Zackb911

I just picked up a 94 V6 4X4 4Runner yesterday. Driving it home I knew the rotors were warped and it needs an alignment. Well today I went to do the front pads and rotors and:

1. The drivers side wheel will NOT come off!! It is frozen to the hub, I tried penetrating oil, hitting from the back, wiggling it, heat, everything?!?!?

2. How the F&*^* do you get the rotors off? I picked up the chiltons but it didnt help their description didnt seem like what I had in front of me....

3. I broke a wheel lug by overtightening the lug nut

So In all I got the pads done on the passenger side and thats it... Is there anything I can do here or just take it to a shop? I am very mechanical and have done engine swaps and rear end gear changes but this was rediculous!!

Oh and there is a HUGE oil seepage by the front passenger side on all the suspension components, is there a typical culprit for this?


Thanks,
Zack

ChickenLover

1. I had the same problem when I first tried to take my wheels off. Jack it up, take the lugnuts off and kick the ˟˟˟˟˟ out of the tire (top, bottom, and side to side) it that doesnt work, try lowering it back down (slowly at first) with the lugs loose. Hopefully the weight will break it loose (it did for me).

2. Search the forum. You'll notice two threaded holes on the main cap, find a couple of bolts that fit them and screw 'em in. They will push the cap off. You will need a 2 1/8" socket once you get the main cap off, to remove the hub nut.

3. That sucks. but they are cheap and fairly easy to replace.

Oil on the suspension components: Take a good look at the cv boots. One has probably torn.

miket223

The oil leak is your pwer steering pump.

The wheel stuck on the hub problem is common for the factory Toyota aluminum wheels. Brute force is required to remove the wheel. I use a 4 foot long sledge hammer to remove the really stuck wheels.

The rotors are not fall off rotors. They're bolted to the hub. You need to remove the wheel bearings to get the rotor off the hub. Repack the wheel bearings while you're in there.

Adam F

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/

Zackb911

Thanks for the help guys I will attempt tomorrow to get it all done...I do have a couple quick follow up questions:

1. So the rotor/hub assembly "should" come off after the 6 14mm nuts are taken off and I put some bolts in the two threaded holes and screw them in to press out the 2 bolts?

2. The leak definitly looks like oil and the truck was down 2 qts when I got it so why should I think power steering pump?

Zack

P.S. Thanks for your help you guys are great I cant wait to get this thing in tip top shape!

Adam F

I have no clue on what your talking about, 14mm bolts and threaded holes?

The links I posted shows exactly how to tear everything down, but here it is, in a nutshell...

Remove 2 17mm caliper bolts and tie up the caliper so it does not hang by the line.

Remove hub dial if you have manual hubs or remove flange if you have ADD, remove 12mm nuts and cone washers.

This will gain you access to the 54mm axle nut. Remove the 2 nuts and washers.

After the axle nuts are removed, the hub/rotor assembly will come off. Be carefull as the outter wheel bearing will fall off.

Remove innner wheel bearing seal and bearing.

Remove the 6, 14mm bolts holding the hub to the rotor.

Get yourself a pickle fork (like this one at Harbor Freight Stick it in between the rotor and the hub. Pound down on the pickle fork and the 2 parts should separate.

FireMan

My passenger side was the same; a coating down the block and on the suspension. My headgasket had blown.

miket223

Because the power steering pumps leaked after 14 days or 250 miles on all of those trucks. Just take a peek, I'm sure it is nothing two eyes and a flashlight could figure out.