arielb1

I have a 94 4-runner. I have not changed the plugs in years. There is a plug on the passenger side closest to the firewall. I cannot get my hands down far enough to get to the plug.

Any ideas how to get the plug out? Do I have to take all the hoses off? I am concerned that I will not remember which hose goes where. Someone suggested I go through the wheel well. However, I tried this, no way I can even get close to it through the wheel well

Thank you and good karma to you.

AgRunner06

You have to do it by feel. Reach down there with your socket and extension and put in on the plug. Then attach that to your ratchet and take it out. When you reinstall the new plug, you will have to thread it in with your hand to get it started. You may want to try standing on something to reach in there better. Used anti-sieze on the threads.

That's really all I can suggest.

gwhayduke

Ditch AgRunner's idea...It is so unbelievably easy....

Remove the Carbon canister and bracket and it's wide open...It may take you 10 minutes longer but you won't cross thread the plug...A fairly common problem.

arielb1

Thanks both of you AgRunner and gwhayduke for your advise. thank you thank you for your time. I needed the help.

GWHayduke, 212k on the same engine? WOW ! ! ! I have 108K and I thought it was towards the end of the line for my truck. I guess I have many more miles to go.

Thanks again. I have more questions, but I will search for answers before posting.

gwhayduke

I believe, that if you drive the 3.0V6 in the RPM range it was made for, it'll last a lot longer. A lot of young bucks on this board claim that they have to redline the 3.0 to get any power. On mine anyway, there isn't any power after 4500. So most of the daily driving rpms are way below that. The 3.0 torque comes on low and the curve is fairly flat. Reving past the usable torque curve just puts stress on the rods and bearings and I believe, shortens the life of the engine.

I bought mine with 95K. Just take care of it, get some Mobil1 in the crankcase, front & rear diffs, transfer case and tranny, and you'll have it for quite a while. Just keep posting when you have questions...This is a good group.

arielb1

gwhayduke,

I took the evap off, but the airconditioner tubes are still in the way. I will try harder.

Meanwhile, can you please elaborate the Mobile1 advise. I just spent $60.00 to $70.00 doing my own transfer case, front and rear diffs, and tranny. The money I spent is just for the fluid. I did everything myself just from what I read and learned here on yotatech. Thanks to all contributors here.

First, you mean to say all you use is Mobile1 for all your fluids. Did I understand correctly? I thought fluids are specific for the purpose. What weight did you use?

Second, what is a crankcase? Is this where the regular engine oil sits? This is the amount that is measured by the dipstick...correct?

I realize I high jacked my own thread, but I am learning something new.

thank you.

gwhayduke

If I remember correctly, I used a 3/8" ratchet with a 6" extension and went in underneath the AC lines. I may have had to use a 1/2" ratchet for a little extra leverage. Be careful...You do not want to break the spark plug. The plug may be VERY difficult to remove, depending on how long it's been in there. DO NOT use anti-seize on the threads of the new plugs...just a little bit of oil...This info came from my dealer's service writer. Now you know why they charge $65 just for the labor on a plug change.

gwhayduke

1. Mobil1 makes a synthetic 75W-90 gear lube that has a really good reputation. Amsoil is also very good. If you've already swapped out your front diff, rear diff, transfer case and manual transmission with regular (dino) gear lube, don't worry. Leave it there. In a year or two, swap them out to a good quality synthetic (Mobil1 or Amsoil) and you'll probably gain about 1mpg...I did.

2. The crankcase is the pan attached to the bottom of your engine block that catches the oil as it drains from the engine, channels it toward your oil pump pickup so it can be pumped back into the passages that feed the rotating components.

arielb1

Got it! Thanks for educating me. I now know.

Why not use antiseize? I just applied it to my honda plugs today. I thought this was a good product to use.

I used stalube, but next time I will use Mobile. I had to stop working on the truck because of another issue. I will keep you posted on the spark plug.

Thanks for helping me.

Ariel