95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

crank bolt

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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 02:19 PM
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From: springfield mo.
crank bolt

doin timing belt this weekend is the crank bolt left hand or right hand thread?
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 02:25 PM
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From: Port Coquitlam, BC
Regular thread, righty tighty, lefty loosy.
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 02:28 PM
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From: spfld, MA
if it's an auto you will need a specail tool...if it's a stick put i in 5th gear and try to lossen the bolt
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 02:45 PM
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and make SURE you use a new bolt and torque to proper torque spec (217 ft lbs IIRC)
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 05:00 PM
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From: spfld, MA
the 3.0L you torque it to 189ft lbs
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 05:24 PM
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Different engines have different specs. The 5VZFE crank bolt spec is 217 ft-lbs, I'd even use locktite. Use a torque wrench, don't assume an impact wrench will be tight enough.
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 05:48 PM
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Different engines have different specs. The 5VZFE crank bolt spec is 217 ft-lbs, I'd even use locktite. Use a torque wrench, don't assume an impact wrench will be tight enough.

Yep what he said.

Aaron
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Old Apr 3, 2008 | 06:51 PM
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From: springfield mo.
thanks everyone much appreciated
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 11:53 AM
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From: Port Coquitlam, BC
Originally Posted by LTrunner
if it's an auto you will need a specail tool...if it's a stick put i in 5th gear and try to lossen the bolt
Or just use the starter
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Old Apr 4, 2008 | 12:03 PM
  #10  
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From: Oklahoma State
Originally Posted by eric-the-red
Or just use the starter
That may work for loosing the bolt, but not tighting it.

Here's what I made to hold it:




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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 09:46 PM
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From: Vancouver Island , Canada
I think I'm hooped. I had a large breaker bar with 2 feet of pipe on the end of it. I still could not break the bolt free. I was flexing the bar and thought something was going to break or maybe it was left hand thread. Now I know that it is right hand for sure. I'll lean on it untill it comes free or something breaks.
Roger
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Old Apr 7, 2008 | 10:51 PM
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Crank the motor with the wire off the coil and the wrench under the passenger side frame rail.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 10:34 AM
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I used a 2inch by 3 ft steel channel. Drilled 3 holes and braced it on the frame rail. First time I did it I took apart my gorilla rack for the steel supports. It all worked. I just reused my bolt. Figured that the dealership does and don't hear of too many of the crank bolts falling out. I did loctite the bolt just to make sure. I figure 217 ft lbs isn't coming off soon but who knows.
Kevin

Last edited by Sicarius428; Apr 8, 2008 at 10:35 AM.
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Old Apr 8, 2008 | 02:24 PM
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From: Ontario
crank bolt

i just finished my oil pump on a '96...serious problems getting the crank bolt out...princess auto and got a disposable 3/4 drive ratchet...the great canadian tire and bought a $20 chain wrench (vise grips with chain) a 19mm socket and short extension and one final piece of alum. tube as a "persuader" and off it came...absolutely a right hand thread...
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 02:58 PM
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From: Michigan
We have been lucky at the shop and the Ingersol Rand 2135TiMAX 1/2" drive impact usually walks them right off. If you don't have a compressor, then these home made tools are the hot ticket!
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Old Apr 9, 2008 | 03:15 PM
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There's a "rope trick" popular with old Volvo DIY'ers. It involves feeding a length of rope down your plug hole.

http://www.brickboard.com/RWD/volvo/...ope_trick.html


I've never tried it myself--just sounds too fishy--and not sure it would work on these engines.
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Old Apr 10, 2008 | 12:14 AM
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That sounds like a great way to get grit in the combustion chamber. I've heard of it before, and not on my Toyota.
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