'96 3RZ-FE cracked head--looking for repair info
07-31-2008, 05:56 PM
#21
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You basically need to take the valve cover off and run a feeler gauge between the lifters and cam lobes(w/ a FSM) and check to see if they're w/in spec.
07-31-2008, 10:26 PM
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I had my head crack on my 96 3rz with only 160k miles. The fatal flaw is the 4 valve design. As mentioned the metal is thin between the valves and is prone to cracking and that is exactly where mine cracked.
I was really screwed due to the fact that my engine has a cap and rotor distributor. I called around and verified that the heads from cap and rotor 3rz ARE different from the heads for a distributorless 3rz. Because you are limited to heads from only the older 3rz engines it really doesn't make any sense to pull a used set of heads that may crack 1 week or 6 months down the line. I ended it going with a brand new Toyota head. It did cost a pretty penny but as I see it the rest of the motor should be solid and ready for another 150k plus (knock on wood).
I was really screwed due to the fact that my engine has a cap and rotor distributor. I called around and verified that the heads from cap and rotor 3rz ARE different from the heads for a distributorless 3rz. Because you are limited to heads from only the older 3rz engines it really doesn't make any sense to pull a used set of heads that may crack 1 week or 6 months down the line. I ended it going with a brand new Toyota head. It did cost a pretty penny but as I see it the rest of the motor should be solid and ready for another 150k plus (knock on wood).
08-01-2008, 09:15 AM
#23
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I had my head crack on my 96 3rz with only 160k miles. The fatal flaw is the 4 valve design. As mentioned the metal is thin between the valves and is prone to cracking and that is exactly where mine cracked.
I was really screwed due to the fact that my engine has a cap and rotor distributor. I called around and verified that the heads from cap and rotor 3rz ARE different from the heads for a distributorless 3rz. Because you are limited to heads from only the older 3rz engines it really doesn't make any sense to pull a used set of heads that may crack 1 week or 6 months down the line. I ended it going with a brand new Toyota head. It did cost a pretty penny but as I see it the rest of the motor should be solid and ready for another 150k plus (knock on wood).
I was really screwed due to the fact that my engine has a cap and rotor distributor. I called around and verified that the heads from cap and rotor 3rz ARE different from the heads for a distributorless 3rz. Because you are limited to heads from only the older 3rz engines it really doesn't make any sense to pull a used set of heads that may crack 1 week or 6 months down the line. I ended it going with a brand new Toyota head. It did cost a pretty penny but as I see it the rest of the motor should be solid and ready for another 150k plus (knock on wood).
08-01-2008, 11:55 AM
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well, I saw new aftermarket heads fully assembled with valves, cams, etc... for only $450-ish on eBay. So, my best bet is probably either to go with a used low mileage motor, or pull the block and make sure it is ok, and get one of these heads. Or, find someone parting out a truck/engine and get a used head.
08-02-2008, 11:29 AM
#25
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well, I saw new aftermarket heads fully assembled with valves, cams, etc... for only $450-ish on eBay. So, my best bet is probably either to go with a used low mileage motor, or pull the block and make sure it is ok, and get one of these heads. Or, find someone parting out a truck/engine and get a used head.
04-14-2015, 05:13 PM
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[QUOTE=wslytoy;50886761. If it does break, you'll be fine. The 2RZ, 3RZ, & 5VZ are all non-interfernce engines. Your valves will not make contact w/ the pistons if the chain/belt ever broke in one of these engines.[/QUOTE]
the 3rzfe motor IS AN INTERFERENCE MOTOR
the 3rzfe motor IS AN INTERFERENCE MOTOR
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