Need to swap out my front diff this weekend and would like to make it a smooth deal with none of the usual hurdles I seem to find. I did plenty of searching and didn't find much, thought maybe someone had something bookmarked from another forum? Thanks in advance!

 

CV Axle Replacement on 3rd Generation 4Runners and Tacomas

 

That's a great writeup you linked there, the only thing I would add is that the dust covers can be very tough to pry off and a small chisel is recommended.

 

That's a sweet write up..i was up half the night searching. But my questions is how do you replace just the boot and clamp??...or do you have to remove the whole thing?? Thanks

 

dizzydub:
I just replaced my inner boot and clamp last week and ended up NOT removing the whole thing just because i couldn't figured/didn't want to pull the axle out of the spindle/balljoint setup. I just unbolted it from the front diff. and let the axle rest on the lower a-arm while I removed the old boot, tripod joint and clamp. Was a little tricky doing all of this under my truck, but it worked.

98Limited:
I thought I found some CV threads, but they were only for 86-95 IFS. Looks like yours is 3rd gen.

 

if youre doing a diff swap, or replacing inner boots only, you dont have to remove the whole thing. just take out 4 bolts under the knuckle, pry out the inner cv end at the dif and pop it off the lower control arm.

take some pics of your diff swap along the way...im gonna be doing the same thing too this weekend.

 

This is the part of my CV that is leaking. the stealership wanted $70 for each tie rod/end link!!!!!
I just put a 2in hose clamp just for now!

 

I don't really see how that's possible... To "pop it off the control arm" you'd still have to undo the 35 mm nut and such...

I'll be sure to take pics and will post a semi-write up... my pain=yotatech's gain is the motto to live by!

 

When you pull the 4 bolts, you are freeing the spindle from the lower control arm (see step #17 in the link I posted). When you pop the axle from the diff, the axle will stay attached to the spindle and the entire assembly will pivot on the upper balljoint/upper control arm.

 

nope..no need to undo the hub side. when the 4 bolts around the lower ball joint are out & separated from the lower control arm, it pivots around the upper ball joint (assuming you've already pryed it out of the diff end) still attached to the knuckle.

 

If you you're only replacing the boot on one side, then yes, you don't have to remove the whole thing but it does make it easier and it's really not hard at all to just remove it completely. There's a snap ring on the outside end that you need a snap ring plier to allow the ring to jump a race on the end of the shaft. A pair of needlenose works too, but it's just harder.

Hose clamps work fine as a permanent solution. I know plenty of people who run a standard hose clamp for thousands of miles and have no problems.