4runner won't stay running
#1
4runner won't stay running
I have 1999 4runner 3.4 (supercharged) 4wd that either won't stay running or won't start once it warms up. It is not throwing any codes.
Anyways, the other day I drove it about a 20 mile round trip without any issues. About an hour later I go to leave and then it craps out about 100 yards from my house. Crank, crank, nothing.
I'm thinking its the fuel pump so I sprayed some carb cleaner in the throttle body while my girlfriend cranks and it starts but dies when I quit spraying. Okay, fuel pump.
The 4runner sat for a few hours before my Brother could give me a tow home. I get it home and turn the key over and it starts to my surprise. It idles for a few minutes so I get in to take it for a drive and it craps out about 100' down my drive. Crank, Crank, nothing. Won't start without squirting gas in the throttle body so we tow it back to the garage.
The last couple days the scenario has been it starts up like normal in the morning while cold. It will idle normally for 3-5 minutes then it spudders and dies. Crank, crank, nothing...After an hour or so of the vehicle sitting it will start and run for 1-2 minutes and then die.
I checked under the hood and I don't see anything out of the ordinary. The efi fuse is good. I removed the fuel filter and connected a hose to each line and ran the vehicle that way but it does the same thing. With a hose connected to the fuel line and running into a gas can I had my GF crank the engine. When she cranked the motor the fuel pump pumped gas into the can. I had her turn the key off and turn it back on until the dash lights came on but no gas flowed. We done this several times and the gas flowed when cranked and nothing when the key was just turned over. I thought when you turned the key over the fuel pump came on and would prime the engine. Am I wrong?
I'm thinking the fuel pump is acting funky. What do you guys think?
Thanks
Anyways, the other day I drove it about a 20 mile round trip without any issues. About an hour later I go to leave and then it craps out about 100 yards from my house. Crank, crank, nothing.
I'm thinking its the fuel pump so I sprayed some carb cleaner in the throttle body while my girlfriend cranks and it starts but dies when I quit spraying. Okay, fuel pump.
The 4runner sat for a few hours before my Brother could give me a tow home. I get it home and turn the key over and it starts to my surprise. It idles for a few minutes so I get in to take it for a drive and it craps out about 100' down my drive. Crank, Crank, nothing. Won't start without squirting gas in the throttle body so we tow it back to the garage.
The last couple days the scenario has been it starts up like normal in the morning while cold. It will idle normally for 3-5 minutes then it spudders and dies. Crank, crank, nothing...After an hour or so of the vehicle sitting it will start and run for 1-2 minutes and then die.
I checked under the hood and I don't see anything out of the ordinary. The efi fuse is good. I removed the fuel filter and connected a hose to each line and ran the vehicle that way but it does the same thing. With a hose connected to the fuel line and running into a gas can I had my GF crank the engine. When she cranked the motor the fuel pump pumped gas into the can. I had her turn the key off and turn it back on until the dash lights came on but no gas flowed. We done this several times and the gas flowed when cranked and nothing when the key was just turned over. I thought when you turned the key over the fuel pump came on and would prime the engine. Am I wrong?
I'm thinking the fuel pump is acting funky. What do you guys think?
Thanks
#3
I did jump the +B and FP terminals. I think this bypasses the COR. The engine still sputtered out with the jumper in if I remember correctly. The jumper wasn't in when I was testing to see if the fuel pump would prime with the key over. The engine starts fine when cold.
#4
I just read a post on another forum that says the fuel pump won't pump unless the motor is cranked so I guess the fuel pump is fine unless its not delivering enough pressure to keep the vehicle running properly.
#5
Registered User
This is correct. Fuel pump only runs when starter is cranking or crank and cam sensors signal to ECU that engine is running on its own.
#7
Yes the MIL works. It comes on when the key is over and goes off when it starts. I will see if I can find my scanner and see if its shows anything and then give an update.
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#8
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
I would look at the battery terminals .
All the grounds .
If it is not tripping the Mil and it does seem to work.
All most seems electrical like your just shutting things off with the key.
Before the system voltage even gets to the ECM .
If no system voltage to the ecm it will quit and not start and not trip the mil.
It is one thing to just look and say it all looks good.
All the grounds .
If it is not tripping the Mil and it does seem to work.
All most seems electrical like your just shutting things off with the key.
Before the system voltage even gets to the ECM .
