Great idea here, had to do it myself (after I ruined the stock while muddying...).

Big question on the wiring in regards to the plug. I have four wires on the GM plug, all white, and one is thicker than the others. Now I know the thick one goes to the bat post on the back of the alt. I cannot figure out which of the other wires go to the Toyota side.

Can anyone tell me the order from the large wire as to what goes where? My truck has been down for over a week and this one question is the only one holding me back from completion!

Thanks guys

 

An, found it. Here's the link to the details on wiring if anyone else needs it. It's about halfway down the thread.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115.../#post51274972

 

I made a detailed writeup of installing a CS-144 on my 4Runner. Includes part numbers for the pigtail and everything.

http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=9965.0

 

I see on here that the batt light will work but when doing the 3 wire GM alt does the factory volt gauge still work? Just curious.

gorgot to mention, my truck is a 1983 Toy 22r.

Greg G

 

Yes, it works on my 83.

 

Hi everyone, new to this site.

I was following the listed modifications, and was just about to dive in a order the '95 Fleetwood alternator, when I noticed this site is sectioned based on generations (makes sense, but, damnit!).

Will this modification work on my 1987 22RE 4Runner? I followed this thread because I was interested in the most power I could get, and most 1st gen 4Runners only have mods for 105amps (lame).

 

MrsPib,

for an 87 22R or 22RE you should be able to use a 96 Jaguar XJ5 alternator, BUT you have to have your stock alternator pulley milled to fit over the jag alternator.

 

Thanks for the info.

Any other high amp choices for the early 22RE? Milling the pulley is one of the more involved alterations I've heard about the mod so far, and something I'd have to get a shop involved with :/

 

i did extensive research and i got tapped out on items to find for the v pulley. don't forget to look on pirate4x4.com I was fortunate enough to have a friend who works at a machine shop. He did the work for a 12 pack.

 

Ah, I see. So the v-pulley is a major snag on an 87 22RE.

Do you happen to have a before and after pic, or a description of the milling? Anything I could show a machine shop to explain what I'm looking for if I went that route.

Alternatively, would a different length belt work instead of reusing the pulley?

 

Because of the popularity of this thread, I just wanted to update it with info about my 1987 4Runner 22RE CS-144 mod.

I found the GM 3-wire connector here: http://www.rockauto.com/dbphp/x,cata...ERM_08627.html

I went with the CS-144 alternator, and will be bringing it by an alternator shop tomorrow to see if they can swap the pulleys for me.

I haven't bolted everything up yet, but looking at the massive size difference, I'm glad I have a TrailGear Toyota-to-GM relocation bracket on hand.

CS130 alternator link: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=68297
TrailGear Toyota-to-GM bracket: http://www.trail-gear.com/gm-to-toyo...rnator-bracket

Here is what I'm facing as of tonight. Factory alternator vs. the '95 Cadilliac Fleetwood CS-144.

(also good reading)
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/Wiring/Part2/
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...-do-wrong.html

Update:
Took the CS-144 to an Alternator-specific shop and instead of swapping the pulleys, they were able to find the exact v-belt pulley needed.

It's a Delco 24-1100-1. The measurements the tech gave me, and the measurements on the Delco product site, are slightly different.

 

Complete CS-144 write-up here: http://fixingthetruckagain.blogspot....nstall-cs.html

1987 4Runner with 22RE. Lots of pictures and part numbers.

 

im currently doing this swap. Is there good way to get pulleys off???

 

If they are both v-belt, you don't need to pull them. But if they are not the same, then using a puller. You can borrow one from AutoZone or advance auto for free.

 

gotta a question on wiring when i add my 2 awg wire from alt do i go directly to the batt. and do rehook up the old alt wire or just un bolt it from isolater on driver fender well.or extend it to reach the batt. im just not sure on the main alt charge wire from stock. does the wire only connect on the alt and under hood 80 amp fuse or does it make a few stops along the way there. my fear is that if i dont hook it back up something will suffer a low amp feed any answers would be great thanks.

 

nice rebuilding my 22re and figure I will just switch up to this while the motor is out pretty easy to hook up when I have lots of room lol. I really want the duel battery so this is perfect. Thanks for the time and write up and all the response to the questions FOG.

 

Anyone have a confirmed working belt. I know 1/2" shorter but walking into a parts store and saying 1/2" shorter than a 97 4Runner isn't going to get me anywhere.

 

 

Does the pulsating change when the engine is revved? If so, what changes?

It almost sounds like the internal regulator is having a sense issue. Make sure all wires to the alternator have good continuity. (I had an issue with the yellow "charge" wire)

Try upgrading the "big 3" and see if that does it.

The big three are wires connecting:
1) Battery+ to alternator (needs a fuse in-line, 150-200 amps, depending on alternator output)
2) Engine block to chassis
3) Battery- to chassis

 

Has to be some sort of regulator issue bench test is fine but when on my truck I got it read through the battery which was the regulator. I've seen lots with this problem. All my wires I've check three times making sure they all have good contact. Still does it.