95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Is this a bad estimate? -Stuck in High 4

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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 11:34 AM
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ehhopps's Avatar
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Is this a bad estimate? -Stuck in High 4

So I did a search on the forums and found some very informative threads on others who have had the exact same situation as me: 99 4runner will not come out of 4H to 2H or, at least, when it is shifted back into 2H, it remains in 4H and the display for 4x4 engaging just continues blinking and never goes off or fully illuminates.

I took it to a shop and received a phone call a few hours later that, in very loose quotations, "the transfer case actuator needs replacing and possibly the front diff actuator" and that my front drive shaft is bent and after the transfer case is fixed, they will see if it should also be replaced.

What really gets me is, considering what I have read in other threads as far as fixing the problem with a $50 sensor or replacing an actuator for prices in the hundreds, the estimate I received: The shop wants $1800 (argued down from $2200) to replace the transfer case actuator. How much should this replacement be costing and how labor intensive is it? I was estimated for 9 hours of labor which also seems way over kill because, as I understand it, the transfer case is fairly accessible for removal?

Thanks for any help.
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 11:56 AM
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I have this same problem in my 2000 Ltd. Haven't got around to fixing it but it should just be the $50 dollar sensor which if you have a normal tool set and some basic know how you can probably swap in the new ones in 30min. If you don't want to try it yourself just take it in and tell them all you want is for new sensors to be put in. If that doesn't fix it you'll know you need to have the actuators replaced.

As far as the price quote goes that sounds really steep. Although they are probably just going by what the book says which is always a complete over estimate.
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 03:13 PM
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From: Ellicott City, MD
I have owned my truck since new and have had this very issue happen on at least 6 or 7 occasions over the years. I've found that the problem is some sort of binding that occurs in the front drivetrain. My solution? First lift the rear of the truck and place on axle stands. If no 'clunk' is heard, lift the front of the truck. Cycle the ignition on & off during this and the problem should go away.

This has worked for me every time.


Andreas
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 04:04 PM
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Thats wayyyy too much (a 'new' transfer case can be had for less than 1k and if your a good shopper around 400.) Replace the sensor yourself, it isn't too hard.

EDIT: The case IS a massive pain to remove, it is probably a 2-3 hour job for me, because I've done it before, possibly less if I had everything laid out and was in a hurry.

Last edited by Yukon; Dec 5, 2010 at 04:06 PM.
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 08:25 PM
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From: TN
1800......does that come with a reach around?

hell you could find a j shift tcase and throw it in for a couple hundred......

does your truck vibrate when driving in 4hi?......if not the shaft is straight
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 09:37 AM
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From: South Texas
Check the sensors with an ohm meter.

Hotwire the TC actuator for operation.

Bypass the soleniods for front diff actuator operation or if something is hanging up inside it. This should also engage and disengage the TC if working.

^^^^^
Bypassing the soleniods helped me to figure out how to solve my problem

Last edited by etc.; Dec 7, 2010 at 09:46 AM.
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Old Dec 7, 2010 | 10:07 AM
  #7  
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From: enumclaw,wa

Originally Posted by crolison
1800......does that come with a reach around?
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