Bawlzdeep

Jan 1 I think I have enough parts to start the swap thread now. I went and picked up the donor 98 5spd, t-case, front drive shaft, flywheel, master cyl, clutch pedal, new in box ECU, cross member and center console. Guy also threw in a starter and a few coil packs. Got all that for $400 and spent about $100 in gas. The wife's 04 Forester 2.5XT was gettin it, cruise maxed out at 90 and managed 18MPG. Still need STi turbo, intercooler, intake, exhaust and a COBB tune but that's for another forum.

Jan 3 Progress update- All that's left is 2 cooler lines, 6 bell housing bolts and drop the cross member. Taking my sweet time. The torque converter bolts were the worst part so far. Just hard to get at. So far so good.



Got a little bit done tonight, all the hard stuff is done. Cooler lines removed, trans is held to the motor with the two lowest bolts only and the cross member just has the outer bolts keeping it in. Ready to drop it tomorrow. Probably gonna lower it with my big floor jack with the assistance of a few ratchet straps hung between the frame. It's worked in the past.

If Toyota had put half the effort in designing the radiator as they did routing and securing the cooler lines then I wouldn't have this problem! Lines are bomb proof!

Still in no rush really. Have yet to order any parts. I am going with the F1 Racing clutch kit over Marlin Crawler. Marlin is out of stock on flywheels (F1 kit comes with one) and they can't put together a comp clutch for the 3.4 only their stage 1 HD 1200lb. I really like a 6 puck clutch and have had good results in the past from Ebay clutches in street/strip cars. I'll be getting with Marlin for the other little stuff like HD flywheel bolts, clutch fork boot and slave cyl. Gonna try to use off the shelf line from Advance Auto for the clutch line.

Should I replace some seals before I install the trans? It should have a front main seal or something around the input shaft right? Thant's all for now hope to have more tomorrow.

Bawlzdeep

Jan 7 Got the trans down last night. Went pretty smooth with my makeshift trans jack (plywood bolted to my jack) and only one set of hands.


Two plugs that I didn't see until the trans dropped a bit, no harm done.




Just removed the jack pad and bolted a piece of 1/2 ply to it, worked out perfect

Obviously the valve cover gaskets need to be replaced, but I didn't know it had gotten that bad! Looks like the crank is good and has the place for the pilot bearing. Gonna do the rear main while it's out too.

Bawlzdeep

I need the shift rubber shift boots and plate that screw down to the trans tunnel. I've found a few 2nd gen ones in good condition for around $45. These should work out right? Even the 3rd gen plates do NOT match the auto shifter holes so it's gonna be short self tapping screws FTW.

stockwell45

iTrader: (1)

Saw this over on T4R.com, definitely will be keeping an eye on this thread for future reference.

The shift boots should work, but the plate may be a little different. It would probably be easy to modify though.

Bawlzdeep

My thoughts exactly. The project is gonna be on pause for a minute. We got another baby girl due on the 11th so I'm gonna take a lil break on the $. But I'll be gettin all the back pay from my deployment then right after that comes tax return. If all goes to plan I'll be SAS'd on 37's in a couple months

justin_4runner

did u get the rear drive shaft, when i did the swap in my 91 the rear drive shaft was different lengths by 2 inchs, also the bolts for the flywheel will need to be longer too, after u get it in u will need to figure out how to do the wiring for the 4wd. i was able to figure it out but it took time, have fun and enjoy the 5 speed,

Bawlzdeep

The wiring is gonna be fun, this drive shaft should only be 1" short. A340F is 39.5" and R150F is 38.5" bell housing to drive flange.

Still need opinions on the F1 Racing stage 3 clutch on Ebay

BMcEL

4crawler makes driveshaft spacers if you have any length issues...cheaper than a new driveshaft.

Bawlzdeep

Never heard of a spacer for a drive shaft. I'm gonna hit that up real quick, thanks.

4Tard

Why would you do the easy part first? You can install 90% of the swap parts without touching the transmission, which is the easiest part for sure.

Bawlzdeep

I've been getting by for the past year just tightening the bolts down every oil change, but yeah, lots of RTV! Good to know about the ECM. CELs don't really bother me, had the P0420 forever, goes away and comes back, whatever.

Bawlzdeep

Got the new F1 Racing Stage 2 clutch mounted today. That's about it. I got a pressure washer to clean everything up real nice (sick of paying $2 in quarters). But wouldn't you know it, as soon as I get done spraying down the truck, I'm bawlzdeep pressure washing the back deck, drive way, fence..... building a crossfit gym in the back yard and refinishing our coffee table. Whatever, it looks way better now. I might tackle mounting the trans today, maybe.

Bawlzdeep

Iv'e been driving it for a couple days actually, kinda slacking on the update, sorry. But all is well, all gears shift smooth, clutch travel is perfect (pedal feel's the same as the Marlin). Still in the break in period so I haven't been hammering on it, just 500 miles of city driving.

