I'm thinking about replacing my OEM fluid with the ATE. I was wondering if anyone is using it or has used it? Does it have any affect on our ABS system? I will be replacing my rotors with Brembo Blanks and getting the Hawk HPS pads.

 

ATE, Motul 600, Ford Heavy Duty, and Valvoline SynPower are all certainly good enough for a Toyota. I would look at availability and price. Valvoline is probably cheapest, and readily available at Autozone, and is my recommedation unless you need the extra performance of ATE.

That being said, I use ATE in both the brake and clutch systems, for every car I own. Excellent dry and wet boiling points, but doesn't absorb very much water anyways. Never boiled it, not even on track vehicles. IMO, the best brake fluid out there except for Castrol SRF, but SRF isn't DOT4 compatible. The bigger problem with ATE is availability, as no one here in town carries it, AFIK. To make it cost effective, I order it by the case and sell a few liters to fellow racers.

 

Spot on advice whether tracking a car or towing a boat down a mountain pass.

 

we've always used super blue with our race cars and have had stellar results, so go for it if you're willing to spend the extra few bucks, it works awesome.

 

Thanks for your replies, I found it online for aobut 9.50 a liter. How many liters do I need 1 or 2?

Thanks

 

To do a complete brake flush will take about 0.75 liter.

 

Ok great, also one question how do I make sure that all the old fluid is out? I know to open the bleeder screws on the calipers, but how else can I make sure it's all gone.

 

The title of this thread really caught my eye.

"ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid"

I was going to reply with "What the hell are you doing posting here? Call poison control and make your way to a hospital! That stuff is bad news!"

 

Step 1: Suck out old fluid from the master cylinder via turkey baster or something else appropriate.
Step 2: Fill master with new fluid.
Step 3: Do a normal bleed of the system, one wheel at a time, refilling the master with new fluid as you go. When the fluid coming out at the wheel is a very pretty shade of blue, you're done with that wheel. Go on to the next.

Look in the service manual for the proper bleeding sequence. Normally its RR, LR, RF, LF, but it may be different for your vehicle.

 

Alright perfect, I didn't know if I had to do something special since I was changing fluid types.

 

Do any of you bleed the brake proportioning valve separately? I think the manual calls for it, although I've never done it to any of my rides. If so, what's the sequence when including the BPV?

If you're flushing brakes the old fashioned way (pump and dump), avoid sinking the pedal to the floor. Stop 3"-4" before full travel to keep the master cylinder seal intact, or it might cross a normal travel ridge that can develop on older MC's.

 

yeah i didnt understand that for a minute, but NOW LOL!!.. but i have some ate, it was leftover from a customer and they never picked it back up.... i use it jsut becasue i have it... works good... kinda shocks people when they look @ my clutch master and are like, um your clutch fluids messed up, im like no its blue.... then i jsut get a look.....

 

Well I just ordered 2 liters so that I have some left over it cost 28.80 total with shipping