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Changing Oxygen Sensor when nuts are rusted

Old 04-27-2010, 07:14 PM
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Damn I thought I was the only one who's O2 sensor looked like that!!
Old 04-28-2010, 04:18 AM
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Originally Posted by survivorman97
Just out of pure curiosity do you really need to replace one of these at a set mileage or time period? Mine has been on for over 100,000 miles.

they will die between 100,000 and 150,000 miles almost guaranteed.
it is the ceramic element which just loses enough molecules so it won't
function, or it gets clogged

or the heater circuit dies.

but you only need to replace them when they blow a code

you may improve mileage 1-3% or so if you replace them
before they blow a code (the front one)
Old 04-28-2010, 03:39 PM
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Reading these comments, it seems to me that the front sensor controls fuel mixture and the downstream sensor checks on the performance of the cat converter. This sound about right?

We got the dreaded check engine light so I ran my scanner on the 4Runner that the downstream sensor was out of range. Got a price from the stealership of about $364 for the sensor and another 3 hours ($357) to perform the extensive work involved in the changeout. NAPA Grand Forks helped us out for $110.09 and some 15 minutes of my time got the job done....thanks to the great info above I had no fear of jumping on this problem. I'm $600 ahead of the game just for hanging with you guys. Beers are on me!

Joe
Old 04-28-2010, 05:29 PM
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great pics and write up
Old 04-29-2010, 04:38 AM
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Originally Posted by Homer49
Reading these comments, it seems to me that the front sensor controls fuel mixture and the downstream sensor checks on the performance of the cat converter. This sound about right?

We got the dreaded check engine light so I ran my scanner on the 4Runner that the downstream sensor was out of range. Got a price from the stealership of about $364 for the sensor and another 3 hours ($357) to perform the extensive work involved in the changeout. NAPA Grand Forks helped us out for $110.09 and some 15 minutes of my time got the job done....thanks to the great info above I had no fear of jumping on this problem. I'm $600 ahead of the game just for hanging with you guys. Beers are on me!

Joe
you MUST be bs-ing us. 600 bucks to change a 30 minute, 150 dollar part ?

A dealership parts counter only charges 211 for the a/f up front
and 150 for the o2 out back.

holy crap I am in the wrong business

Last edited by BigBallsMcFalls; 04-29-2010 at 04:39 AM.
Old 04-29-2010, 06:32 AM
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Maybe they were adding in replacing the bungs because the studs were rusted in and too bad to reuse. And of course since Toyota doesn't sell the bungs individually they have to replace the whole section of exhaust.

Last edited by mt_goat; 05-24-2010 at 04:39 PM.
Old 04-29-2010, 01:52 PM
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BS? Oh, I wish!

The bigger problem is that we are running 2 Toyotas, a 4Runner and a Rav4.

Another short story to expand the point - the 4Runner turned out to have bad front struts....actually they're coils over shocks but I guess that struts sound more scientific and more worth the money. Anyway, these cost $437.40 with $291.76 for labor. Picked up a pair for $93 each and will replace both front shocks this weekend. With the help of the wise folk here, I will henceforth avoid the stealership $119 per hour labor rate.

I will save the $700 gas filler and the $650 driveshaft tales for a cold rainy night story.

I think I've got the process straight, but are there any hints on changing out the shocks?

Joe
Old 05-02-2010, 11:17 AM
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Got the front shocks changed out this morning in 2 1/2 hours. New units cost me $94.19 each and I avoided $437.40 & $291.76 labor for each of them. I'm $1,200 ahead today The great part of high Stealership pricing is the amount of money I save doing it myself. I'm now looking forward to the next problem so I can keep adding up my savings you guys keep helping me collect.

Many thanks and beers on me when we link up!

Joe
Old 05-24-2010, 03:06 PM
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Originally Posted by rjkjoe
Thanks for your compliments. I have a suggestion for using nylock nuts for this application. I would be afraid the heat from the exhaust would melt the nylon from the nuts and render them useless. You may want to check them in a week or so! Just a thought!
Yea that isn't going to function at exhaust temperatures.
You might get lucky and char the nylon insert to the
point the residue loads the stud threads.

A better approach would be either a deformed locknut
or a serrated-bottom flange locknut. Also IIRC aluminum
based anti-seize isn't recommended for exhaust use
but rather requires the copper based compound.
Old 06-02-2010, 11:25 AM
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Originally Posted by mt_goat
Good work, except it would be best to go to the dealer and buy a couple steel lock nuts. Lock nuts >much greater than> lock washers
Picked up 2 of the nuts from the dealership today; $4/each= $8 for 2 nuts!!

