So a couple of weeks ago I replaced the LBJs and Outer Tie Rods, as they were both originals, and both shot. Vehicle is an 02 4runner coming up on 200k, so these were both long overdue as the bushings were shot and the LBJs moved for anything. Stopping the vehicle felt like re-entering the atmosphere, so it was time. Interestingly enough, Im pretty sure the LBJs were the originals. The right one still had the japanese symbol on it as opposed to the standard L/R ones. All parts used in the replacement are OEM to include new bolts and Timmy the Toolmans instructional videos and a couple of write ups from the 3rd Gens forum here and on 4runner-forums.

Tie rods werent an issue at all, and the LBJs were much easier than I thought they would be. Right up until I was installing the very last of the 8x 14mm mounting bolts that is. Not sure if my Torque Wrench is off or if I just screwed up, but as I was tightening it, the bolt head sheered off. Completely inside the LBJ. Bolt is going all the way through and out the other side of the knuckle, with locktight on it. Head appears to have broken off just inside the LBJ so there is nothing on the underside to grab on to. The bolt is still completely inside the LBJ and knuckle.

So I took it to the shop to get a 2nd opinion and alignment. And here is where Id like a third opinion. Its a local Midas that I have used for a while, and the specific mechanic I ask to do the work has the same year/model 4runner so hes pretty familiar with the issues of the gen. Iv never had issues with them in the past, and hope I am not now. He tells me there isnt much I can do, but that it shouldnt be too big a deal since the bolt itself is still deeply inside, locktighted, and visibly connecting the LBJ and the knuckle. He also tells me when it comes to suspensions, they dont use a torque wrench, the simply locktight everything, hand thread them, then use an impact wrench to get them good and tight. A little weird to me considering how specific ever write up I read went into getting accurate ft/lbs. My worry is that since I most likely screwed up torquing them (the bolt DID snap), I may have overtightened all of them, and I dont know if thats an issue or not.

I use this rig for offroading and a daily driver. Losing 1 bolt puts about 8% more pressure on the remaining 3 (4x bolts carries 25% of pressure each, 3x bolts carries 33%), so while I can drive it for now, Im not comfortable doing much off the pavement. I want to get this thing fixed, preferably soon, as Im still driving on it and would like to get back to the mountains. The bolt is locktited and still going through both the LBJ and knuckle. The way I see it my options are to either replace both the LBJ and knuckle (NOT preferable), attempt to somehow reverse it out from the top with pliers, possibly a tap and drill by a pro, or ignore it (not going to ignore it!!!). Hoping someone on here has had a similar experience or some insight as to how I can fix this. This thing isnt a rock crawler or anything, but the CO Mountain trails are not exactly gentle and I dont want to lose an LBJ 40 miles from a paved road or cell signal. Trail wise, Id say I take it on trails in the 6-8 rating in terms of abuse and technical difficulty. Any insight at all would be appreciated.

 

I don't have an answer to your question, but I do want to quibble with your math. The pressure on each bolt is 32% more than it was before. (Going from .25X to .333X is an increase of .080X.

.08X/.25X=.32 or 32%

P.S. I use a Snap-on click-type torque wrench. Don't trust those beam wrenches. I learned the hard way.

 

 

Question 1: Did you reuse the old bolts? Normally, I'd not even think twice about using old bolts for stuff like this, but I've seen a few failures on 4Runners where the heads seemed to break off, and it was either over torqued installation, or just bolts weakened from prior use/abuse.

No way I'd leave it with 3 bolts hanging it on. Take off the other three, extract the broken bolt (contrary to what Midas guy says, that broken bolt is doing *almost* nothing, perhaps if the others were already loose, it might hold a little strain in shear?).

Good news is that it is more likely to come out with some vice grips on the broken portion than it would if it broke on disassembly due to the threads being rusted solidly into place.

Consider getting a set of bolts, they're fairly cheap at the dealership.

 

When I bought my LBJ`s The new bolts came with them

 

 

Thanks, and ya. I dont math so good. Wrench was a crappy craftsman one that Iv decided to replace. The locking ring on it kept slipping when you use it, so Im not confident that it was accurate. Useful to know about the LBJ though. That may be the plan, although it will suck having to do that entire side again.

 

I used new bolts, verified through the dealership parts desk by the VIN number. Im thinking ill order a full new set of 4 bolts and redo the entire side.

 

Mine only came with the castle nut and cotter pin. OEM from the dealership. Bought the bolts separately from the dealership.

 

Think Im set on this course of action at this point. In terms of heating the knuckle, do you have a recommended way? I have a handheld torch, but Im not sure if I wanna apply that much heat to a steering column element. I also have a bunch of PB Blaster if that would help.

 

 

Im ordering the bolts and will take them off tomorrow and redo that side. My other worry at this point is that I may have over tightened all 8 bolts. Considering I broke one using the same setting I used on the others, how big of an issue is it tightening the bolts beyond their specified specs? As aoWRS pointed out, a lot of people wouldnt trust a mechanic who would use an impact wrench on these things. If Iv over tightened the other 7 bolts, are they more likely to fail at some point?

 

 

I'd be thinking that too. If the torque wrench is overdoing them all by a bit, and one of them went ahead and popped the head off, the others might not be too far behind.

Normally I'm not a huge stickler for torque specs on bolts (unless they're something like cylinder heads) but this just happens to be a part that has catastrophic failures. Sometimes when the ball joint itself pops apart (OEM only!) but also sometimes when either the 4 smaller bolts break, or the single large nut pops off, in either of those cases it could be bad parts *or* improper torque. Too loose and they'll end up wiggling and failing, too tight and they could end up popping off.

 

Just ordered 8 new bolts, just to be sure. Should be in tomorrow. Also picking up a new torque wrench just to be sure. Im really hoping I can do this without having to take off either of the castle nuts.

 

I just did my CVs without touching the castle nuts.

 

God I hope thats the case. Just got a new torque wrench and some vice grip plyers. Bolts are going to be in tomorrow.

 

So not sure if its better or worse. Got the LBJ off, and you are all correct, the joint itself is not threaded. Worked the broken bolt in question back and forth with lock joint plyers. I was ALMOST able to get it out through the top as that was where there was the most to grab onto. Literally the bolt wiggling in the hole being twisted by my hand before it topped out on the actual steering joint. Iv now attempted to work it back out through the bottom with moderate success, however the bolt is disintegration under the lock joints and its getting significantly harder to grip. Earlier the entire knuckle was hot to the touch from driving, and has since cooled down, making the process even more difficult. Bolt is dead center in the knuckle sticking half out on both top and bottom, with no real good grip from either side. Letting it soak in PB blaster for an hour to see if that helps. I also have a Benzo torch that Im considering heating up the knuckle with, but I dont know if that could cause weakness to the knuckle or not.

On another interesting note, all 3 of the other bolts locktight didnt appear to dry when I took them out. Metal was hot to the touch, but all of them look like I had just put them on. I broke this bolt a couple of weeks ago, so Im not sure if this is a bad sign or not. How long does it take Locktight to solidify?

 

 

No luck. Heated it to the point where I wasnt comfortable that I wouldnt start damaging other surrounding parts. Still no luck. When the wheels were hot this morning it was pretty easy, but I think the combination of the crushed metal and the condensing knuckle as it cooled got it to the point where I couldnt get a good enough grip on it to keep turning it out. Calling a local shop for a tap job estimate. Freaking fail.