Here's the deal. I have the 15" wheel package on my 4Runner. I'm getting tired of replacing my Autozone rotors every 6 months (free with warranty) and am more in favor of either going the brembo route or upgrading to the 16" wheels and then to the Tundra calipers/rotors combo. My pros for each:

Pro Brembo:
I keep my stock wheels which I like
Cheaper than the upgrades
Tires stay in the standard measurements (ex: 31" or 33")
Cheaper steel wheels for 15"


Pro Tundra swap:
No more warping
16" wheels look taller to me
More mods to brag about

 

15" with brembos

 

15" brembo

 

the benefits you listed for keeping the 15" wheels and using brembos outweigh the advantages of doing the upgrade. plus youd have to buy new tires that fit the 16" since your current ones will no longer work. you will still be able to stop

 

brembo solids... just put them on my 16inchers... they are awesome get some good ceramic pads also

 

I'd fix the problem that is causing you to warp/mess up rotors every 6 months as that is NOT normal wear/usage regardless of what you have on there. Until you fix the problem or change your driving style causing this abnormal wear, it will continue no matter what you put in there.

Do you brake a lot while in curves? That'll do it every time...put rotors on my wife's car 3 times in 2 years when we lived on a windy 2 lane country road before we had kids and she had a sports car.

 

What kind of pads are you using?

Also, I agree with waskillywabbit. I've used Autozone blank rotors for years (on my race cars), and they've held up to some of the worst abuse you could throw at them. Getting Brembo's isn't going to solve your problem. I'll stand next to the Autozone Duralast rotors to any others out there.

 

I to have to agree with wabbit on this one....

 

Another option:

Buy a set of stock OEM Toyota rotors and pads and forget about it. You should be able to get 75k or more out of OEM brakes.

When I changed my pads and got the rotors resurfaced at 80k they didn't even really need it. I only did it because I was switching to manual hubs so I had everything apart.

I do not advocate using anything other than OEM brake pads, they wear well and they do not produce the brake dust aftermarket pads do.

 

From my knowledge...OEM pads are what causes the problem. They are hard compound and wear VERY slowly (sometimes 100k) and more therfore not producing any brake dust. The downside is that they don't absorb heat well enough leaving it all to the rotor and if you're not a granny driver, you will get warped rotors period. Maybe you should try going with some low-dust soft compund rotors to see if that'll solve your problem.

 

As others said, rotors are rotors. As long you stay away from the cheap bi-metal junkyard brewed crap (the ones that are >~$30/each, don't even know if those exist for the 4Runner), then they're fine. I don't know why people think Brembo makes some high and mighty rotors, but they're just regular old cast iron rotors created from the same OEM specs that every major rotor manufacturer has.

Since you can get Brembos for ~$36/ea., which happens to be cheaper than I can get rotors at Checker, then I suppose theres no reason not to use them, based on cost alone.

Unless you're towing /andor living in mountainous terrain, then I guarantee your problem lies elsewhere, either in pad choice, improper lug nut torque, caliper performance or driving style.

Rebuild your calipers, install some new rotors, torque your wheels to the same value and try a good pad, like the Hawk LTS. Or install the 16" brakes and find 15" wheels in an offset that clears them if you think you need the moderate increase in brake power.

The Tundra "upgrade" certainly isn't all it's hyped to be unless you tow or ride the brakes.

 

I don't ride my brakes too hard. I slow before I stop and do not slam the brakes at the last minute at red lights so my driving style shouldnt be the problem. My rear brakes have been adjusted too so I know that's out. I'm using semi-metallic brake pads and autozone rotors. Not sure of the brand of pads but they werent the cheapo organics because I was tired of the brake dusts. Do you think the pads might be too hard for the rotors?

 

I respectfully disagree with your opinion.

I drive my truck like I stole it and have only ran OEM pads and still the original rotors for 117k miles. My truck stops just fine, even with 35's.

 

I am actually very glad you disagree, because I knew I would get that response one way or another. The truth of the matter is that my reasoning is still correct.

Maybe the difference is the fact that yours is a 2000? Different rotors? A little newer brake design?

I have a warped rotors problem and I don't drive it easy at all, so how else do you explain the warping on my truck but not on yours if not for the above?

 

I just put on Napa rotors and pads and they've been great so far. Here is what my trusty mechanic says about my rotor concerns:

"The "warping" problem is from letting the brakes cool in one spot on the rotor. This causes damage to one section of the rotor, which leads to the vibration under braking. The only time the rotors build enough heat is coming off the highway via the offramp. The way to aviod this uneven heat disappation is to creep forward as you pull up to the stop sign and never completely stop. This should allow for even cooling across the entire rotor surface."

I tend to disagree with this analysis because everything else i drive has been fine until the T4R. This is my 1st vehicle with braking problems and it seems a lot of people have the same problem. I have followed these directions though and have no problems yet. if these continue to work well, i'll re-post. BTW, i have a '99.

 

Not sure...can weather affect brakes? It's super dry here where as it's humid where you live, right? I used to live in PA, again very humid and warped rotors were always a problem there too.

I also assume that warping could be due to hot brakes getting cooled by going through water; it almost never rains here.

Is your truck an auto or stick? I have a stick, maybe I use the brakes less, because I can down shift.

I don't know, just brain storming. I do know that I will continue to use OEM stuff, because it works for me.

 

My 2 cents:

First, who am I? I've done performance driving instruction on racetracks for ~20 years and have towed my track car with 4Runners since 1998. My '98 still had its original pads & rotors when I traded it @ 75K miles. It had towed in mountains, in hot weather, in most any conditions you can think of. When I traded it in, the brakes were like new!

What do I do that you don't? First, I use the brakes only as hard as is necessary. If I see a red light ahead, I immediately get off the gas and use the brakes as little as possible. If I have to make a hard stop, I don't keep the brake pedal applied when I'm stopped. If rotors/pads are hot, keeping the brakes applied promotes uneven cooling/warping of the rotors, and can lead to transfer of pad material to rotors, which gives the 'pulsating' feeling associated with warped rotors.

I've gotten my '98 'Runner's brakes so hot they completely faded (my '03 is much better, thank you, Toyota). I'm convinced that my diligence in staying off the brakes when I'm stopped and they're hot has made the difference.

If you routinely come smoking up to a stop and keep your foot on the brakes with hot rotors/pads, you should expect to replace rotors and pads often, IMHO. Any competent driving instructor will tell you not to use your brakes at a stop when they're hot!!

Regards,

 

I went to brembos and haven't had a problem since. They are a lot thicker then stock yota ones.

 

Have you considered steel braided lines for the front brakes? I haven't had experience with them, but from what I've heard they make a noticeable difference in terms of pedal pressure and response.

I plan on doing this once I figure out what to do with my rotors as well.

 

Read post #12 I do not slam on the brakes at the last minute... several people with 3rd gens have had the same problems with rotors warping and either go with a Tundra rotor/caliper set up or upgrade to brembo rotors. I do not know of any other problems other than just Toyota putting on the wrong caliper/rotor setup for a heavier vehicle as other members theorized.