95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

4Runner Junkyards

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Old Feb 24, 2004 | 01:19 PM
  #21  
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From: Tampa, FL
in that case I would definitely take it in to yota and have them warranty it... Your diff hasnt been opened before has it??? (ie. gears???)
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Old Feb 25, 2004 | 09:40 AM
  #22  
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No the diff has never been opened. I'll probalby end up taking it to the dealership to see what they can find on it. Hopefully I'll be able to get it fixed. I've had nothing but troubles with this e-locker.
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Old Feb 25, 2004 | 12:42 PM
  #23  
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Hey Data,
If you do decide to take it into the stealership, can you post back here with the results? I have a similiar problem with my motor getting power, but the e-locker just won't engage, no matter what I try (my neighbors must think I'm nuts always driving in "S" patterns and backing up and forward trying to get the thing to engage!)

Thanks!

E
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Old Feb 26, 2004 | 06:53 PM
  #24  
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Sure thing. Have you tested the connection in the rear with a multimeter? Mine gets power all the way back, so I'm assuming its the motor. I could be wrong though. I'll keep you updated.
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Old Feb 27, 2004 | 06:17 AM
  #25  
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I haven't actually put a multi-meter on it yet, but I can definitely hear the motor run when I have someone else push the lock button on the dash. My next step when I get some free time is to pull the locker open and just make sure it's not full of crap. I bought the truck in Boston, so there's a pretty good chance something could be rusted inside.

E
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Old Feb 27, 2004 | 06:26 AM
  #26  
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I believe there is just two bolts holding it in. Shouldn't be a problem taking it off. Let me know if you find anything..
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Old Feb 27, 2004 | 06:33 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by data
Sure thing. Have you tested the connection in the rear with a multimeter? Mine gets power all the way back, so I'm assuming its the motor. I could be wrong though. I'll keep you updated.
Are you getting enough amps to engage the motor? You can put voltage there and read it but if the amps aren't enough it won't have enough a$$ to move anything. Check you wiring. If you can, use cheater wires directly from the battery to the motor (assuming it is a 12VDC motor circuit)and see if it will pull in that way. If it does engage then something is wrong with the wiring, possibly an insufficiant ground. If it doesn't engage than it is the motor.

Also try to use a junkyard poller site like uneedapart.com or others can be found by doing a google search. Type in the info for the part you need and it will send the request to hundreds of jukyards for you. I have had good luck with that method. You can also e-mail a member here TOR (Todd) for new parts he works at a dealer and is a great resource.
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Old Mar 8, 2004 | 12:53 PM
  #28  
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From: Boulder, CO
E-Locker is Fixed!

I finally got a chance to take a look at my locker this weekend and got everything put back together and working. As it turns out, it did seem like it was a corrosion problem.

The electric motor turns a worm gear which turns a spring which in turn spins a gear that engages and disengages the locker. The little gear that fits into the differential was the one that was seized. After taking everything apart and freeing up the little gear I put it back together and it worked! It took me a few tries to get everything lined up correctly and synched with the locker switch but it eventually all went back together correclty.

I think what caused it to become so corroded inside was what looked like trapped saltwater between the motor housing and the differential. The motor housing was so corroded that it ate completely through the metal. I tried to patch up the hole as best I could with some silicone sealant, but we'll have to see how long it holds up.



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