Blake has manual hubs. If he had drive flanges, his angles would be a problem.

CV angle increases wear on DF trucks, making them need replacement more quickly.

The OP needs:

A SAS
Weld both diffs
Use 12" lift blocks.

 

Love 12" lift blocks. I'd put a gusset on them though, and possibly a breather mod as well.

 

You can read all about the body lift installation process on the web page below:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...ft_HowTo.shtml

You can combine lifts in certain situations. All depends on if the lifts use independent components to each other or not. For example if you have a 3" lift with 3" lift springs and another 3" lift with 3" lift springs, you can't "combine" the 2 pair of 3" lift springs to magically get a 6" lift spring. Also, there are limits to certain components, such as the front suspension/steering/axle, that limit how much you can lift in in a given form and still have it work. There is a reason that say a full 6" lift kit, with all the drop brackets/spindles/etc., is so much more expensive. You need to change out much more of the stock suspension/steering parts in order to make that additional lift work.

Now it is usually possible to combine a suspension and body lift. Why/how? Just think of your truck as a frame with suspension/axles/wheels/tires sitting on the ground. Then the body sits on top of the frame. You could basically pull the whole body off the frame and the frame and the rest of the truck would just sit there. It could care less if the body is there or not (aside from the weight of the body) or at what height it sits above the frame (aside from the changes in center of gravity from the lift). Likewise, the body could care less what is sitting under it. It could be sitting right on the frame, 1"-3" above it on body lift blocks or even sitting beside the frame on some saw horses. So in that sense, a body lift and a suspension lift are quite independent of each other:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/ForSale/...it.shtml#Lifts

 

dont forget chrome step bars

 

here lets see if this works, i wheel my 6in lifted IFS A LOT........ broke transfercase due to supercharger power...

 

That doesnt even make sence?

 

Did it take much to get the Tacoma lift to work with the 4Runner?

 

Nope, pretty straight forward...but there is no going back if you install this. Reason, you have to cut out the front cross member for the lift to work. I had a buddy do the lift for me... I lucked out and found this lift "used". ALOT cheaper than buying a new system. I only needed the front ProComp IFS lift since our 4runners don't use blocks in the rear as the ProComp Tacoma lift is designed for.

No welding, etc. Just alittle cutting to remove the cross member. It rides nice too. I am using my stock front shocks. Rear LC shocks. Drives straight, and no vibrations.