................................

 

What are you doing for watching for lean? EGT? Wideband O2?

The reason it may run worse with the AIC is that it's running _richer_. Lean will get you more power, but it will also get you a head like mine.


In terms of answers to your Q's...

• 9.5psi at sea level sounds about right for the 2.1" pulley.
  
  
• Dyno - have fun, it's a blast! How's the session scheduled to run? Is it a flat 2 hours or? If you have a set amount of time, then PRACTICE what you want to do. Know how to pull the AIC quickly; know the AIC config software... Time goes by pretty fast.
  
  
• O2 bung. Ummm, are you talking about adding a wideband monitor? It needs to be in front of the first cat, and after the collector on the manifolds.

Side question... You did the deckplate, right? If not, then you REALLY want to make that happen before you get to the dyno.

And you're auto right? BE CAREFUL with that tranny! We talked about it in the other thread but you'll be surprised as to our fast things can go south.


245hp at the wheels will be about 306 at the crank. You may need headers to get there. Without them, and running 9psi of boost, you have a lot of exhaust sitting in the cylinders _after_ the exhaust stroke.

 

Mark,

Thanks for the suggestions. Today I took a look at my exhaust tip, and it is pretty black. Answers the AIC question along with your note.

Tuning will be done with a wideband. I will place the bung in the collector according to your recommendation.

My estimate might sound high, but the truck will be running a little more boost. Should show some difference in area under the curve. What good is more boost without headers to evacuate the exhaust? Haha, I think you're absolutely right about that! I will get headers eventually, (one of the last mods planned well after the VB upgrade and WI).

Realistically, 210 baseline to 225 with tuning? You are calculating with a 20% parasitic loss. If stock puts out 185 at the crank, does 148 to the wheel sound right? I thought it was higher than that.

Should be fun to see what the pressurized rice cooker comes up with

 

"Higher" as in more loss or more stock rwhp?

I've always gone with the 20% number for an auto (15% or less?? for a stick), and I know that the stock crank hp is 183ish, so... dunno.


You betcha'!


It sounds like you have things under pretty good control - like I said, have fun on the dyno! CONGRATS!

(I can't WAIT to get mine on the rollers with all the new toys!)

 

I'm sure it'll be awesome!

I guess the tranny and 4wd/2wd makes a difference. For what it's worth, mine is a 2wd. No offroading for me, which is why I removed the skid plate, spare tire, lowering mechanism, jack & tools, and shaved off 120 lbs. Made the most noticeable difference in braking ability, probably helped mpg some. I'm eyeing out that heavy looking fuel tank under protector as well as the side steps. There's definitely a limit to what cosmetic/convenience parts I will sacrifice for performance.

 

Can you get a video of the dyno session? We need some more good vids of 4Runners on YouTube.

Ditching weight is one of the best ways to improve performance. I don't run with my spare around town either. I swear I could feel the difference when I took that mother off (I even have an alloy spare, and it's still very heavy).

 

Yeah, you can see the difference when you remove the spare. The rear of my truck jumped about an inch.

I'll see what I can do about the video.

By the way, Nice truck. I like the way you mounted that axe in the cargo.

 

Thanks! You have the best color by far (IMO). Looking forward to the vid if you get it!

 

Interesting

 

 

Looks good man!

 

Sorry to thread jack, but:
Does the factory steel wheel weigh considerably more than an alloy of the same weight? I just got a full size spare (265/75/16 M/T), maybe I can offset some of the added weight with an alloy spare instead.

 

well if they both weigh the same amount why deos it matter? haha

difference between an alloy and a steel one is not enough to do anythign. You good eat a big lunch or take a big crap and it be almost the same.

 

It's not significant. Maybe 10lbs. But hey, every little bit helps. Plus with a matching wheel and tire one can rotate the spare into the tire-rotation schedule, extending the life of the tires a bit.

 

Never thought of that... Awesome suggestion.

I am taking a look into getting some light weight wheels. I read somewhere that rotational mass dropped by over 10 lbs per wheel when going with TE37's and that the performance difference was significant. Only problem is that they are pricey.

http://www.customtacos.com/forum/sho...highlight=te37