Anyone use this tool before?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Lexus...QQcmdZViewItem

 

Nope. Just made my own, for a 3.4 Take a peice of 1/4" or 3/8" flatbar at least 2 1/2" wide, and about 23" to 24" long.

Drill a hole at one end to 11/32", measure out to 2 7/8" mark and center punch that hole, and drill it to 11/32".

Now in the center between the two bolt holes, use a hole saw about 1 1/4" diameter, bore that hole. This is for the socket to fit through.

Bolt it up with the puller bolts that you should have, let the long end of the bar swing up under the frame, and break the pulley bolt loose.

I used a 1/2" breaker bar, and a 3' length of black pipe.

 

Or just use a good impact gun. (I used a buddys 1000 ft-lb Ingersol Rand 1/2" drive... Worked like a charm)

Or put a 1/2" drive ratchet on it, with a cheater bar (piece of pipe/tube) long enough to contact the frame, and TAP the starter. (By tap I mean pull the EFI relay, then bump the ignition switch to the start position quickly)

 

All excellent suggestions..I used the starter method to break the pulley bolt free. But see the other thread here about crankshaft pulley wobble before you re-install.

You need 250 Nm (184 lbs-ft) on a 3.4 Crank pulley or it will come lose. The biggest problem it seems is with just using an impact gun and not torquing correctly.

David

 

I keep seeing the 184 ft-lb number but it is actually higher than that (see below):
People should also be using loctite to make sure it stays put.

 

Yeah my 2001 FSM shows 217 ft-lbs too.

Interesting that tool on e-bay doesn't say it will work for the 3.4 V6 (5VZFE).

I'm going to fab one up myself. I found some steel pins that fit the holes perfect and I'll drill some holes in some thick plate scrap and put the pins into the plate and weld a long piece of pipe to that.

There is a pic and drawings of a homemade tool in this timing belt write-up: http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/timing_belt/

 

i just fabed one up out of angle iron. I choose to use 2 adacent bolts which leaves the center open for your socket without having to drill a 2" hole in it.

ps the same angle iron bar has a diffrent set of holes to double as my cam sproket holder also.

 

Thanks for the update on the torque spec.

I wonder if some of the reason more than a few folks are having this issue of the pulley backing off after a dealer visit is that 184 lbs-ft is still listed in some places.

The data base I use is an Industry standard for some shops and its WRONG !

Obviously, an FSM would always be the right source.

David