The 5spd went up just fine. Same as the auto came down, custom trans jack and safety straps and a 325lb bench pressing beast! :rolleyes:

I started with the hardest stuff first pedal/master cyl. With the vacuum box thing out of the way (2 bolts 1 nut) I had plenty of room. Drew a template and marked the firewall for the center push rod hole. Drilled a small pilot hole for the hole saw then punched through with ease. Stuck the master cyl in and marked the mounting holes and then they were in. My line is 2 eight inch and one 12" section of 3/16 line. A 28" piece would be perfect but I was kinda in a hurry and that's what they had and no flaring tools. Oh well it works. I didn't have the 5spd brake pedal so I just cut mine in half. It had an inch of clearance but foot still tapped the break every once in a while.

Bawlzdeep

Then trans got soaked in Purple Power along with my engine and everything underneath. Finally got to put the pressure washer to good use! Cleanest this thing has EVER been!

Then fluid drain trans and T-case (pretty nasty and low) and refilled with 75-90 GL5. Throw out bearing installed and sticks pulled holes plugged.

Pressure plate and clutch in. You can see the line from the master cyl, that's one 12" and one 8". Waited to get the trans fully installed before bending the last section. Then cut the center section out of the shifter holes.


A few F-bombs later and it's in! Once it was close enough, I threaded the two long bolts in the short bolt spots to act as longer guide pins. By leaving the trans in 3rd gear I was able to turn the drive flange to get the input shaft and clutch splines to line up. Then it was simply a matter of pushing and bouncing till the remaining short bolt to short hole and long to long hole would catch. Tightened those in evenly and installed the other four in they're appropriate spots. Three of the short bolts can be used from the auto. The long ones I had to source from a Mom n Pop hardware store. Toyota didn't even show them on they're diagram and the retard had the nerve to tell me to go check my ˟˟˟˟˟ again. That's why I do all my own maintenance!:brianr:Stealership! I used the Tacoma cross member but I'm pretty sure they are interchangeable but the 5spd and auto mounts are way different.

The 4Runner auto rear drive shaft is an inch short and the front is an inch long. I got the front from the guy so it got fresh grease and went right in. I put my original rear shaft in and I'm comfortable with the slip length for now. With it at level I've got 2.5" of spline together. I'll probably get a 1" spacer here soon.



Fronts, Auto on bottom

Bawlzdeep

Then came the wiring mess. Not gonna lie, I was kinda scared but got some good help from Dantheman. Checked all the mechanical stuff over and it looked good, went to start and got nuthin. The clock dimmed but nuthin else. Suspected the starter, maybe got rusty from sitting for a couple days after pressure washing. After eye fu(king the threads some more I found some wiring info from Dan that helped a lot. Simply cut and splice two wires together in the main trans plug to get the starting circuit completed. This should go to the clutch switch for safety. The colors differ from year to year and model. Mine was whit/black strip and black/red stripe


So now it start and runs and drives. Awesome, now time to get 4wd working again. Of course the Limited has the ADD front diff which has to lock in electronically. Putting the t-case shifter into 4H and 4LO only goes as far as engaging the front drive shaft. No good since the front diff isn't locked in. Another simple fix of splicing a wire in. I stuck the auto's diff stick knob in there since it has the factory "on the fly" 4WD button. Just find the connector that went to the t-case, gray two wire. Dike off the connector and run a wire from the green/red stripe up to the shifter pink wire. Boom, 4WD works. If you just jump from wire to wire at that plug, 4WD will engage BUT the front diff will not disengage without restarting the truck or removing the jumper.




And the almost finishing touch. Still don't know what's going over this, might get a custom leather boot made. And yeah, that is most definitely duct tape!

Bawlzdeep

Now all that's left is reverse lights and cruise control. More simple wiring. Forgot to mention this part but this is all with the stock Automatic ECM and wiring harness still installed. Guess that might be a big deal:rolleyes: and all splices have heat shrink, a MUST! Tomorrow is my first day back to work in a month since deployment! Still gotta put new shoes in the rear and figure out why my rear diff lock isn't engaging. After that it's Camburg UCA's, new CV boots and 35" KM2's. SAS is on hold till I get a big bonus for cross training.

And a quick run to the playground to check drive shaft and that bad a$$ 3.8:1 1st gear over the 2.8:1 from the auto. She crawls now!

Bawlzdeep

Finally got around to wiring reverse lights and cruise control. Really simple. Gonna be harder to explain than it was to actually do.


So again using the main plug, cut the blak/yellow, white/red and red/yellow wires. Both cruise control and reverse light circuits require the black/yellow wire. Starting with the cruise control circuit, it requires a loop from the black/yellow to the clutch disengage switch to the white/red. I said screw the switch and ran a short jumper right at the plug. And it worked perfectly. Now for the reverse lights they need a loop from black/yellow to reverse switch on trans to the red/yellow.

Simply put, the black/yellow will have two wires spliced in, a loop straight to the white/red and another to the reverse switch. Leaving the red/yellow which goes to the other side of the reverse switch.

It all works and only took 30min. I also tossed in one of the original fog lamps as an additional reverse light. Still sorting out this rear diff lock issue.