95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

4th gen NE lift

Old Nov 30, 2004 | 09:11 AM
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4th gen NE lift

Before the lift...


The lift in progress. I think it took me 3hrs to get to this point where i finally got the front shock assembly out.


The dreaded spring compressors. I was initially wrenching the compressor with the assembly standing up. Later when I figured out that lying it flat was the better route, I was able to compress the springs a lot faster.


Front NE spacers


The rear spacers and bds shocks.


result of the lift. time to start tire shopping.
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 09:15 AM
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well done, time for new tires.
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 09:18 AM
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Measurements

Before lift
front: ~33.3''
rear: ~36

After lift
front: ~37.5''
rear: ~38.5''

i still have to do an alignment and it probably needs to settle some so the measurements will most likely fluctuate. if only i can get myself to wake up early enough to get an alignment, i'm forced to drive my sister's corolla for the next few days. i'm itching to feel what the effects of the lift has done to the truck.

also, thanks to anthony and tracy for helping me out. the NE crew are good people and will definitly work with you to get the job done. i only wish they would include a professional mechanic and air tools as part of the kit, but then for the price i paid, i cant complain .
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 11:32 AM
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Looks sweet, eh?

Thanx for the measurements. Maybe search for the lift result thread and post there as well once you have the wheel alignment done and everything ahs settled in.
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 11:52 AM
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By your measurements, you are still 1" sloped to the front. I thought NE had their kits level?
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 12:26 PM
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SacState - 1" in the front is level as far as the contours of the body go. When my truck was level (with the same measurements in front and rear) the frame itself sloped upward and it looked like it was sagging in the rear.

There is a difference between level as far as figures/numbers go, and level as far as what the contours of the body go.

Daystar and Revtek have a .5" difference, so the front would be 1.5" lower with their kits. (relatively) Keeping a 1 - 1.5" difference between front and rear height is what it takes to make things look level.
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 12:27 PM
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henry -- do you have any noises in the front? i had a lot of clunking, but it's getting better with each washer i put in.
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 12:33 PM
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p.s. i measured right before redoing mine this past weekend:

before:
front = ~ 37.87"
rear = ~ 39"

after (but before alignment):
front = ~ 38.5"
rear = ~ 40"
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by r0cky
henry -- do you have any noises in the front? i had a lot of clunking, but it's getting better with each washer i put in.
i've driven the truck for a total of two minutes since the lift has been in so i can't really tell you much. i did however hear some clunking in the rear. the noise hopefully is either something bouncing around in my trunk or the wrench that is still stuck inside the truck. if i can get myself to get up at 7am tomorrow morning, i'll go get an alignment done so i can test drive the bad boy.
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 01:28 PM
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there's a wrench stuck inside your truck? hehehe. if it makes you feel any better, i pretty much have an entire store's worth of bolts and nuts lost in random places like the engine compartment, etc. i know that's very bad, but i'm hoping some of them have fallen out along the way, or at least made themselves useful!!
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by r0cky
there's a wrench stuck inside your truck? hehehe. if it makes you feel any better, i pretty much have an entire store's worth of bolts and nuts lost in random places like the engine compartment, etc. i know that's very bad, but i'm hoping some of them have fallen out along the way, or at least made themselves useful!!
yea, the wrench slipped out of hands and fell somewhere between the frame and gas tank. you think i would have learned to be careful but when i started disassembling the shocks the rubber spacer fell in too! lets just hope the wrench stays in there and doesnt fall out while i'm on the freeway hehe.
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 02:05 PM
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That looks really good. Congratulations. Soon, soon, I'll do mine soon. And, btw, you took great pics of the process there too. Easy to see everything.
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 02:31 PM
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Originally Posted by chiefiji
yea, the wrench slipped out of hands and fell somewhere between the frame and gas tank. you think i would have learned to be careful but when i started disassembling the shocks the rubber spacer fell in too! lets just hope the wrench stays in there and doesnt fall out while i'm on the freeway hehe.
Drop the skid plate on the gas tank and get it. WHile you are doing that see where the hell the fuel filter on these are, and post some pics for us .
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 02:44 PM
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Oh, one other thing...

It doesn't look like you're using jack stands, is that right? Man, that would make me nervous to get under there with just the jack holding up the truck.
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 03:19 PM
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michael -- it does look like he's using jack stands ... look by the driver's side frame ...
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 04:46 PM
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- i did think about taking the gas skids off but one look at how many bolts there were and i said screw this, i'll just use my vise grips for now

- i will never crawl under a car with just a floor jack as the main support. waaaay too scary and not worth the risk.
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Old Nov 30, 2004 | 10:17 PM
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Okay, I see it now. Was looking elsewhere. Stupid me....
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Old Dec 1, 2004 | 05:18 AM
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Looks Good-I was wondering what size and brand of rubber you plan on getting. I found the the options of 17's was a bit slim. After I did the Revtek I was tempted by the 285's but thought they rub and force me to remove the mud flaps and do some minor cutting - not to mention the gearing and MPG issues. I lost a bit of quickness. 285's may be to much loss for me. Some just stuff as big as they can but from my experience driver skill will make up for that .5 inch or so diff and the components will thank you in the long run. I think NE may give a little more lift so it my not be a problem for you. Most here are for the Revos but I got the Goodyear ATS's (275/70/17). Good luck - anything is better than the stock rubber. Let us know what you settle on.

Last edited by Colemanfu; Dec 1, 2004 at 05:21 AM.
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Old Dec 1, 2004 | 10:20 AM
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i'm thinking about going one size up, 265/75/16. 285's would make my commute each day a pain in my wallet. i want the nitto terragrapplers, but if theres a good deal on the revo's i might jump on those. we'll see what happens in the next couple of months.

colemanfu, what made you choose the goodyears and how are they?

Last edited by chiefiji; Dec 1, 2004 at 10:26 AM.
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Old Dec 1, 2004 | 10:53 AM
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I fell ya on the size issue. I went mental with my last rig and did not plan on such radical mods or wheeling so I can live with not putting on huge rubber.

I had a set on my old 96 Ranger as well as a set of BFG ATKO's at one time. For the wheeling I did the Goodyears work best so, it depends on what you type of wheeling you plan on doing. I honestly lifted more for looks this time and the 3-4 trips a year to the Mt.'s. Goodyears's were much better on road when it was wet (could have been the light rear end). I found that the BFG would cake up much more and the ATS's had a wider aqua type tred that would clean off with just a bit of gas. Kind of a mild mud type tread with more space between. They also worked great in the sand but I could not tell as much of a diff. Both the Goodyear and the BFG are good tires. Goodyear's were a bit more $$$. I know most love the Revos and take them all over the place but I thought they looked a bit too street - start flaming now. Like most you stick with what you know. Our rigs look alot alike aside from the rims and I added a spoiler and Yack rack.
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