chuckd83

This typically happens when the car has been sitting for a long period of time (morning or after work). I turn the key and nothing happens like the battery is dead. Try again a few times and it starts right up. Sometimes, while the key is turned (and acting dead), it starts to turn over after a second or so.

I made a video:

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Could be a few things

Poor connections at the battery terminals

The battery cables them selves might be dieing of old age.

could have a poor ground

the charging system might not be doing the job it should.

starter solenoid contacts could be getting pitted

once the engine is warm it does not draw as much to start.

chuckd83

It was poor connections. Took them apart and cleaned with baking soda. Starts right up now. Thanks.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

Glad it was easy!!

chuckd83

Well, it's back. Took it to O'Reilly's and they said the alternator has low output. Replace the alternator or clean more connections (ground, @alternator, etc)?

TheDurk

1. In any case, if factory Denso, do not replace, have it rebuilt if possible. The Denso's are basically bullet-proof, while remans and aftermarket alts can have disappointingly short lives.

2. Hard to say for sure, since I don't know, and basically don't trust what O'R did to diagnose or what they saw--I know they want to sell a new alt. If it happened to me, I'd pull it and take it to my local auto-electric guru to bench test. Place was built in 1928 and test bench has meters the size of dinner plates--looks like a piece of Captain Nemo's submarine. I'd then do whatever he said (his grandfather founded the place).

If all they did was measure voltage at the battery, the diagnosis is worthless and you need to measure at the alt. Alt's don't heal themselves and then relapse, so I suspect a lame diagnosis. Any chance cables are bad? Bolt-on terminals (never good for long)? Pitting on cable insulation (means bad corrosion underneath)?

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I wonder how many know who Captain Nemo is. Let alone what his boat was called .

I really got to worry about the skills of people at auto zone or where ever testing things they for the most have no clue how they work.

Just what was the output??

chuckd83

I could only glance at the device, but it looked like voltage was good (>12V), but it also said "low output (<30A)."

offset442

you do own a volt meter right? when charging, voltage should be around 13.5 -14 on a healthy charging system, the battery should be over 12 if its not bad, its possible for batteries to fail in all sorts of ways i would strongly suspect the battery before anything else, also recheck the battery voltage after it has been sitting for 8 hours. i would expect to see it fall below 12v if its got an internal problem in one cell, this uasly makes for an under voltage condation that makes every connection in the starting chain suddenly not good enough
was the alternator tested in the car or on the bench?

frankly I have always had problems replaceing a battery with internal problems on warrenty because they still often times charge up to 12.5 volts and are there for declared still good and the problem is then often blamed on your charging system, I often have to resort to removing the acid from a few cells and replaceing it with tapwater enorder to force the stores test to fail so miserably that its undeniably bad, forcing a warrenty replacment that i am entitled to anyway, which solves my starting problems.

Bottomline never ever trust what a store says about a battery, they are morons and there testing proves nothing!

chuckd83

Replaced the alternator and still have the problem. Getting frustrated...

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

That happens when people are told to check things out .

When you changed alternators did you bring the battery up to a full charge first??

I would look closer at the connections you cleaned are they loose??

Is the battery light on after starting??

As was asked you do own a multimeter?? Cheaper then just replacing parts.

chuckd83

Yes, I have a multimeter. Check voltage at the battery terminals while running?

I also found multiple threads with the same symptoms elsewhere suggesting it is the starter solenoid contacts as you first suggested.

offset442

if its the starter contacts it would click but not start, the starter is not even clicking meaning that the solenoid plunger is not even moving which means 1 of 3 things, the plunger is sticking, the solenoid is open circuit, the control voltage is not there.

first verify that there is voltage to the starter solenoid when the key is turned to start, if there is voltage then pull the starter and rebuild/ replace, i always rebuild because its about 20 bux in parts vs 150 for a rebuilt.

I would like to revise my previous statement:

"Bottomline never ever trust what a store says about anything they test, they are morons and there testing proves nothing!"

chuckd83

I believe it clicks once.

chuckd83

I replaced the starter contacts and plunger. It seems to be starting on the first try...for now.

Something interesting though. When I pulled the starter, the rubber cover for the wire coming from the yoke was melted badly. I attached a picture. Any reason for this?