duanedeidre

okay guys no one seems to post anything on the first thread so heres another i got the yota running good and starting alot better
okay here's my ? where can i find a site on the setting the timing and adjusting the vavles on this 3.slow?

who ever posted the site for the TPS you f@#king rock dude thanks the post
thank guys for help on the problem i had you all rock
duane

Fink

I would go get a Chiltons or Haynes repair manual, I don't know for sure but I would imagine that its in there...if not then you could just call your dealer.

Sorry, that is all the help I can offer...but maybe this will motivate other to post to help you out and make me look like a dumba$$

Fink

Churnd

...or get a Factory Service Manual. It's all in there, and they're a very worthwhile investment. I've used my Haynes manual countless times.

Fink

Yeah, the Toyota Service Manuals are awesome! I've got the one for my drivetrain and man is it nice to have! They are a little on the expensive side but they are definately worthwhile for a DIY guy!

Fink

Firefyter-Emt

Well the timing is easy.. You need to jump 2 connectors (Te1 & E1) These are located behind the battrey under that little box attached to the side of the fulse / relay box. Set your idle to 750 rpm and set the timing to 5 degrees BTDC (with tranny in neutral) Adjust as needed (torque spec. on dist. bolt is 14ftlbs if you really want to be anal!) Remove the wire jumper and recheck the timing, you should be between 10-14 degrees when you give it some gas to advance the timing..

As for the valves.. Don't do it. This is a very hard motor to adjust and major teardown. The 3VZ-E uses a "bucket & shim" design with an overhead cam. There is no real adjustment, you must measure the very tight tollerance with a feeler gauge, remove the shim, after calculating the proper thickness shim and taking a cross refrence in the chart to find the correct shim, using a special tool to hold the bucket off the cam lobe. If they are too tight you can burn a valve very quickly.. There is also no "play" these are a solid no lifter/rocker design there is very little to wear. You only have that hardned shim, the valve, and the cam..

Please look at my motor re-build page to get a good inside look at the head design.

Motor page ~~ Lee's 4Runner

AgRunner06

I thought the stock timing was supposed to be 10 degrees advanced with the jumper and the motor at 800 rpms.

duanedeidre

hey thanks guys you guys have helped me again
where would look for big book ? dealer?

and do i use a standard timing light?

okay i got another one for ya:
i want to install some guages oil,volt,and may be tranny temp
do i need to have the factory oil sender hooked up for the ECU if so i'll put a T connecter there and do i need to know any thing as for the volt or amp goes ?

you guys rock
duane

Firefyter-Emt

Search e-bay for the books or at Jay Marks Toyota They have a Vol.1 for a 92 for $22.60 right now.. You really will want Vol. 1 & 2 Vol 2 is about $40 on that site.. You will see them on e-bay if you watch for them.. I bought 2 like new books for $44 & $37 about a year ago.

As for the timing, that is right out of my 92 FSM btw.

You can use just a standard timing light, just remember #1 is the front passanger side plug, not the drivers side

AgRunner06

Hmm...I always thought the timing should be set at 10 degrees advanced with it jumpered. I've got mine at 12 degrees now with it jumpered and get a little pinging with 92 octane. I guess I could back it off a little but I don't want to lose any power.

I'm going to adjust my timing when I go home again. This could be something new that I haven't thought of. Maybe this will alleviate my hesitation that I have only after the vehicle has been sitting for a couple hours but I'm not going to hold my breath. We'll see.

Thanks

MTL_4runner

Set the timing to 10 with it jumpered (I think 5 is too much).
Also open up the bottom of the airbox for more power.

duanedeidre

hey now the injecters on the driversside are leaking what do i need to do to fix that
by the wat i have a new thread on the this allready
duane
i think i should just get rid of the thing or replace the engine with something with more power and easier to work on like a ford 302 or chevy 350 what do you think about my newest problem (injecters)
can you all help me?
duane

duanedeidre

HELLO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! !!!!!!!!!!!!!


is there anybody out there????????????????????????????????????????????? ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ????????????????????

duane

duanedeidre

hey guys it was the o rings and egr
thanks for the help

and by the way i removed all the vac hoses and feed them back into where the intake pluged it you would like, and MY GOD MY TRUCK RUNS GREAT NOW it will haul a$$ and really shifts alot better now i guees it couldn't breathe very well with all the ex. gases going back into the intake.

i'mgoing to remove the whole egr thing and weld up some plates to cover the old holes besides i will use this 4runner for muddin' and 4 whelling anyway i only wished i knew just what the engine need to operate(run) and remove everything else.
duane