OSU4Runner

So I'm pretty sure I busted both my CV axles. They have some mileage on them, and I installed a lift this weekend with a diff drop, but they finally gave out. I get a nasty clunk everyone so often when I turn the wheel. The thing I can't figure out is there is CV grease all over the place under there, but the boots aren't torn. Inner and outer boots are completely inact on both sides. So can someone explain to me what broke???? I'm probably gonna change them in the next week or so.....anyone have any good suggestions for a beefier replacement?

Godzilla

If you just installed a lift then the odds are the boots have moved from their usual spot of 9 years and some grease has slipped by. Keep an eye on it, and get new clamps if needed.
And from the countless CV threads out there, most seem to just replace them with a CV with a good warranty.

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

It doesn't sound like the axles are broken, perhaps you are hitting your steering stops when turning? It was a very common problem on the earlier trucks. It makes a hell of a crunch/squeak/popping noise, but its just the spindle rubbing on the lower control arm.

Take a look under there for anything worn or metal to metal contact.

OSU4Runner

Its a nasty clunk....not every turn though....its random. What Godzilla said makes sense too. Would it help if I threw some grease on the steering stops?

OSU4Runner

So I think I figured it out. After looking around under there and wiping all the axle grease off, I noticed my upper ball joints were rubbing on the springs when either side flexs to a certain point. I just installed my lift this past weekend, and haven't had it aligned yet. I'm going to have it aligned this week, would the alignment fix the rubbing?

dsasteel

My front does the same thing. I have taken the axles out and inspected them and nothing. I still have no clue what's making that clanking noise. And you're right, it's completely random.

You can do a fairly accurate alignment yourself to see if that solves your rubbing issue.

1. Get something to mark on your tires with. White crown works nice. Find the center point on your front tire by measuring the width and then half that. Then measure the height and half that. You might need a helper for this to hold the tape. You also might need a level if you have knobby tires.

2. Do this on the front of the tire and the back on both the passenger side and the driver's side, so that you have a center point on the front and rear of both front tires.

3. Measure from the center point on the front of the driver's side to the passenger's side. Record the measurement then do the same on the back side of tires.

4. Adjust your tie rods so that the front tire measurement is equal to the back.
Try to keep the thread count from the adjuster nut on both tie rods the same.


This will give you a pretty accurate alignment.

Let me know if my directions suck. I'll do it and take some pics to better show what I'm talking about. I just don't want you to spend $90 on an alignment if you don't have to.

Godzilla

You may want to give it a week or two and put the suspension through some articulation before you align it to allow things to settle in a bit.

dsasteel

Re torque/check all bolts after you do this. I'm really glad I did this after my Fabtech diff drop install. Man, I'm still beating myself up after paying $2600 for that thing too. Should have bought an axle.

crolison

get someone to turn the wheel and check out your rack and pinion. My bushings went out and its about the same as you described.

gpcollen1

I got a thud here and there and then found my Sway bar bracket had cracked.

Lumpy

Every once in a while I get the same, I'm not lifted though. I though it was the CV joints, I tend to notice it more when the truck is at an angle while turning. Kinda like a pop grind, doesn't sound good at all, not all the time though. Boots look good...I don't think I'm at full turn when this happens. I plan on changing them out before too long, def before next winter.

OSU4Runner

My CV's are throwing a ton of grease!! The boots aren't tore, but slipping by some how. I just wiped all the grease down again, wanna see if its slowing down or not. Should I just go ahead and change both sides out?

DeathCougar

iTrader: (23)

They are throwing grease because you did a spacer lift without using a drop bracket lift.

TOYOTA 1

hmm. Ive had a spacer lift with no diff drop for about 30,000 miles, no problems here.

the taco and 4runner have the same front end parts don't they?

VSU_4runnin

i got a near 2.5" spacer lift for like 6 months now.. no diff drop, and other than a little grease the first day, its clean as a whistle...(other than the mud )

OSU4Runner

I didn't do a spacer lift, I did a SS 1.2 lift, with the diff drop.

sschaefer3

No. This is the out clamp of the inner boot, remove the stock clamp and replace it with a stainless steel hose clamp from ACE Hardware.

The stock clamp only has one tension setting and the boots can dry out. A Tacoma has a different stock clamp that can be tightened to any degree, the 4Runner clamp only has one setting.

It is just that simple.

Also on your springs make sure you have them installed on the correct sides. Yellow-Yellow on the drivers side and Yellow-Blue on the passenger, if not you will get rubbing.