If no system voltage to the ecm it will quit and not start and not trip the mil.
It is one thing to just look and say it all looks good.
#10
I cleaned the terminals and installed a different battery and the same thing. The thing is I can squirt gas into the throttle body and keep it running as long as I give it the right amount of fuel.
#13
They guy in the other thread wasn't getting any codes either until he ran the truck for around 15 seconds on ether. Ended up being a loose wire in the wire connector that plugs into the ignitor. The only difference between his symptoms and mine is that I can run my 4runner for 1-3 minutes depending on how long the car has sat before the ECU cuts power to the injectors.
I might just order me a $20 used igniter off ebay and give that a try instead of searching around looking for shorts.
I might just order me a $20 used igniter off ebay and give that a try instead of searching around looking for shorts.
#16
Earlier I mentioned I bypassed the fuel filter with a hose clamped to each fuel line. It made no difference.
Anyways, I started it up this morning and it ran for a few minutes on its own then it started stumbling so I hit it with ether. I ran it for a solid minute on ether after that and it still did not throw a code. The can of ether ran out or else I would have ran it longer. Probably would have made no difference.
Anyways, I started it up this morning and it ran for a few minutes on its own then it started stumbling so I hit it with ether. I ran it for a solid minute on ether after that and it still did not throw a code. The can of ether ran out or else I would have ran it longer. Probably would have made no difference.
#17
#18
I found out what the issue was...............
It ended up being the MAF. Mass Air Flow Sensor.............
I don't know how it did it but it took down the whole truck without throwing a code.
I even unplugged the MAF in the earlier stages and it still would not start but would throw a code.
Anyways.......the MAF that was on it was an EL CHEAPO from Ebay. Basically a $20 Chinese MAF sensor.
I replaced the OEM Sensor about 8 months ago with this p.o.s. because it kept tripping the check light(the K&N filter did not help). A few weeks after I replaced the MAF the truck was running like crap and sucking gas so I did a MAJOR tune up. I replaced the knock sensors, fuel injectors, plugs, etc. I even replaced the oem intake manifold gasket which surprisingly was half eaten away with corrosion @ 180K miles. I believe that gasket kit was $130 @ Autozone. I was getting several codes before the tune up like 02 sensors, catalytic converter, misfire, knock.......The major tune up cleared all that up.
So I borrow my Stepdad's 02 Tacoma today. I pulled out his igniter and ECU and swapped it with mine. His ECU was not compatible with mine but none the less neither swap would clear up my issue. I had it in my mind I was going to have the truck towed to a repair shop tomorrow if none of this worked. Then I remembered I stumbled across my old MAF the day before and decided to go get it and install it even though I figured it wouldn't make a bit of difference. I put it in and started it up and stayed running. Thank You Jesus.......... It's been a long week and this stupid part fixed it. I put everything back together (which was a lot) and went and bought a 12 pack of Bud Light to celebrate.
It ended up being the MAF. Mass Air Flow Sensor.............
I don't know how it did it but it took down the whole truck without throwing a code.
I even unplugged the MAF in the earlier stages and it still would not start but would throw a code.
Anyways.......the MAF that was on it was an EL CHEAPO from Ebay. Basically a $20 Chinese MAF sensor.
I replaced the OEM Sensor about 8 months ago with this p.o.s. because it kept tripping the check light(the K&N filter did not help). A few weeks after I replaced the MAF the truck was running like crap and sucking gas so I did a MAJOR tune up. I replaced the knock sensors, fuel injectors, plugs, etc. I even replaced the oem intake manifold gasket which surprisingly was half eaten away with corrosion @ 180K miles. I believe that gasket kit was $130 @ Autozone. I was getting several codes before the tune up like 02 sensors, catalytic converter, misfire, knock.......The major tune up cleared all that up.
So I borrow my Stepdad's 02 Tacoma today. I pulled out his igniter and ECU and swapped it with mine. His ECU was not compatible with mine but none the less neither swap would clear up my issue. I had it in my mind I was going to have the truck towed to a repair shop tomorrow if none of this worked. Then I remembered I stumbled across my old MAF the day before and decided to go get it and install it even though I figured it wouldn't make a bit of difference. I put it in and started it up and stayed running. Thank You Jesus.......... It's been a long week and this stupid part fixed it. I put everything back together (which was a lot) and went and bought a 12 pack of Bud Light to celebrate.
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