Nelsonmd

Dude, sorry to hear about your rusted through real axle housing. This is definitely a systemic problem with these things, I had the same thing, and I know about 8 other that have as well. It seems that the axle housing is very susceptible to rust. I replaced the entire rear axle I got from a guy on T4R.org (he bought a rolled 4runner for parts) and had it shipped from florida. Not too difficult, and now I have a perfectly clean axle.

Depending on how thin your housing has gotten, I know a couple guys have patched it with JB weld. I did it temporarily with JBweld putty which worked and I think 1 or 2 guys have permanently patched with JB weld. I was really nervous cleaning all the rust off thinking my wire brush attachement woudl uncover additional rust holes, fortunately I just had 2 small ones. Check out the link in my sig for what I did.

Can you load pics of the rear axle?

dixon700xx

I got some maf cleaner and a new grease fitting for the slip yoke on my rear driveshaft. some retard that put the exhaust on. welded it up too close to the driveshaft and it keeps wiping the grease fitting off so I tie-wired it away from the driveshaft. I replaced my rear gear lube with some cheaper gear lube. When I get it fixed I'm going to get some synthetic delvac for the rear and the front end. When I get a chance I'll try to get some pics, but I'll have to get on photobucket and downsize them even when using my cell phone the picture is too big... Also I'd be able to get an entire rear end. Is the rear end in a v6 2wd the same as the one in the 4wd? Because I know where a rolled 3rd gen 2wd 4runner is because it's the one I got my stock skid plates from because there was none on mine when I bought it. it's year is somewhere from a 99-02 and mine is a 98. Idk if there would be any difference. I need to go get the reciever hitch off it sometime here, even though I may end up having to weld it to mine because Mine originally had one and the jsut wacked the heads of the bolts off with a torch... also as soon as I buy another wire wheel for my grinder and get a day off work I'm going to clean it as best as I can see how bad it actually is than probably jb weld it then coat it in some fiberglass putty and that should atleast be a decent semipermanent fix... I pmed terminator to see if he'll get back to me about that woodruff key.

fotorunner

I had a 98 that acted like this. Found out that the shop that did the timing belt change didn’t get the bolt on the crank on tight enough, the bolt came loose and let pulley, balancer, ect move out. I escaped on that deal with just needing a new woodruff key. That did fix the problem, you need to take a look at that crank bolt and see if it looks like the pulley is where it should

Elton

thread merge ftw

dixon700xx

Hmm I guess I'm going to have to pull my crank pulley to probably find the keyway ˟˟˟˟ up. and hopefully that will fix it. it shouldn't be too hard to get the pulley off probably be able to just get in there with the impact and wack it off there. does anyone know the torque spec on it?

dixon700xx

Sorry, I'm just trying to figure out all of my problems, I probably should of made 2 seperate threads. I still might for the rear end.

Tracmstr

Idlew Control Motor i had same problem changed plugs, Changed wires,Cleaned throttle body, Changed fuel filter then bought ICM part number22270-62050 Toyota i had my mech. Bro do Diag. and scan and this fixed it u can try all the above which i did since i hav 150,000 on my truck i hav read several threads and every one say the same but no one ever recomends this and it works the part runs 181.00 but u can shop around very simple to install and iu am very anal about my truck running super so try this before u pay a mech. 55.00 an hour to tell u the same

Tracmstr

i bought mine from amazon i think it was 92.00 put in part number and it will giv u items

dixon700xx

Are you talking about the idle air control valve? because I'm pretty sure thats a problem with mine. I already changed plugs and wires with ngks new air cleaner new fuel filter new pcv valve. I also cleaned out my throttle body. I still want to try cleaning my maf with the maf cleaner I got. and I'm going to try pulling the iac off cleaning it up real well and running new vacumn lines to it. Also you said you found it for $92.00 on amazon? that's not too bad.

dixon700xx

http://www.amazon.com/OES-Genuine-Co...5025297&sr=8-1 here is the only one that came up when I searched for: 22270-62050

nvm I found the $92 one

dixon700xx

Ok, as of right now I have fixed nothing, but have a pretty good idea of what is wrong... for my whole rev limiter problem I was told it's the keyway on the crank pulley and it may possibly be loose. (Does anyone know the torque spec on this?) As for the little black box under my dash it's a remote start box. Which I'm going to see if I can find the keyless remotes for it, then I'll have to figure out how to program them to work the vip alarm also. Then last, but not least My Iac valve sounds like it is junk.(I still need to find time to remove it, clean it well, run new vacumn lines to it, and try it again, I also bought maf cleaner and need to clean my maf. Hopefully I can get by without buying an iac valve. I also still need to call the warranty people and see if an iac valve and my rusted rear end would be covered. Also I need to see if I can barrow a co-workers good code reader to see what it pulls. thats where I stand currently..