Sorry to see another one go down I wouldn't buy a new Toyota rad for $560 or even half that. I would possibly even keep the radiator (if its still cooling ok) and connect up the ATF inlet and outlet tubes with a piece of hose and bypass the cooler. Just flush it out good and get an external cooler to replace the failed internal cooler. If you need (or want) a new radiator anyway just go with an aftermarket radiator, they couldn't be any worse than the OEM crap.

Some have had good luck with flushing the tranny, so I'd say your chances are better than 50/50 you won't have another problem with it, but it all depends on how long you have driven with coolant for tranny fluid.

I would say there is little chance the ATF has damaged the cooling system, just do a good flush of the whole system and it should be fine.

Good luck and please update us on how you do.

 

The hose that comes with the kit is 11/32 and I can't find it. I tried 3/8 and it seems like it will be fine after all it is only 1/32 bigger. Was the extra hose you guys used 3/8? did the 3/8 hose fit tight. 5/16 hose seems like it would be way too small. Thanks.

Mike

 

I used 3/8" hose - both when I initially installed the trans cooler and when I bypassed the radiator. It's been installed for 7,000 miles so far.

Good luck!

Steve.

 

Yeah I used 3/8" too, 5/16" is too small.

 

Well I finally installed the cooler today and it went well. I had to purchase another piece of line as the kit did not have enough for my liking. Do you guys have trouble getting the fluid into the hot range on the dipstick? I filled the fluid into the cold section when the trans is cold but I have yet to see the fluid raise into the hot section. Should I add more fluid or is it ok as long as it is filled when cold. The truck has always had the fluid between the cold and hot sections when it was checked hot.

 

Nope, but I do sometimes have to drive quite a while to get the ATF hot.


I would, the cold level is just to get you close.

 

To get the transmission heated up, I followed a posting I saw a while back (it was either on this board or someone on this board provided a link).

After driving around for about 15 minutes, put the vehicle in Park with your foot on the brake pedal, set the parking brake, and then cycle through each gear leaving it in each gear for about 10 seconds.

I did this a couple of times last week as I had just drained/refilled the transmission. It took 4 quarts on the nose to get the fluid level to the HOT mark. I saw 4 quarts mentioned in the FSM and online somewhere, so I started with 3.5 quarts and added a little at a time. Like yourself, I didn't want to overfill it to start with.

Hope this helps...

Steve.

 

So using the Tru Cooler 4454, is enough cooling to completely by-pass the OEM tranny cooler?

I live in Kentucky, it gets below freezing sometimes (can reach 0 and negative with wind chill factors). Would I need to do anything special besides bolt on the Tru Cooler? I hear about another part needed for really cold environments, Im not sure I fully understand this part of the setup.

Would a tranny temp gauge be needed?

Also, currently I dont do much off-road or towing. It seems like this upgrade should still be done, correct?

Great postings though, thanks guys.

 

I'm looking at bypassing the stock cooler also and putting in a 4454 and maybe mounting a fan on it Because here inTexas the temps can hit the high 90s or even 100 at times.

Those that have bypassed your stock coolers, how well is the 4454 or equivalent keeping it cool ??

 

Here in Spokane the temps can run 90-100 in the summer. I bipassed the OEM for a 4454. I'm thinking about adding a second 4454 and a temp gauge because I'm towing. I have no idea what my temperature is, but when I feel the cooler it's usually either "luke warm" or slightly hot to the touch. It doesn't seem to get as hot as the radiator, even while towing in the summer. Real scientfic eh?

 

i have a 95 runner with the 3vz, i just put a new head gasket, tstat, water pump, hoses and radiator in the vehicle. I bought the truck with a blown head gasket, and am unfamiliar with normal driving. But now that it is running the tranny seems very warm, a lot of radiant heat coming through the floor. The center console is very warm, and rug around it. is this normal?

 

Yeah that's normal, especially after long drives. I think that heat comes from the exhaust cross-over at the head of the tranny tunnel.

 

By removing the line from the radiator, you lose the ability to "pre-heat" the fluid.

For extremely cold climates, like the north pole, there might be issues.

Of course, if your vehicle sits in your driveway at said temp for two days, it is the very same thing. Does the vehicle move out of the driveway? Great.

If the fluid (oil) were to freeze or become so viscous that it won't flow through the tranny, I am thinking there will be other issues with your truck. Like flat spots in the tires, broken belts etc...

 

To give back to the thread that keeps on giving...

I had the pink slurry/strawberry quick thing happen the other day. Have not done the flush or anything yet b/c I have been in significant pain due to a bulging L5 disc. Picked up a cheapo 5 gallon bucket of ATF for $50. Ordered a new radiator for $150 delivered. Already have an aux cooler. I could have used the radiator and bypassed the tranny cooler but decided against it. Check rockauto for radiators - best prices around.

BTW - my radiator failed at 175K.

Will be flushing the tranny today after work with as much tranny fluid as it takes.

Flushing the radiator and then plugging - probably just just put in a jumper hose if i cannot find plugs.

Boy oh boy will I have a boat load of waste fluids to recycle when complete.

Final Step will be a complete flush job at the dealer. Have to bring it in for a wheel balance and alignment anyway.

 

Maybe an obvious question... but does this happen to the tacomas w/ the 5VZFE? Do they use the same rad? If they don't have this problem with a different rad, could we make the taco rad fit?

 

mine failed around 100-110 k as well..... failed at connection between radiator and internal tank, had to replace entire radiator. Had one overnight delivered from local radiator shop for $250, replaced next day, ran 2.5 cases of tranny fluid through it before it was good (run for a few seconds, let tranny pump bad fluid into bucket, turn off, repeat ~.25-.5 qt at a time until clean)... also drained and flushed coolant twice.

When mine failed the entire fitting came off of the radiator, making it impossible to just run a jumper hose and skip the stock cooler, it had been leaking inside at first, which is why I planned on just skipping it

I also installed an external tranny cooler (had thought about bypassing stock, but since it was new, just added it anyway). Make sure to add it inline with the stock cooler, AFTER it, since it is more efficient.

 

My guess would be cross reference both Tacoma and 4 Runner part numbers. If the match, good to go.....but then again if they do match then the Tacoma would be in the same boat.

 

My 98 4Runner 5VZFE AT Radiator assembly PN is 16400-75180. Apparently it is superseded by PN 16410YZZAJ.

I wonder if the updated PN is a fix for this? Anyone know?

Also, what is the 5VZFE 4x4 Taco AT Radiator assembly PN?

 

The second part number doesn't seem to be an oem toyota part number.

 

Whew! im glad ive stumbled upon this thread as I have 110k on my beloved dd.
I've just placed an order for a Tru-Cool 4454 tranny cooler (make that 3-day air shipping pls!)