Yep, I am not sure when it happened but during the 2nd day of my baja trip I started hearing this clunking noise from the front. I did not notice much difference in drivability, but there was definitely something there. After setting up camp I looked at the front suspension and found this..

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...7-06-06003.jpg

http://i40.photobucket.com/albums/e2...7-06-06002.jpg


This tells me there are large forces on this structure, and I am just wondering if this is a typical failure mode? I have not had much time to analyze it but it looks like it the link has first bent and then broke into two. I drop down tire pressure to 20 psi and drove approx 40mph. Does anybody have any recommendations on replacement, stock or are there upgrades available for this bar link? Thanks.

 

the same thing happened to me sorta. I broke a sway bar end link and got it replaced with a wabfab one. I havent checked to see how it is holding up yet...im sure there are no problems.

It could of happened due to overtightening of the bolt???

wabfabs havent failed me yet. :bigclap:

 

Happend to me too, but, it was a replacement part I got with my trailmaster kit.

I haven't heard of this happening to many people though.

Since you'll probably be spending some money to get a replacement OEM one, Id suggest buy some quick disconnects.

 

i had the driver's side sway bar lift bracket break. 3/16" steel... ...and am waiting on a replacement. so far the rest is ok.

 

It really looks like something hit it like you said. But if you were going forward when it happened that does not make sense because it would be protected by the CV in the front.

I have heard of this link breaking but never have seen it. Like Matt said they usually break in the threaded area on the top part. And I think that is from over tightening the nut and then hanging a front tire which puts a ton of stress on the end links.

I would replace it with a stock one from a junk yard. Should be like $15. Quick disconnects are over rated in my opinion not because they do not work but because it is so easy to pull the factory ones off while you are airing down. I have it down to a 5 min deal with a 14mm socket and a 17mm wrench. Some sellers of the "quick" disconects have gone to using a nut on the top end of the link anyway so you would still have to get tools out to take it off. So why not grab one more wrench and take that one off also and save nearly $100?

 

This should remind you to disconnect your swaybar when you go down to Baja again. When having your swaybar disconnected, make sure you keep the link tied down somehow or it will migrate into your bumpstops and chew them up, also bending/breaking your link.

 

Thanks for all of the advice. Most of the trip was 'prerunning' type and not so much 'rock climbing' so I figured I did not need to disconnect my swaybars especially since stability was more important. Any recommendations on a junk yard Eric, in SD area? THanks.

 

You dont need no stinkin sway bars. I havent run them for years. You'll get better flex without them, but a bit more body roll around the turns.

Remove them and toss them

 

 

I had mine break in the exact same spot right after I lifted it with the Daystar setup. I was in Moab doing alot of slow flexing. I welded mine several times, usually welded a bolt parallel to the break, then I started sleeving them with tubing and welding the tops closed. I finally gave up and made my own disconnects modeled after 4Crawlers and Lars Dennerts.

Are you lifted? If so you may as well buy or fab some disco's to the correct length. That's why I built mine, to compensate for the lift, I also lengthned my rears as well.

 

It looks to me like one side was extended and the other was stuffed or close to it causing the sway bar link to buckle and break under stress (not hit as it looks like at first glance.....you can tell by the fact there are no marks on the side of the link and the extreme angle of the bent area on the link....almost assuredly a buckling scenario). Once the buckling happened the link failure was probably not far behind. The prerunning might even add to the stress since the forces working against the tires at speed (compression happens very quickly and although steel is quite resistant, it might help to fatigue the metal in that area that much faster due to heat buildup) might be higher than just normal slow flexing.

Buckling looks pretty clear in this pic:

 

THat makes the most sense out of this so far!

In SD I know of at least 3 yards that have these right now. Just not sure of the name of them. THey are all in one area in Chula Vista and I can drive there but could not tell you exactly how to get there. Let me work on it for you.

Are you local here?

You should come out to the Big Bear Run. I would be glad to pick one of these up for you and hand it off at a run or something.

 

This happened to me as well. I figure I overtightened the endlinks after i put on the stiffer ES endlink bushings. I loosened the rest of them and replaced it with an aftermarket one..This thing is a perfect fit with the ball joint dealie thing, looks stronger and is stainless...all for 40 bucks CDN

and as was said get that thing off asap.. loose swinging metal in that area is probably not good with the cv's, and rack stuff sitting near by.

 

You can take the link off my stock lower arms for a couple bucks...SD local and you don't have to go to the junkyard!

 

i snapped mine as well, passenger side. not sure where, but i think it was on the rocks somewhere. i just removed the whole swaybar and am loving the softer ride as a result. just keep in mind of the body roll. i am not too concerned about this because i am lifted on 33's so speed is never a factor for me.

 

Taco end links are not the same as Runners. Just the nuts that hold them on are the same for the bottom of the Runner links. 17mm.

 

Ah...I tried.

 

I tool the link off, and it does look like it has buckled, and I definatelly don't see any hit marks. I will start calling couple of j. yards tommorow. THanks for all of the input.