Chainlink

ok first off I have searched and searched. and found some related info but hasnt helped me get the fix. I have diff oil leaking onto my rear driver side drums. I have replaced the seal 4 times, still leaks. I believe the failure started due to vent was rusted badly so no air in or out( replaced it also)....

either way I havent found a good schematic to show all that could be allowing the continued leak. I took the axle to a mechanic and he felt the bearings were fine( does the bearing help keep oil off the drums?) My haynes manual is less than good in my opinion on this. So is there a seal near the pumpkin that I am missing?

this is an on going problem and getting very old, tired of pulling tire and drum and cleaning at least once a week as they drag and cause the brakes to lock up in harder braking.

please please help ty

Chainlink

thanks, but I will elaborate a tad more to help. The seal I have replaced was on end of axle tube, I removed tire backing plate disco'd the ebrake removed axle. The seal that was replaced was 3 or 4 inches in side axle tube.

manofsteele2003

Isn't there an o-ring where the axle flange bolts to the axle?

Chainlink

yes there is, but for the amount of oil getting to the brakes it seems unlikely this is the source of my woes

AW1090

I've done mine on my 91 a couple of times and I can tell you if you crush or distort that seal at the end of the tube at all it'll leak.....I went to put the first one in and bent it to hell....put another one in just fine, but when I slid the axle back into place I rested it on the seal and that screwed that seal up. I didn't notice this until I got it all back together and drove it for a week. I did it a third time without touching the seal or distorting it at all. It's been fine ever since.

KZN185W

iTrader: (1)

If you didn't damage the seal while installing it or when replacing the axle, then it could be the bearings. so, check for play in the bearings. That could cause the seal to be damaged and let the oil pass through.

You're referring to the inner oil seal since the outer seal is attached to the axlke shaft.

HTH.

Chainlink

ok, maybe it is the bearing, there is a little play ....very little the mechanic said but I thought it seemed to be a bit much for a yota

BruceTS

If there is any play in the bearing, the seal won't hold..... another possibility is a bent axle......

KZN185W

iTrader: (1)

When you say that's there's "little" play, is that while the axle is still attached to the housing? If it is, try removing the axle and see how big the "real" play is.

snap-on

how many miles on the truck?

while rare it does happen. a bad seal will wear a small barly noticeable grove on the axle were the seal rides. so even a new seal wont seal correctly.

just another thought

bamachem

the bearins have some play, it's typical. i'm thinking a bent axle. that will cause the axle to "flop" around inside the seal and allow lube to seep past.

Bennito

As I recall, the seal you've been replacing is the inner seal. There is also an outer seal. There are old threads on here with detailed pictures and directions for replacing that seal (and bearing). However, its not trivial as its a press-fit seal. Believe those doing it at home have hydraulic presses and built the correct jigs.

nrgetic99

I had this EXACT problem on my 96 4runner.

I first discovered it after my 3rd set of rotors under warranty. I discovered the leak which stopped the rear brakes working hence frying the rotors which were doing all the braking.

I towed a boat nd with wet brakes, I could not hold my truck and boat on the ramp :pat:

Long story short, badly machined axles housing. No repair. I had to push very hard but I got a new axle, hub to hub and never had another problem.

I was on my 4th set of rear seals before they finally agreed to replace the axle as I had started proceedings to have the vehicle replaced as a lemon.

David

Chainlink

whole axle icluding tube?

well it has just hit 60k, and no real wheeling to speak of but has been worked. I guess i will have to get a tech to check the axle itself, dang I hate the stealership. I will however see if my brothers shop can handle this as they are a huge 4x4 shop although they mostly cater to Land Rovers, but I will see if they can check the axle itself. Thanks guys

nrgetic99

Hub to hub, complete with everything except the wheels.

David

Chainlink

Just wanted to update:::

it seems it was the bearing. There was alot more play in it then last I checked so the seal was being comprimised everytime I replaced it. So unless this doesnt really fix it although from what I saw( how tight the new bearing was in comparison) I assume it is fixed.


I will not use the first mechanics opinion again :pat: . Next time I will trust my gut. I thought it could be the bearing but the tech convinced me otherwise, only to turn out he was way off. I havent ever really had to deal with the bearings on a low milage yota so I listened to who I thought knew what he was talking about...ooops. But like I said seeing the difference after it was pressed was night and day.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

At 60k you should still be covered under the OEM drivetrain warranty...I had an 00 they replaced the rear seals on...on their dime at 60,784 miles. Most aren't hard nosed about it being right at 60K.

Glad you found the problem.

Chainlink

60,660 right now and its a 98...the local stealership has a horrid rep in this department and for less than 200 everything inclusive I have spent its worth not dealing with them.