I guess I've spent money on more useless things though...
Old 06-03-2010, 05:55 AM
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Originally Posted by okie81
Picked up 2 of the nuts from the dealership today; $4/each= $8 for 2 nuts!!

I guess I've spent money on more useless things though...
Ouch, you can order them here for $1.21/each (part # 90080-17187). https://www.1sttoyotaparts.com/catalogs.html
Old 06-04-2010, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by TheDurk
You don't get it. Leave the anti-seize off and corrosion sets in the first winter and locks it better than any stinkin' lockwasher or lock nuts. Then, when it's time to change, just squeeze those nuts with your pliers and they crumble right off. Piece of cake. Why do you think the factory avoids any use of anti-sieze? Get with the modern application of Japanese fastener technology. It called Fastener Regulation Assisted by Corrosion--FRAC.
I always learned that "Cross-threading is better than Loctite any day!"
Old 09-21-2010, 03:07 AM
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Changing Oxygen Sensor when nuts are rusted

Hi, I have a 2000 4Runner with a PO136 code. I changed the forward O2 sensor no problem. Same code came back. I tried changing the rear one.
However there are no bolts there that look anything like a bolt just a lot of rust. I am hesistant to start chipping away at whats left of the bolts for fear of damaging the threads. Any help would be appreciated, I really don't want to take this to a dealer.
Old 09-21-2010, 03:50 AM
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Originally Posted by ctate
Hi, I have a 2000 4Runner with a PO136 code. I changed the forward O2 sensor no problem. Same code came back. I tried changing the rear one.
However there are no bolts there that look anything like a bolt just a lot of rust. I am hesistant to start chipping away at whats left of the bolts for fear of damaging the threads. Any help would be appreciated, I really don't want to take this to a dealer.
First off, thanks for searching!!

Can you take a pic of what you're talking about?

Fink
Old 09-21-2010, 05:00 AM
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Originally Posted by ctate
... Any help would be appreciated, I really don't want to take this to a dealer.
Yeah I wouldn't go to a dealer for that. If you need help get the correct sensor and take it to a good muffler shop.
Old 09-21-2010, 05:57 AM
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Do you need to disconnect the battery when changing the rear 02 sensor?
Old 09-21-2010, 06:28 AM
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Originally Posted by hurricanes99
Do you need to disconnect the battery when changing the rear 02 sensor?
That's always a good idea.
Old 09-23-2010, 07:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Fink
First off, thanks for searching!!

Can you take a pic of what you're talking about?

Fink
I will do that this weekend. Thanks for the interest to help..

New to this site. Pic is way over site limit of 48K.
How do I post a pic of normal 1 Mbyte size?
Ok Got it now

Well after about another 4 hours of squirting PB blaster, NAval jelly and a
lot of pounding I finally got the so called bolts off. I actually wound up using a wood chisel too pound at the bottom of the nut where I did not see any threads showing thru and chipped away at the rusted nut. It finally broke free and I was able to pry it off. I bought new stainless nuts and washers at Lowes this morning. Now all I need to do is order the new O2 sensor. Bset price I see is at Amazon. Denso 234-4153 for $62 . I hope they solves my issues. Will post when I know.
Attached Thumbnails Changing Oxygen Sensor when nuts are rusted-p9240094_c.jpg  

Last edited by ctate; 09-25-2010 at 09:00 AM. Reason: Progress
Old 09-23-2010, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Homer49
Reading these comments, it seems to me that the front sensor controls fuel mixture and the downstream sensor checks on the performance of the cat converter. This sound about right?

We got the dreaded check engine light so I ran my scanner on the 4Runner that the downstream sensor was out of range. Got a price from the stealership of about $364 for the sensor and another 3 hours ($357) to perform the extensive work involved in the changeout. NAPA Grand Forks helped us out for $110.09 and some 15 minutes of my time got the job done....thanks to the great info above I had no fear of jumping on this problem. I'm $600 ahead of the game just for hanging with you guys. Beers are on me!

Joe
You live in Grand Forks? Been there many times visiting family. You don't often see ND'ans around (I was born there, but moved away when very young)
Old 09-23-2010, 08:27 AM
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I had a different occurrence with my O2 sensors. One nut, the thread ripped off, had to slide the stripped nut off, then get a die set to clean the threads. The other nut stayed rusted on, and the whole stud came out of the exhaust peice. I couldn't get the hut off without damaging the threads, so I just put a grade 10 bolt instead of the stud.

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