I think we might have overlooked a important maintence thing. the truck went in at about 90K for a timing belt,h2o pump,trans flush,plugs and belts. We asked twice about the valve adjustment and the service writer said the valves are automatically adjusted. I think not? shim and bucket type instead? feeling non confident in the dealer another independent Toyota shop said $600 + to adjust them but they never really need it. What is the truth on this? BTW its a 00 prerunner V6.

 

5VZ engines use shim style valves/buckets. The only way to adjust them is to take out the cams, and put in the correct shims for spacing.

However, the service writer is correct in them being auto-adjusting.

Are the valves chattering?

 

How could they possibly auto adjust?

 

I purchased 24 fairies to auto adjust mine...works well :/

 

Yeah thats what I wanna know, how do they auto adjust if you have to put the correct shim to get the correct clearance? Hoe come my motorcycle dosent auto adjust then, its the same setup.

 

As the cam and shim wear the valve face and the valve seat wear also.But eventually they will wear to ground zero.This is when the shim rides the base circle and actually floats the valve.Which means the valve doesn't close and will burn.

 

If you can slide a 0.008 feeler guage under all 24 it's all good.

 

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...lve+adjustment

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...lve+adjustment

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...lve+adjustment

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...lve+adjustment

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...lve+adjustment

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...lve+adjustment

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...lve+adjustment

 

Thank You, thats some great info.

 

Christian got you covered on that one.

 

There are very few Toyota engines that use hydrolic slack adjusters and the 5vz is not one of them.

You will find that dealer mechanics will do everything they can to talk you out of a valve adjustment, even lie to you. It is a nasty job, takes a long time and they don't get paided enough book time to make it worth their while so they don't want to do it.

I have two 5vz engines. Both needed a valve adjustment and I did it myself.

I have an 05 1gr that has two exhaust valves with excessive lash, just barely outside of spec. I think I am going to let that ride for a while.

There is only one why to know if your engine needs a valve adjustment or not. That is to pull the cam covers and physically check the lash with a feeler gauge. Chances are you are fine. If you find one or two that need adjustment get it taken care of.

The best time to adjust the valves if needed is in conjunction with a timing belt change. There are special tools that allow you to pluck out the shims, but it is so much easier to remove the cams if the timing belt is already off. Don't forget the service bolt on the exhaust cams or you will be sorry.

Gadget

 

Other than in an opinion stated here - I don't think you'll ever read a technical publication (or any Toyota documentation) that states these lifters are "self adjusting". If you change oil at regular intervals and never overheat the beast it is likely you will never need any adjustment. I just opened a 3.4 with 155k miles and the lash is within tolerances on all but one exhaust which was one thousandth over spec. In a properly maintained engine - metal never touches metal....everything rides on a thin film of oil. But its not a perfect world nor is there a perfect oil. Things will wear....eventually. Whether 150k or 500k miles....things wear out. But "normally" (many go 200k - 250k miles with originals) there is no need to replace the shims on these due to wear. If they wear enough to warrant the swap, then there is a reason for the change in dimensions. Reasons like: things got hot and the head warped or the head gasket has begun to fail, or oil wasn't changed and the motor sludged then cam bearings wore/ the cam wore/ the lifters wore. If any of those wore to the point you need to swap out lifters to correct the lash - then you'll be doing it again soon cause those parts will keep wearing. Once you wear past the case-hardened exterior, the softer metal underneath goes quickly. The shims are hard all the way through....brittle - not tough (hard = brittle, soft = tough). Put one on the floor and hit it with a hammer - you get metal dust.

 

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