I just rebuilt some Warn Premium hubs and was curious as to how much grease you guys used?? I've read that you don't want to use too much, but I'm not sure if I'm using enough

Thanks for your help!

 

I just cleaned mine up and sprayed them with Lithium grease during the installation / they do not require much lubrication. Lithium is water repellant and I figured that it would work great. I'm also CHEAP !

 

i found some water proof hub grease for boats and stuff at schucks. its a pretty blue color!!! and i just applied quite a bit. i would just say use your judgement.

 

Didnt browse the rest of the thread, but you have to realize why some of us like me are putting a manual hub onto our 3rd gens in the first place...

granted im not sure if you have solid axle or not, but Im keeping my rigs hubs unlocked so the CV's dont turn all the time, which is ok, but somewhat not good for someone like me with a lifted rig, and a daily driver...

 

yes, this mod is primarily only for people who are going to be lifting or already have a lift on their trucks. other wise there isn't really any point, except for something to do. by adding manual locking hubs like ducky stated, your front axels, or cv's aren't turning if you have them unlocked. people do this when they have a lift to avoid the excessive wear on the cv boots. most times when you lift your front suspension, the axels or cv's will have to angle down more, putting more wear on the cv boots. driving around with your hubs unlocked, greatly decreases the constant wear on the boots. so unless your lifting, then there isn't really a point. i don't know if i just restated what ducky said, but whatever. hope that makes sense.

 

Yeah, thanks for the info. I was under the impression that anyone/everyone should do it to save wear and tear on the cv boots. But from what you are saying it doesn't do all that much unless you have a lift? I probably won't be getting a lift anytime soon so I guess I won't worry bout it for now.

 

I agree with Kevy - I ordered and then installed the manual hubs on my 1990 model 4 runner thinking that I had the ADD style hubs - I did not !
What I found was a solid piece of hub that kept the CV shaft locked all the time. I had heard stories of the ADD hubs failing when backing up - I did not want that to happen. My wheel covers said Automatic Disconnect Hubs - but that is not what I found. I do have lighter steering with the manual hubs and they look real good on there - but I agree with Kevy - there is not much sense in doing it unless you are bored or are planning on lifting the runner. What years were the ADD hubs used ? :pat:

 

im pretty sure what you are describing are the add hubs. all the add hubs are, are a big peice of metal the keeps the cv's turing all the time. when you activage the 4wheel drive, something like the transfer case ingauges/locks the front drive shaft. with the manual locking hubs, the transfer case still ingaues the front drive shaft, but if your hubs aren't locked then it doesn't do anything. but if you have your hubs locked, then it will act just like the add system. so if your out on the trails you can just keep them locked all day and then just use the 4x4 shift knob to engauge them, just like add.

 

I'll be going up 1.5-2", would it be worth my while?
I'm also a newb, so I am looking for any old reason to get my hands dirty as a learning experience. Keep in mind, before 5 months ago, I didn't know JACK about 4x4's.

 

I dont have currently have a lift, but my point was to get a little more go out of the 3.slow and if it helps at all with gas mpg, that would be great with prices so high. I have heard some people swear having unlocked front hubs makes a noticable difference in acceleration. Also if I do get around to doing a lift or installing a cheap locker, it will be one less thing I have to do later. I havnt decided to defeat the actual ADD unit or not. I have heard of some people having probs with the vacuum lines that go to it, so i would be avoiding that, but I kinda like that I can leave the hubs locked for awhile If I wanted. I still havt done the install. It was over 100 degress today here in Sunny SoCal and I just might wait for a cooler day. Im also going to do my brakes at the same time. I think my rotors are a warped cause I get some shuttering when braking.

 

Just so you know... I consider the gas thing (SO FAR) from my experience... no noticeable difference in milage...

 

Your CV boots can still tear without having a lift. So by putting the manual hubs on, you are saving money in the long run if you don't do that kind of work yourself. I'm not planning on putting on a lift but I did them anyways. It made the steering easier but I can't say I noticed much difference in acceleration and mileage.

Just my $.02

 

i also nocticed the difference in steering, but no noticable increase in acceleration or mpg's

 

Right but when you have ADD hubs and on the trail... and break a CV your stuck... with hubs, you tie it all up... and you disconnect and limp out...

havent we already discussed this? lol.

 

That sounds like a good enough reason to switch alone.

 

i got my hubs and spindle nut kit from the junk yard for $50 total. I had an 87 with autos now manual and if you need the spindle nut kit just go get it off a junk yard truck rather than paying $65 online just for the kit.

 

I have the Aisin manual hubs on my 86 runner. I am lost...what was the reason Toyota put them on in the first place?? do the hubs have to be locked to get into 4WD??
Also, mine are becoming very hard to turn(i put it in reverse like they say, and it is still difficult)..what is the problem here??

 

OMG... here we go again.. lol... Everyone.... sing... this is the song that never ends.. it keep... ahem.. ok, ill be nice...

OK...jscarrozzo

>I have the Aisin manual hubs on my 86 runner. I am lost...what was the >reason Toyota put them on in the first place?? do the hubs have to be >locked to get into 4WD??

Yes... Im not sure the original reason was, and toyota DID go with ADD hubs.. so they are not needed... but alot of us.. or maybe just me... are putting the locking hubs like the one you got, or the warn ones on to get rid of the add. the reason is, with the ADD, even though your in 2wd, the cv's are turning... which if you have a lift... wears those parts and the boots, which when you have a lift are at the horrible (or not as good as stock) angle. and with ADD if you break a CV and dont have a spare your stuck, where as with manual hubs you disconnect and limp out... as I understand...


>Also, mine are becoming very hard to turn(i put it in reverse like they say, >and it is still difficult)..what is the problem here??

Some are difficult... some ppl just say live with it, even if one is harder to turn than the other, OR you might have to get them rebuilt... I would google how to do it... I know of the following:

http://www.off-road.com/toyota/tech/aisin/

Anyone can correct me... Im not the authoritive figgure on this, just an addicted user....

 

very good ducky. yeah if i were you, i would rebuild them, just to be safe and im sure it wouldn't hurt to get some new grease in them.

 

I had heard that the ADD hubs would unlock if you were in 4 wd and had to back up more than 2 feet. This is the actual reason that I changed mine.
After taking the ADD hub off to install the manual hubs - I realize that the hub can not unlock - it's splined to the CV shaft. My manual shows a ADD hub that looks like a ratchet set-up and that was what I thought that I would have to remove to install the manual hubs - The "ratchet" hub must have been used before 1990. I recently had to change a CV axle shaft due to a torn boot - cost me $90.00 plus 3 hours labor for one side - If I can prevent the wear and tear to both front CV shafts and boots - then the manual hubs have paid for themselves !!!!!!!! I like the fact that the manual hub will disconnect if you break a shaft while 4 wheeling and you simply tie the broken shaft up out of the way/ unlock the hub and limp out of the woods. THAT'S ALL THAT I KNOW ABOUT THAT!