95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

Anyone have JL 12W7's?

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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 02:01 PM
  #21  
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Del
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From: Redondo Beach, CA
This topic needs to be moved to the audio section of the forum.
I know I should have started it there, but I don't think I would have gotten such good responses.

Wes - Wow that's some technical stuff there! Thanks so much for the time you took to write that up. After a lot of thought, I'm probably just going to get a pair of these

www.carstereoworld.com/subzone/subzonejl.html


Again everyone who replied thank you lots for all the info. I'll be sure to take it with me when I do decide to make my own box(es). Thanks again!
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 03:07 PM
  #22  
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From: Last stop on the westcoast line
Originally Posted by Del
I know I should have started it there, but I don't think I would have gotten such good responses.

Wes - Wow that's some technical stuff there! Thanks so much for the time you took to write that up. After a lot of thought, I'm probably just going to get a pair of these

www.carstereoworld.com/subzone/subzonejl.html


Again everyone who replied thank you lots for all the info. I'll be sure to take it with me when I do decide to make my own box(es). Thanks again!
You have gotten a plethora of responses and info, so this may be worthless to ya. I am running 2 13.5W7-1.5's in a slot ported box with an mtx 1501 running to each. To make a long story short, I have used 1" HDF everytime I have built a box for these suckers. Currently I am at about 3.2 cubic per slot ported chamber. I am going to rebuild for the 5th and last time here soon, down to 2-2.5 slot ported. I as well would reccomend HDF, I even have the 1" doubled up in spots...I have seen these things shatter weaker MDF boxes and my rear window for that matter. Also, remember you are gonna need a grip of amperage to make everything happen. Good Luck.

I will vouch for the damn things too...I have put em thru hell and back over the last year and still nill a prob.

Billy
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 03:57 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Del
I know I should have started it there, but I don't think I would have gotten such good responses.

Wes - Wow that's some technical stuff there! Thanks so much for the time you took to write that up. After a lot of thought, I'm probably just going to get a pair of these

www.carstereoworld.com/subzone/subzonejl.html


Again everyone who replied thank you lots for all the info. I'll be sure to take it with me when I do decide to make my own box(es). Thanks again!
You are very welcome. Those boxes that you show look nice. The only problem I see is that you need two of them, which is pricey. Also, you are going to have to set them up and probably face them together. because of their sizes I am sure it hits just as hard, but they are very tall then (Over 17.5"s). I dont know if you have a hatch cover, but they probably wont fit under it. If it does, great. Maybe you can but some Neon in there!

Apparently 1" MDF is more common in other parts of the US. I haven't really seen it in columbus, OH yet. I would get it if I did, especially for these beasts. I still wouldn't rule out plywood. I build some Kilomax 18s for a friend out of plywood. I doubled up to 1.5"s on the baffle. Those things absolutely slam, and are still over 90 lbs, even with plywood. They survived a drop off of the truck though. I don't know if MDF would have. It's dense, but it can crack. Different purpose completely though and MDF is the most popular, without a doubt.

As for the "common enclosure" issue, those are very valid points. If a woofer blows completely, and stops working, it will be like putting a single driver in a box twice as big as what it is supposed to be in. In ported, this would be very bad. In sealed, it depends. I guess SPL must be pretty hard on woofers. Still, I would think that you would hear the woofer distort before you blew it up. Or your output would be down enough to make you question if something is up.
I would like to point that if you are going to do two separate boxes (in a bridged speaker configuration), make sure you get it as close to the same size enclosure as possible. You can only hope that the speakers come from the factory with near clone T/S parameters. My way guarantees the airspace is the same, but without a speaker tester, you will never really know the true specs of the woofer, so this is probably a moot point. It has worked well for me though,and it sounds like sealed works well for others. You also can run in stereo, but who does that anymore.

If you do decide to give it a shot, let me know. I would be happy to walk you though every aspect of the build if you want to. That box would be a beast!

Wes

Last edited by Wes Whitmore; Aug 19, 2004 at 03:58 PM.
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 05:25 PM
  #24  
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Oh, BUILD THE BOX TO LAST! For securing the woofers, use T-Nuts and bolts. Then you don't have to worry about destroying the box.



These will prevent your wood from splitting due to the pressure the screws put on the wood.
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 05:39 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by OneTrickToy
Oh, BUILD THE BOX TO LAST! For securing the woofers, use T-Nuts and bolts. Then you don't have to worry about destroying the box.



These will prevent your wood from splitting due to the pressure the screws put on the wood.
Yup, thats a great way to hold in those 45 lbs woofers. You can get them at Sears hardware, or there is a thing called a "hurricane nut" for sale at partsexpress.com

http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage....er=nuts+50+pcs

Wes
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Old Aug 19, 2004 | 06:17 PM
  #26  
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Thanks again guys! I got a reply from Steve (BumpinYota) so I think I'm gonna have him build me a pair. He's put up some pretty nice db numbers so I trust his designs, and he's not charging near what that web site wanted (plus he says he'll go lower if we get a group buy *cough cough*).
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