4runner lifts tire size and back spacing
#22
Originally Posted by TX-BLKRUNNER
ok, so suggest the use of the search function, but don't beat him over the head with it, geez he is new just like me and by being rude and un-helpful intimidates new members from posting new threads or even returning to the site. thats just my opinion. revtek and toyteclifts.com both make a 3" spacer kit for about $300, the revtek is polyurethane and the toytec is aluminum, both will give you aprox 3" depending on spring rate and age of the coils and what not, but it will let clear the 285's
He has a point here!! This thread started about a simple question about lifting and tire size and has turned into a discussion about searching. This will discourage newbies from posting legitimate questions because they are afraid of getting harassed by you guys.
#23
Originally Posted by kwjkwjkwj
I have a 1998 4runner and I am looking at different lift options around 3". For running 285/75R16' s without any rub problems what have people been using for rims?
Ummmm..okay then. Welcome to Yotatech! Are you feelin the Love?
Not even going to get into the rest of this thread that has had almost nothing to do with your questions.
I will however say that you will ^! obviously find contradicting opinions on this stuff so take all that has been said and add what you think is creadible from a bit of searching.
285's are typically good to go with a 2.5" suspension lift and a 1" body lift. This should keep most of the verticle rubbing in check. 3" suspension lifts are not recomended without manual locking hubs due to increaseded CV joint/boot wear. 2.25-2.5" is the sweet spot.
The horizontal rubbing against the frame and/or the upper a-arms in the front is usually fixed by a lower numerical #of backspacing or bolt on spacers. Stock BS I think is 4.5" and many have gone to a 4" BS to fix the rubbing. 16x8 with a 4" BS is a typical rim upgrade for 285's. Although as stated above some run 285's on stock 16x7 rims and do fine. It is my thinking that with tires aired down to around 12 psi while wheeling the stock rims may cause more rubbing on the a-arms/frame.
As with any mod'ing you may have to do some misc trimming and minor pounding to make it work best at full flex.
#25
Thanks ecchamberlin. I wasn't trying to start a " Forum Riot" I actually have done quite alot of research already. I just wanted to hear from a few people what they thought were the best ideas. Anyway thanks for the info. By the way do you know a good source for a set of locking hubs.
#27
Originally Posted by kwjkwjkwj
By the way do you know a good source for a set of locking hubs.
downey makes a 'kit' too. also very pricey.
the best solution is to find parts from a manual hub tacoma (either in a junkyard or on TTORA). its not a cheap or easy mod, and isn't 'necessary' unless you wheel a lot. just don't go above 3" in the front.
reference for 'junkyard swap': http://sonoransteel.com/junk_yard_manual_hubs.html
using junkyard parts, the final cost will likely be around $400-500
#29
back on topic, i have 265/70r17's and rub in the front, right on the fender flair piece that is on the bumper, i am lifted too, 2 ish in the front. I have GX470 rims, here are the specs:
width = 218 mm (7.5")
centerline = 109 mm (4.3")
backspacing = 139 mm (5.5")
offset = 30 mm (1.2")
and I have 1.5" bolt on wheel spacers to make it clear. so basically my backspacing would be 4" on a 7.5" wide wheel.
width = 218 mm (7.5")
centerline = 109 mm (4.3")
backspacing = 139 mm (5.5")
offset = 30 mm (1.2")
and I have 1.5" bolt on wheel spacers to make it clear. so basically my backspacing would be 4" on a 7.5" wide wheel.
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FS[MidWest]: 1995 4Runner 5vz 4x4
vasinvictor
Vehicles - Trailers (Complete)
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Jan 20, 2016 12:39 PM



That is a totally different thread.

