I finally broke a CV.

I don't have any pics of the obstacle, but it was worthy. I was trying to climb a 4' ish ledge with a foot deep puddle at the bottom. I was turned hard driver to get the driver tire to climb bause my approach angle wasn't good enough. The passenger was fully drooped into the puddle with little to no traction, so I was biasing the brakes to get the TrueTrac to grab...all I heard was snap, snap, snap, BANG. I really expected more drama, a little disappointing. 35 mins later I had the CV replaced and was going again.



So, that's what they look like inside.

 

The brake biasing is the ticket to get those Tru-Trac's to hook up but as I found out our front ends don't like it too much. I grenaded my ring gear and carrier last year in the same situation.

 

I like the True Trac. In most situations it works great. However, on more extreme obstacles it lets me down where an ARB should let me walk right up. I wish there was an LSD/Locker like the Detroit Electrac for the Dana 44.

The biasing issue will be solved shortly...RD90

 

No wonder it broke... It looks like you ran out of grease.

 

LOL, believe me, when I tore it apart there was plenty of grease...

 

AHHHH, I was just commenting on your thorough cleaning job. Well done!

 

bah screw electronics! climb things the ol' fashioned way



i cut a cv boot at pap but luckily it was AFTER i was done wheelin'.

 

Abq Jim, what method do you use to swap CV's so quick (35min)? Do you remove the tire and unbolt the 4 bolts under the LCA and swing everything out of the way or do you have a better way? I've re-booted mine so the whole process took about 4hrs in the garage. I can't remember really how much was involved just in R&R.

 

Yep, take off the wheel, remove the hub (manual Hubs takes longer), remove the 4 bottom bolts, take out the shaft, slide in a new one, reverse.

I had a guy helping me, handing me tools. It was pretty smooth. I bet I can get it down to under 30min...

 

Do you plan on replacing the whole diff assembly when you go with the ARm or just the diff? Are you going to sell your truetrac?

Thanks

 

Is the 2000 4runners different than a 2002 4runner? I don't remember that much work to change a CV....

 

they're the exact same. it's not much work at all. you can actually do it w/o removing the tire if you want, but it's more cumbersome with all that weight on the knuckle as you swing it out of the way to swap the shaft.

 

Maybe it's just me, but I think it's still easier to pop the dust cover off, remove the cotter pin and crown nut and work the CV out from there

 

I will be selling the TT, not the whole diff assembly. It would work in a 2nd gen as well. Interested?

Tanto, I have none of those things...I have manual hubs. If I still had ADD it would be the same.

 

So why don't you tell the people why it broke. Because you really didn't "Break" it like a Banjo Playing Pirate Board Guy would from major flogging. You ripped the cage out.

Tell the people why the cage ripped out.

 

lemme guess.... OME N91s up front with a top out spacer or two, then you hit a ledge where the front tires went up and over and the backs were still below pushing... ??? at that point, the front went to full droop since the weight shifted to the rear and the belly was bottomed out. you gave it some gas to pull you up and over, but instead as you got traction, you shattered the cage - just like i did on slickrock back in May...



yeah, the OME's really are too long.

 

Yeah Jim! Why DID you rip the cage out? Now I feel offended like you lied to me about breaking your CV joint. hahahaha

 

Stock Tundra shocks with a 1" top out spacer. Yeah, N91S or longer. I don't have any numbers on the stock Tundra shocks. Front shock length is extremely critial with these front ends. With the correct length, you can really beat the snot out of it and it will not break/bind. Shocks that are too long and it's over quick.

Basically the joint bound up and the cage tore out.

Same thing if you cut the steering stops off of a 79-85 SA and just kept turning.

 

The binding was pretty noticeable when Steve and I were setting my limit straps. Without the limit straps and the front end at full droop, we were unable to twist the axles by hand. When we had the straps set to limit the droop to ~17 degrees (stock range), we were able to easily twist the axles with our hands.

 

One more reason for me to buck up and buy the dang limit straps. I'll be perusing your site Steve.