and secure it some how bc the nut's no where to be found. When i looked closer the stud had been sheered off at the base and the power wire looked burnt... As I pondered the only thing I could think of was hmm... too much electricity yields tons of heat resulting in burnt wire insulation. So, since you have probably been running your CS-144 for a while, what would you think of this situation. While I ponder whats going on and search for a solution I will be running my stock alternator b'c I piggy backed in order to allow for quick swapping. I am thinking i'll have to upgrade the gauge of the power wire from the alternator... what do you think or suggest is going on? Thanks

 

The insulator on the alternator around the stud has a apparent burn mark on it. The wire and insulation also look like they have been exposed to high heat. The alternator lead is also fused at 115 AMP so it wasn't over current.

I'm going to say it was either corrosion and a bad connection which resulted high resistance which heated it up and caused the burn off.

Or it could be one of the diode packs. You didn't indicate the brand of the alternator so I don't know the quality of the parts in the alternator. I have seen several diode packs in the rectifier go bad and allow allot current to flow to ground.

The CS-130 is the most common culprit because of the heat issues but I've seen a few CS-144s with cheap Chinese diodes or old diodes ran in very hot environments. Ya quality of all of "new" alternators is really poor.

I bought mine from Orielly auto parts and after about 6 months I started getting allot of voltage ripple and alternator whine on my ham radios. I yanked it out and cracked it open and everything was made well except for the diodes in the rectifier pack. I ended up ordering some high amp American made diode packs and slapping them in.

http://store.alternatorparts.com/dr5...rectifier.aspx

From looking at the carnage I'm leaning towards it being a diode.



FOG