What part # remote bypass did you use and how does it work? Do you have any install pics of the bypass? I live in Quispamsis where are you?

 

Here is the info for the remote thermal bypass

Tru-Cool Part: 708-4739

Link

I think I remember seeing this info somewhere, but I couldn't find it this morning. When the fluid is cold, I believe the port that comes from the tranny (hot fluid) is open to the three other ports. Since the pressure is the same at the two ports that go to the cooler, you get no flow through to the cooler and all fluid returns to the tranny pan through the last port. As the fluid temperature warms up, the path between the port that receives fluid from the transmission and the port that returns fluid to the transmission closes off. This forces flow through the cooler.

I don't currently have any install pics of the bypass. It's installed right next to my temperature gauge sender (you can see pictures of the sender in post #130 in this thread... the bypass is installed just to the left of the sender in the pictures. the hose configuration is a bit different now that I've bypassed the stock cooler.)

I live in Saint John. Funny... 15 minutes away from each other and we meet on a discussion forum on the web.

 

That's cool man. I have probably seen your rig around. I would like to see your setup. You
Can call me 647-6461

 

Hey guys i love the progess of this thread and have learned alot but i have one question. I plan on doing this with the tru cool 4454 like everyone else but my question is i live in North Carolina and it is very rarely below freezing during the day, even during winter usually it warms up and is below freezing over night and in the mornings. Do you think i would be ok without the bypass valve? or should i get that as well just to be safe?

 

Yes!

 

Yep, you will be fine. I only did it because it gets to -30 at times in the winter. It just doesn't make sense to have the fluid going to the cooler (even with the bypass in it) and have that fluid traveling through 3 or 4 feet of hose in those temps.

 

Alright I bought the true cool 4454 and plan on installing it this weekend. My question is no one that I've seen had mentioned flaring the ends of the tranny lines once you cut them. Is this just a given? Is it necessary and if so then what size are the lines on third gens?

Thanks,

Rich

 

No flaring necessary. You will be using tranny fluid hoses. That is currently what is installed on your 4Runner. It starts off as hard lines at the transmission. Once the hard lines get to just under the front of the engine, they change to transmission hose. You can disconnect the hoses there, and connect your new transmission hoses there. There may not be enough hose supplied with the cooler (they supply 4 ft of hose), depending on where you want to mount the cooler. If you have to buy more, make sure it's transmission hose (I bought mine at a local tranny repair shop, and I'm pretty sure it was 5/16" hose), and not regular old air line hose or something like that.

 

I purchased the Hayden at checker for a quick and painless install. purchased extra hose line too.

i also purchased a hanger bracket and two self taping sheet metal bolts at Ace Hardware. the hanger bracket was attached to the horn bolt to support the top of cooler and the sheet metal screws to attach to lower bumper. if that makes any sense?

 

Thanks.. But I mean the factory tranny lines to prevent fluid from seeping between the metal lines and the rubber trans tubing. I thought maybe after cutting the factory lines the cut end would have to be flared? Has anyone had to do this and if not I guess the hose clamps are enough to keep the fluid from leaking past?

Thanks again for the help.

 

Yes I think I'll go buy some extra line and that cool flex line coving that protects it. I haven't opened the box yet to see what hardware comes with it. Mt_goat hard mounted his but many other have used the thick zip ties that come with it. I'd like to hard mount mine but I guess I'll see once I get in there how hard it is to find a good spot. I don't have the cool skid plate setup like he does.

 

Why would you cut the factory hard line? Just disconnect the rubber lines and use new longer ones, a hose clamp is all the holds them in place.

 

Ah hah light goes on above head.. I haven't taken it apart yet and thought it was like my f250 with hardlines from the tranny to the radiator. If there are rubber lines that connect upto the fittings on the radiator then yes of course that makes it much easier. Thank you!! How much trans line will I need to replace the old line and I read somewhere in this thread that the rubber lines connect under a cross member? I guess I'll figure it out once I get under there and can see it in person.

Thanks again.

 

It depends on where you put the cooler, what comes with the cooler may be enough but I usually need another 3 feet for some reason. Make sure to get ATF hose, not fuel hose, not air hose, not coolant hose. I like the 3/8" but the 5/16" or 11/32" may work too but its just harder to get on and will restrict flow more too.

 

Thanks.. I appreciate it. The strawberry milkshake issue scares me to death.

 

Where are you guys finding the best place to run the lines through the rad support is? I would rather not cut a hole in the rad support.

 

Whereever you go make sure there aren't sharp metal edges against the hose. Use some kind of hose protecter if there is any doubt (a piece of larger hose over it sometimes works).

 

Would i be okay to use a Tru-cool 4452 instead of the 4454? I live in Texas.

 

Some time this year im bypassing as well. If the 4454 works why not.

 

I just experienced the event described here and elswhere in my new (to me) 99 Limited T4R (124000 km) i.e. tranny line failing in rad, both plumbing systems contaminated with each others' fluids. Am quite annoyed. Local Toyota wants $560 (Canadian) to replace rad, recommends multiple flushing of tranny. They also say there's a good chance the friction plates in the tranny have been badly damaged and that flushing won't help; a tranny overhaul will probably be required.
Have seen this serious problem described enough places (now that my own catastrophe has led me to do research that I wish I had done prior) that it makes me wonder if a) anyone's had any success holding Toyota liable, b) what's the best replacement rad, c) what's the probability of contamination having damaged either or both systems that more major work will be required in the short to medium term? Any advice appreciated.