with water injection, you aren't just cooling the discharged air, you are also increasing the octane and preventing spark knock and pre-detonation. so it's not equivalent to a physical intercooler.

there are several ways to prevent water from being sucked in. my setup has two solenoids that would have to fail at the same time, including one that's NC. very low probablility that this would happen.

yes you would have to periodically fill your water resevoir. you also have to periodically fill your N2O resevior, as well as your gas tank.

yeah, nitrous works to increase HP. what's wrong with trying to find another, safer method to increase HP as well?

creed

 

Well, there are holes in my plan, but we'll see what happens. As far as the cooling abilities between the water injection and and intercooler, either one works fine, and water can actually work better with our application and actually cool better than the intercooler. I'm going to wait and see how Creed's idea works, and then go from there.

Chris

 

I like the idea of it, will it work, who knows? The question I would have is how will the SC hold up, assuming you can get everything else correct. I know heat is always the major concern when going to a smaller pulley to derive more boost. My question or rather concern would be that under extreme boost 11-15 would the bearings and rotor pack stay together. It would be a shame to have it work fine until your tried to blow someone out the whole only to send metal down in your engine. I wish you luck and please let me know if you need any information from a Toyota standpoint. I am always more than happy to help out on projects such as this.

Todd

 

OK, sound good.

I still thing the best place to inject is as close to the supercharger discharge port as possible. I would bore my holes right in the chute and mount two nozzels right there.

There should be no worries about drilling and tapping holes. Just get an oil kit and a tube of sealer from Magnuson and pull out the impellers and drill away. You can put tape over the rear bearings to keep metal out of there and flush the plenum out really well.

While you are at it ask Magnuson what grease they use for the rear bearings and regrease them while you are at it.

You may not be aware of it, but Aqua Mist has a new very simple to setup and use controller. You set the activation pressure and have a wire tapped into an injector wire and it runs the water is a perfect percentage of fuel. Very simple. I wonder who suggested that to them years ago?????????

If I were to do a water injection system that is the way I would go with it.

Gadget

www.GadgetOnline.com

 

i think that 11 psi is about the max pressure the blower can generate. running a 9.5 psi pulley would be more realistic - i've run it with fuel mods with a gain in the low end, and no gain in the high . . . probably due to increased discharge temps. although people apparently run the 11psi pulley too . . . .

creed

 

I'm just going to use the 9 or 9.5 psi pulley, unless this water injection system can lower the temps enough to benefit from a 11 psi pulley. But, here again, if the water injection system does cool it down enough, wouldn't the guys running 305cc injectors be needing more fuel? Maybe not, but I thought I would ask.

Also, Gadget, which unit is it that you are talking about from Aquamist that's so simple to hook up?

Chris

 

actually, you can run leaner with water injection because of the cooler burn (higher octane). also, you can supplement the fuel with a 50/50 ethanol mix.

creed

 

I heard the 50/50 methanol mixture has been proven to combat detonation the most. Well, I sure hope all this works out for you Creed, because I want to do it too. Are you planning to dyno it once you get it all done?

Chris

 

i don't know - maybe. i don't really care how much power an actual dyno says i'm putting out, except to quell any other's doubts. it's too expensive just to know how much power your engine makes. the real reason would be for tuning, but i have that road-dyno thing.

creed

 

Have you done a road dyno test lately without the water injection? The road dyno would be great for measuring it! Good luck!

Chris

 

well, im into what gadget is saying...i drilled into my S/C boost port casue i broke the boost port....i spun the impellers and spray a crap load of air into the s/c and blew eveyrhting out...wokrs fine now...remove the impellers for the drilling thing wouold have been better idea.....nevre thought of it at time...anyway i dont see a problem with what he says except would the 2 injectors be able to provide perfect even or at least close enough amount of water to all 6 cyls? i heard that it would be uneven...

That is why i was following chris's idea as well but the hieght is the problem...my S/C is very close to the hood as it is.

anyway im gonna keep reading up on this thred, but for now back to tunning =]

 

I'm also afraid of the uneven distribution of water to each cylinder too. Gadget, any comments?

Chris

 

You could do a direct port system.

 

If anyone needs a TB Spacer to complete this mod (Chris), I will have one for sale shortly. Let me know.

 

Not the famous Helix Power Tower, how can you bare to part with such a mod?

 

Problem is, I just cant bring myself to selling it to someone on the boards... (unlike other people I have seen in the For Sale section ) - I have to bite my tongue (well fingers) when I see stuff like that going on...

So, I figure someone might want it for another mod. I know, I know, I am sacrificing the advertised 15HP...but what can I say?

 

The main problem everyone is saying about the direct port water injection is that there isn't enough space between the S/C and the hood.

As far as the Power Tower, the inside is not smooth, so it wouldn't work well for this application, I think. I've got all the parts already from them, outside the actuall spacer, which I'll be making. This gives me the bolts and gaskets to use.

Chris

 

Just dremmel the inside out and polish smooth for free airflow. Then you get 4,500 additional horses!

Todd