billkmiami

1997 4-Runner- 3.4 motor- read all the posts and have found this is a common problem- trying to find out the final outcome to most of these posts?? April (2013) Napa Battery- April 2013 stater relay- rebuilt starter- connections are tight- clean battery terminals- new key tumbler- no known battery drains besides the alarm and radio and ECM.....turn truck over and all you hear are clicks- last time a new battery seemed to help but one year later same issue- I will check my grounds- any other solutions you guys have found to solve your similar problem? thanks!!

Jomoka

The contacts in the starter solenoid tend to go out. No need for a whole new rebuilt starter - just get replacement contacts from the dealer. Removing and replacing the starter isn't fun, but replacing the contacts isn't that hard.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Did you rebuild the starter??

Was it off the shelf from Who??

What do your battery terminals look like??

What is your starter use like ?? Brutal like mine 5 or more starts and stops within 10 miles of driving.

I up grade all my ground cables to at least 1/0 welding cable or bigger.

I seem to not suffer from starting and charging issues.

Bottom line guess Poor ground or bad contacts in the starter solenoid from poor quality control.

Jomoka

Do the lights dim when it clicks?

RAD4Runner

Assuming your battery and connections are all good...

Exactly what clicks?
Starter relay only?
Starter relay and starter solenoid?

If only the starter relay clicks, did you check if starter relay contact power supply is wired properly to battery (via proper fuse) and not to starter contacts of ignition switch (a flaw in the in 86-88 22R-E wiring)?

If solenoid clicks but still no crank, yes, quite possibly solenoid contacts.

billkmiami

Rebuilt starter from Napa- Battery terminals are clean silver! Clicking seems to come directly from the starter- starter relay makes no noises- I am going to have the battery load tested tonight and check/clean my grounds- also will clean/check my starter connections..........what am i missing?

billkmiami

Light use on the starter- back and forth to school- start up in the am- start up in the pm going home

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

How many miles on the vehicle.

I still lean toward a bad ground or several.

Pipsisiwah

Replace the contacts inside the starter solenoid housing.

billkmiami

187000 miles- i will load test the battery tonight and clean all my connections/grounds and report back in the am! thanks!

TheDurk

Hopefully then you will realize you have to pull that starter and replace the solenoid contacts.

22REFORME

also possible to replace the contacts without removing the starter....

vital22re

iTrader: (2)

check to make sure you have 12 v to the post at the starter.
Then make sure you're getting over 10 v to the starter signal wire when the key is turned to start.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I for one sure would not attempt to replace the starter solenoid contacts still on the truck.

Please let me know the next time your going to do this I want to watch.

Better yet I will drive my 2000 Tacoma up and let you change mine your not that far away.

Jomoka

Maybe he's an arthroscopic surgeon by day.

billkmiami

Load tested my battery last night and my Napa battery exceeded factory battery specs from what is shown on the battery- cleaned all my grounds as well as the battery posts- all were in excellent shape! Re-installed my Napa battery and when the key is turned- all I hear is a single click from the starter- pulled the battery and installed it in my Taco and it started right up so I know the battery is fine- I am in year four of my five year warranty with my Napa starter- starter gets pulled tonight and I will have it tested- all points to my starter as the problem- as suggested with changing the posts!! Thanks!!

Pipsisiwah

Please post back whatever Napa told you about the starter and its warranty. Specifically, did they replace the starter or just pro-rate it...

RAD4Runner

Click "from the starter" is really the starter solenoid actuating. If you are getting full power to solenoid coil (10V at terminal as vital22RE says ^^), that means solenoid is energizing. But if still no crank, either:
1) Solenoid is mechanically (stuck?) not going through it's full travel to fully close contacts,
2) Contacts are bad,
3) You are not getting 12V at screw post from battery like vital22RE suggested ^^
4) Starter motor itself is electrically defective.

Pls keep us posted

22REFORME

http://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-ge...al-thread.html

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

One goes to all the trouble to loosen the starter just not remove it from the truck.

To me that is the same as pulling the starter out .